Hey folks... Got a Frimar Sureweld 300 DC TIG set. I need to buy a torch for it but I can't work out what connector I need? Seems to have a dinse plug and some sort of QR (looks the same as the water cooler connector for a MIG torch) I assume this is the gas. I'm guessing the blue plug is for...
Looks like you need to slow down your travel speed & wire feed rates. Focus on getting a nice puddle and then slowly dragging that across the joint. Forget about joining pieces of steel together until you can get a nice looking bead on a flat piece of steel.
Superficially it doesn't look too bad. I'm assuming your using bare wire with an inert gas - in which case you should push the arc as it'll give better penetration. The toes look a little cold and I would suspect penetration isn't as good as it could be, but you'd need to cut a section out to...
I use 1mm wire on 3mm all the time.
But, as an idea of something to try....I wonder if you could get .6mm wire into spray transfer on 3mm? Might speed the job up if it's not positional.
Just a thought.
Oli.
As stated, I bought the ESAB Rogue 180pro in the end. Only done a little bit with it so far but it's an impressive machine for the money. So far so good.
To everyone saying Kempi... I'd loved to of tried one, but the cheapest I could find is £389+VAT so they don't fit into the £300 title. They're a similar price to the Lorch and I'm afraid my money would be going that way everytime.
In the end, I ordered an ESAB Rogue 180 Pro. Not had an ESAB machine before so will be interesting to try, but it was the 3 year warranty that clinched it in the end.... Thanks all, I'll let you know what it's like when I take delivery.
Oh, should've said...230V only is ok. Obviously being able to run off a generator and 110V is an advantage but probably not anything I'll ever do in honesty.
So, in the market for something small and light. Everything else in the workshop is Lorch. Obviously I'd love one of them but even the cheapest is £500+VAT. This is really on a bit of a whim but I have quite a few jobs to do around the place and carting either the TIG or MIG around is a pest. I...
To me the draft control shouldn't really have anything to do with it... That diverter valve basically tees out there hydraulics just in front of the lift cylinder. So in my mind the position lever should simply be loader up and down. But if you do that without moving the draft lever the thing...
Yeah, so your answer is basically what I already knew (from using more modern stuff) but I was meaning what is actually happening in the hydraulics (keeping in mind that there is nothing attached to the linkage). I got response on one of those other forums which does work but I still can't...
Right, Monday update.
Went to change the hydraulic filter this afternoon. Took the old one off, pre-filled the new one then realised it had the wrong threads on it! So retrieved the old one and put it back on.
After messing about with the ASC valve a little and standing on the arms I found...
So I was thinking a bit more about this. Is it weird that the linkage arms now won't drop at all? Even when standing on them? I wonder if something has happened in the control linkage....
Just read the manual and there is a little section that says you should use the draft control lever in the...
Hi, yes that's just the axle. No other filters. The manuals are pretty ambiguous about pumps. There's is definitely a gear driven one off the engine block. Some of them seem like they have another internal one for the lift but I can't really tell where that would be Inn honesty.
I tried messing...
Thanks Bob... That is actually not a bad point. I wonder if the reverse off the ramp has taken it below the pickup. I think I've got a replacement filter here so will pre-fill it and chuck it on in the hope that it solves the problem.