My first proper cast ally repair.
Driveshaft housing off a planer thicknesser that spontaneously disassembled itself last night when a drive chain let go.
2mm cast Chinese ally, seems ok to weld, not great but better than I was expecting. Not as dirty as I was expecting at least.
1.6mm red...
Either will work. I rough sharpen on an oxide wheel then polish the cone on an old CBN wheel which removes all the grinding marks and leaves it shiny. I'm not very good at TIG so the electrode gets dipped frequently.
The biggest difference you'll find is the cost. Diamond wheels are available...
Horrible messy soft wheels, yes they will do the job but you'll cut trenches innthem quicker than standard alumina wheels which also do the job quite adequately. The problem is if you want a single wheel to do tungstens and that will stay relatively flat for other purposes, neither wheel are a...
It's best to use a sharpening stone dedicated to tungsten electrodes, as contamination can adversely affect TIG welds, so best get into good habits, especially for aerospace. I use a green grit (silicon carbide) wheel for the job, on a mandrel, in a battery or mains hand drill, set to high...
they are looking better.
the high spots can be avoided by 'blending' the pool with the torch as the arc dies off, or adding less filler on the last dab, then just tapping a little bit in just befor it fully solidifies.
for 5mm youd really want about 200+amps and a 2.4 or even a 3.2mm tungsten...
I cleaned up some scrap mild steel which is 5 mm thick. Once I was happy with my settings I then tried adjusting my helmets brightness half an increment at a time for each new weld start and got it to a point where I could see the tip much more clearly! I think I was being too impatient...
Hi, new to the forum, but have been lurking on the sidelines for sometime. I purchased a Paton Standard 160 Mig welder 3 years ago and have been very happy with it. After much deliberation I’ve recently purchased a Paton ProTig 200ac/dc, it’s probably overkill for what I’ll be using it for, but...
Spent an hour in the shop in the evening
And moved things into the little cabinet I've bought a month or so ago.
In the top drawer we have left to right
Combination square, a ruler, dial indicator, the famous free bit of HDPE/PTFE/polyamide or ethalite, i really don't know what is it really...
A lot of people uses these cup wheels for such tasks.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools/Diamond-Grinding-Wheels/Diamond-Grinding-Wheels---Cup?gQT=1
Or straight
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools/Diamond-Grinding-Wheels/Diamond-Grinding-Wheels---Straight
Thanks for the comment re : stick out. I've been struggling all afternoon with some 1.6mm ally without success .Saw your comment and nipped straight back into the w/s reduced the stick out and voila 100% improvement. who would have thought that it would make such a difference ? Not me for one.
Speed depends on amps and how good you are. My non-expert opinion from the photo is that you're moving too slowly for the amps you have set, or that the amps are too high for the metal. Small pieces get heat soaked very quickly.
IMHO, the diameter of the tungsten is immaterial at the moment...
You were bob on about the gas, I think this morning I was worried about unscrewing the valve too far and it coming out of the torch body,
I just did some more runs with the valve fully open and they still look like crap but much cleaner.
Gas problems, and that tungsten is mullered.
Have you got a 'peashooter' gauge? Make sure your gas flow is something sensible for that shroud (maybe 5 or 6 LPM) - it can be too high, as well as too low.
The tungsten should stay silver (ish) - it looks like it has been run without gas, or the...
Great suggestion Eddie - it's working again!!
I removed all plugs in the red circle below:
I then sprayed the plugs and sockets with electrical contact cleaner and blew them out. I also noticed there were fine metal (grinding?) particles on the boards. Very fine but it was there. I also...
So been doing most of what I need to do with stick the last few days, and my tig has just been lay wire to simply get a good strong joint.
Had to make a little piece just now that consisted of 2 bits of 5mm, spaced 50mm apart, with a bit of 5mm bridging the gap...basically 2 edge lap welds is...
If using a bench grinder dedicated for tungstens you can remove the fence allowing to point downwards which will prevent it grabbing. I would t call it dangerous to point up along the wheel if you know what your doing.
Drill a peice of steel bar and cross tap for a thumbscrew, good way to hold...
I was going to reply to this thread right back at the start, but decided against, that was not aimed at JOEPRO.
but this is how do you sharpen your tungsten's on the bench grinder, ie on the side of the wheel, giving the wrong grain for the HF to help aid starting, or pointing up the wheel to...
i have a bench grinder, but i know for a fact both wheels are massively contaminated and its currently in a box until im able to find time to make my new shed...long story short i had a fairly decent set up in a rented 'council' garage unit...3 months ago a garage 2 up from mine was torched...