Yeah but Ive seen enough Ford V that snapped the maincap out of the crankcase. They laser cut 10mm steel sump braces that solve it. I know I had one done for a 2.8 cologne.Then the heads lift and break or bearing spin or something.
Just sent a message to the supplier of this super casting...
Yes, the standard boxer is iron block no liners. sleeves are the key, I'd come to that conclusion myself. Bloody strong thick steel ones.
After Ive encased the block with aluminium alloy using the multi metal cating method, we can machine it for the sleeves we want.
My plan is to make mould...
yeah, with with V engines but this is a Boxer, where everything is inline. The problem here is the piston and rod wanting to go sideways out of the engine rather than straight because at a certain load, going side ways, through the thin iron block is the path of least resistance.
Its inclined...
I read a bit of the article and its quite involved to calculate things. Trial and error, trying different types of flux with moten scrap aluminum on cast iron junk and then hammer testing might be the way to find the trick to it.
Tempted to add enough to allow a bigger bore, while I'm at it...
Nobody is trying to fix a broken engine, I think you got wrong end of the stick. We know what causes these engines to fail in the end and unsurprisingly, its the only bit you can't swap for better uprated part, the block.
They are designed for 130 bhp. We tune them for 200 plus. Thats the cause...
This would be very convenient because my furnace is only meant for aluminium and precious metals. Ive got loads of junk cast iron I can experiment pouring it on too. A thick layer of that might work and because its light I could use more. The lower temps should avoid heat stressing the iron...
The rods dont break, the block does. Its a boxer, the pistons come together, horizontally opposed. under enough load, something goes sideways, through the block. The rods survive it but the block doesn't. Mabe a brace around the sump flange plasma cut from 10mm steel or something would add...
Flex in the crank? maybe. Ill have to ask him if they put rods through the block with with steel cranks or factory cranks. Thanks for raising that question.
That might be what i have to try instead. Its not a broken thing that will depend entirely on the repair, rather any additional strength is a bonus.
I could use the methods and things you taught to add fillets and just build it up. As long as it not all bitty and porous it will do. I may consult...
Its to reinforce an engine block prone to putting rods through the sides. The block is thin there.
Any additional stength is worth having even if its not ideal.
Ok fusion is out, fair enough but can I get a solid molecular bond like with galvanising, flame spraying, brasing and soldering? what if I had the thing bras plated first? like chroming? just asking!
Many of you have added to iron with welding and brazing so can anyone tell me if it would be possible to
cast additional molten iron around an existing cast iron object and have a bond or fusion rather than just encasement?
I this where surface prep, preheating the object comes in? flux? ideas...
John, Ive got some Facom adjustable grips and know how good their tools are - I would take them over anything by snap off or anything. Just can't afford them lol
pdg, I'm with you and I think I would prefer to feel the pressure I'm applying.
Im looking at these beauties but wondered if they're crap. Ones that look descent cost 5 times as much so I'm hoping for some guidance, thanks
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Exhaust-Pipe-Cutter-35-64mm-739592-/391308163464?hash=item5b1bc8b988:g:8sIAAOSw5VFWNJkl
and...