Thank you all for the wisdom as ever. I have repairs to do on the A posts and B posts (both sides) as well as the bulkhead top and bottom. These I can do without a problem with the car the correct way up and on the scissor lift to give me a little height.
I believe the chassis is solid, I have...
All,
A question for the hive mind! I have asked the group specific to my car and the response was inconclusive.
I have a 1964 Rover P4 110. I bought it in 2003 as my retirement project (planning ahead) and that day is now approaching. It has been dry stored with a Triumph Stag (that has now...
In summary, my wander lead bodge (as that is what it is) achieves what I want. It allows me to heat up bolts on the Rover P4 car I'm restoring. It hasn't affected the main unit is any significant way. Yes it does take more current, the leads get a tad toasty after a while, but this is for a...
In my apprenticeship at Westinghouse Brake and Signal Co Limited I did spend some time in the Rectifier Department where thy made plating sets - 3 phase, 10vdC and several thousand amps. We were playing with Litz wire for something to do with that, as well as copper tube. I can't remember the...
I will be honest, I was looking at building one, as I had been told the (cheap) ones on eBay have a short life and the better ones are way out my financial reach (for a hobby). I was lucky, surfing FB marketplace and bought mine from the estate of a deceased engineer. His son was selling it...
You are absolutely correct, my voltage reads at around 52-53v. What do I need to do to programme it lower? I like the idea of prolonging the life of the unit!
Sorry for the delay, this is my hobby and the day job among other things have given me little time.
I have paralleled off the outputs to a couple of sockets to give me the "wander leads" these are not water cooled (more later). I have used some copper from a armoured cable to create two smaller...
My poor explanation - that large coil was always going to stay in circuit. The wander lead was going to be in parallel and switched. I note what you say about switches and dinse connection will be the way to go.
Just had a look at my set up. The output clamps to the copper pipe, so no strain on a pcb. What I think I will do is attach two more wires onto those pipes to another output through a high current double pole switch. That will have a couple of leads of around 1.5m that will terminate in a much...
I did an electrical and electronics degree back in the 70s! Feel free to correct me ! As I remember a "tank circuit" is a resonant circuit with a capacitor and induction in parallel. I am assuming what is being said is that if you increase the length of the leads you introduce additional...
So, it looks like I have bought something that is almost, but not quite what I want! (As usual with me!)
It is possible to put flying leads on to make it portable, that is good, however like yours, the coils is quite large and some of my bolts are in tight areas and quite small - what do you...
To almost close this out (from my view). As ever, thanks for all the advice, this is a great forum. I couldn't afford a professional version (way out of my reach), I would struggle to justify a Draper/Machine Mart type and the eBay Chinese ones seem to be ones to avoid. This left a "home build"...
This was the sort of thing I was looking at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374603437226?chn=ps&_ul=GB the largest bolts will be 18mm at the most, I guess a majority 13mm and access is the key. It's for hobby use, so it won't be thrashed daily. I appreciate the concept of buying the separate parts...
I have just started my next project a 1964 Rover P4 110. I bought it in 2003 and it was last on the road in 1985. As an older car, it has a chassis and bolted panels. I want to remove as many panels as possible to have a good look at the chassis and make sure that is sound before I start to put...
Many thanks as ever for the suggestions. The Screwfix option it appears can damage aluminium, Jizer seems popular but at £28 for 5L it's not cheap, but people do seem to use it for years... It's a Nu Tool parts washer and I'm not sure of the capacity. I'll have to see how much I need.
Happy New...
The Stag is sold, so the P4 110 now has the garage to itself and I'm getting stuff sorted now there is room. I have a parts washer that I can now get to, what fluid do people use?
I have a smaller one at home and I've used paraffin, it seems to do the job, but is there anything better?
Cheers...
I haven't got that far yet! I don't want to order the wrong die and waste money. When I lived in Ivybridge, I'd visit their shop when they were in Dartmouth.
Peter