My bester just broke after about a year. Loved it while it was working. I was worried about the 2 year warranty. Apparently, even that is pretty useless. Turned the thing on a few weeks ago and it popped.
Turns out, after shipping it at my expense for warranty, due to it being 'moisture damage'...
I brushed on some rustbuster em121 (I believe it's repackaged Jotun Smartpack) on some parts I wouldn't have access to.
I was a bit worried about adhesion and wanted to test it out before using it for the full underside. All the Jotun spec sheets specify it should be used on a blasted surface...
Going really well so far. Feel much more in control. Still blow a few holes here and there, but I understand what I did wrong when it happens and can correct it, before I never felt in control. This thing puts the metal where I point it, it's not a porous mess, it's only a bit messy when I mess...
Went with the Lincoln in the end, I preferred the idea of being able to write settings down and go back to them. Although I thought it also had an amps readout when arcing - turns out that's only when you're stick welding.
My decision was ultimately - better display and finer controls are going...
I'm leaning a similar direction. I like the sound of the warranty and support for Rtech, also the machine is specked to go down to 25A MIG, whereas the bester is 30A. Though I'll likely only use that if I happen to do any work on a modern car.
Also, with the dial, I'm curious if they go lower...
Also curious how the Oxford performs on thinner metal. This thread was an interesting read (Post in thread 'My New Oxford Migmaker 240-1' https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/my-new-oxford-migmaker-240-1.107210/post-1737410).
The wire feed being inconsistent for thin metal was kind of...
Have you tried an inverter machine? I did look at the Oxford, not a fan of the interface but I've seen lots of people recommend it. £594 is at the top end of my budget though.
The geared wire feed looks good on it though!
I'm restoring a classic car. I bought a Clarke 151EN, but I had real trouble with the wire feed. Ended up replacing the feed and getting it working and did manage some welding with it but I'd rather have a machine I've got more confidence in (Am I doing a bad job/got things set up wrong or is it...
I did stumble upon this being mentioned as a great product when researching. I understand it's similar to waxoil or dinitrol, basically a treatment I'd spray into the box sections every few years or so. Which I think I'll definitely be doing (and while I have access, painting some on).
But...
I'm cutting out lots of rusty old bits of sill. Most of the holes were where water could sit in the base of the sill, so I'm replacing that metal (and what I had to cut off to get to it) with nice new repair panels.
I now have some minor access to interior sections of the car, and parts of the...
I did notice the end of the wire had a ball at the end sometimes!
Can't go out to get new gas right this moment, so thought I'd try to increase the wire speed (I had to replace the wire feed motor so the recommended settings are all out of the window) and seemed to get much, much better...
Still just as sooty with higher pressure.
Will get a refill and try again. Presumably the regulator is fine and the bottle is near empty. I guess my assumption that the flow (?) reading on the torch output was the only thing that matters was wrong, and the bottle pressure is important too...
Didn't seem to leak at 20 (well, held pressure when everything was off), gave it more pressure, and it definitely started leaking! Will try get some hose clamps on there and try with higher pressure.
I'm inside a garage with no breeze.
If none of that works, I'll try get the bottle refilled...
Unless I'm reading the regulator incorrectly. I think the second dial shows tank pressure? It may have broken (when I bought it it had pressure, driving home it had none, but it still shows pressure when using the torch)
Here's is what it looks like with the trigger depressed, turning the dial...
Trying my hand at thicker steel to try learn, after having trouble with the thinner stiff.
Not sure my setup is right though. Got a Clarke 151En, set to the highest setting (0.6 wire).
However, everything I read says I need to get a "bacon sizzling like sound".
I'm just getting a hum. Had...
No problem, I'll get some gas (or maybe use what little I have left in a bottle), swap the leads and wire, and give it another go. I'll also try with some thicker metal to start off, don't have much thick metal and plan on doing mostly work on cars so I'll probably not be doing much welding in...