Made a couple of cuts on some 7 x 6 inch railway track at the weekend, 9" grinder with 1.9mm flexovit blade did a very nice job in about 15 mins for each cut (including one or 2 breaks to get the feeling back into my fingers as no lock on button) only lost about an inch off of the blade after...
Just a heads up on these for anyone that has not noticed but they are quite flammable! How do I know?
Was chopping up some full size rail track this morning with 9 inch grinder and noticed that the trousers felt very thermal :)
They do look like cotton but outer material is 65% poly 35% cotton...
https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/category/resins
Depends what you need it for but casting resin is cheaper, west systems is the best, though I would tend to use a core sandwich material in it to bulk it out and add strength and save on cost of resin for a block of that size.
Casting resin...
I noticed that and did some searching and it seems most manufacturers recommend not using any coated bits on aluminium because they get smeared with a layer of the ally reducing cutting performance and recommend only uncoated drill bits for it?
+1
Done a few pennies with FFX over the years, usually end up there when buying the expensive bits because of price and shipping and their tool show is worth a visit if your fairly local and want to have a look at things in the flesh and get a discount on something specific. No problem getting...
If the merc subframes are not removeable, see if you can find some scrap merc seat frames and adapt them to the TT base. That way you could use the original mounting points without a lot of new measuring and fabrication.
The steps we use on the back of our hgv trailers are very simple things, look quite easy to replicate and adapt to whatever you need, like wider folding steps etc. like these
Keep us updated on progress. I've got to do the same corner on my son's 1970 bug sometime soon. Will be studying forums like volkzone and samba for tips. Some of the repair panels leave a lot to be desired tho, may just bend some decent steel to shape for some bits instead, that heater closing...
Use Brundles fairly often, only charge £1 a cut anyway to make it easy to transport. You could buy 6 or 7 metre lengths take what you want and stick the rest on ebay and make a profit on it quite easily if you could be arsed
If you are replacing 2 whole sills and originality isnt a big problem then just finding some sills with the right width/ depth roughly would be a hell of a lot easier than fabing up some from scratch. As long as both sides match then the actual profile of the originals isn't a big deal
Came across this on youtube, and watched it completely stunned, she would put a lot of us to shame, take a look at some of the other vids on her channel including mig welding tutorials!
Definitely has a bright future I think.
As said above, ignore wire speed settings in the manual and play with it to get it spot on, gentle touches on the knob, if the recommended setting is say, 5, then mine is usually about 2 ish, yours may be slightly different.