Noted,
what do you recommend as an anti-corrosion primer over bare steel?
90% zinc needs a rough surface for shear resistance, is it workable?
Until now I have only used it for "leaving jobs until the next free moment/week" for which it works great, cleans off easily (!) and at least...
RX8 sills are hydroformed, re lack of B pillar.
Quite a few USA 4x4 use hydroformed subframes.
Hydroforming is lighter & stronger than a conventional pressed & spot welded construction, so it will probably get a lot more attention re auto makers.
BondaPrimer-w/Zinc + ProXL ProBuild Super Build Primer + Cellulose...
Go #1...
- I think I only let the BondaPrimer go off overnight, then primer/cell.
- Next morning the cellulose was cracked & BondaPrimer had lifted.
Go #2...
- Sanded back to bare metal, clean-n-strip, P180.
-...
Weird, that Brush On sealer (as grey photo, underside & flakes on floor)...
- Turns rigid, falls off as crumbling flakes, breaks up in your hand
- Zero adherence to Zintec, plain grey primer, 90% zinc, Bonda Primer
- Dissolves pretty much everything it touches
Red photo is the replaced...
The old problem of "get all from one supplier re known compatibility".
Emailed the supplier to see what primer they recommend.
Going back to Final Systems Seal.
- I suspect it might work with Bondaprimer
Alternative is Sikaflex 291i.
- Simple 100ml squeeze tube, thin bead between...
No, no good.
Sealer is Wayside Adhesives Brush On Seam Sealer. I suspect all do similar.
90% Zinc - Sealer dissolves on contact back to bare steel, useless.
Bondaprimer - Sealer softens it, then shrinks exposing bare steel, useless.
As you say 2pk zinc epoxy primer is the solution...
Ah, ok, no-one seemed to have mentioned it in the threads I read.
Yesterday...
- stripped the area to bare metal, re-applied Bondaprimer.
Today...
- re-applied Brushable Seam Sealer in a thin one-brush-movement coat.
Letting that thin coat goes off seems to solve the problem.
I can...
Is brushable seam sealer a solvent for 90% Zinc Primer & Bondaprimer?
Should I be painting something else over the primers before seam sealer?
History...
- Perfect steel with a) acid-etch or b) clean-n-stripped bright
- a) 1 day cured Bondaprimer
- b) 1 week cured Bondaprimer
- c) 2 week...
Got #2 done... lots of plug welds...
Not particularly pretty, but functional and far better than before.
Left of the underside photo, strut turret base.
- On the underside you can see the chunky seam welded patch.
- On the topside nothing is visible but smooth metal
- Got a Draper...
Car body metal comes in various flavours, sadly 0.7mm gets used in the least structural areas ...BUT... those most susceptible to corrosion. Classic being wheel arches and the dreaded metal work above the plastic wheel arch tray in the front wing which lets water & mud & salt in on top usually...
Backing #1, 0.8mm of the M8-studs-to-bottom-frame-rail piece.
- Plug welded, backed off bolts to check absolutely perfectly tight all over.
- Zintec, with zinc spray, with galvafroid between the sheets.
Backing #2, 0.8mm to do tomorrow on top.
Thanks, the welds are a bit bumpy - will level them uniform at least.
Last bit...
- "Drop-to-Bottom" reinforcement, from M8 studs to frame rail.
- Concave, twist, curve - and lots of them.
Ok, single 1.5mm... or single 1.2mm...
Failed - the plug welds would be spanning air, just too...
Could not find a time machine, but after many minutes...
Rusty spot weld base - replaced by 1.2mm Zintec.
Complex #1 & #2 pieces (0.7mm each) - replaced by 1.5mm Zintec which required slotting to handle both shrinkage and a lot of spiral twist the photo hides. Then backing anvil & hammer to...
Ugh... talk about complicated shapes.
Top & Bottom part shaped & Lincoln Innershield gasless welded.
- Seam welded 0.52-0.70mm car body to 0.8mm patches
- Plug welds at the frame rail curve (topside) perfectly tight using M5 bolts
Some welds need a light grind just to tidy, not taking...
Oh... what a pig.
It is not 0.8mm, it was 0.7mm...
... except on the RHS where the "duck-bill-stretch" had made it **0.52mm**.
I am unsure whether 0.7mm is cheaper on press-tonnage or easier re stretch over 0.8mm? I really wish they would use thinner steel for all the internal brackets...
Picked up a cheater lens, Ebay UK, £9, 2.50x.
It can be fitted by stick pads if necessary - will be interesting to see how good it is, could really make a big difference for me.
Ah, a cheater lens would be great.
I did think about getting an optician to do a magnified prescription for me, ordering from one of the online spectacle suppliers for those difficult jobs.
A case of choosing the battle re cutting differently if necessary, more work but easier work so to...
I have corrected vision, but a large auto-darkening helmet makes it hard to get close enough to focus on the fine line between two panels.
Welding 0.8mm patch to 0.7mm wheel arch (0.62mm in places re stretched) was hard. Had to use multiple tacks to build up weld thickness, then grind most of...
Well, all cleaned up.
The running-left plate.
The seam on the left DOES have corrosion in it, not quite brown, not quite surface rust. Topside the seam has a running crack with a brown stain and is on a water route. The sealer is getting old in a few high places in the engine bay and either...
Well, all off pretty much. Run out of consumables.
There are two dark brown patches re running-down-plate & running-left-plate, so looks like it will be a bigger hole soon.
Interestingly the area is a lot flatter than it looks, there are two distinct defined bends just visible right...