Dispensing 2k paint?

[Kram]

Are we missing something here...

Get a spare lid and weld a spout on it, with a small air admittance hole. Open tin, stir as normal, swap the lid, pour, swap the lid back.
You'll have some waste to clean off the spout lid but gravity should get most back in the tin.

 

[julianf]

Couple of 100ml syringes or even 500ml ?

Pardon our interruption...

I have a long thread here, years ago, trying to find the source of my paint contamination.

It eventually came back to the silicone used to pre lubricate the plungers on those syringes.

I've not used them since.

 

[julianf]

The way I do it -

Get a bit of kitchen roll torn off.

Get the cup on the scale.

Go for it.

Wipe the dribble off the tin with the tissue.

 

[Kram]

I've tried syringes, plastic and glass, but they need lubrication and thinners makes them seize up, many have sillicone oil when new I believe, so best avioded. With a lathe you could turn up a metal syringe that would not seize up.

For a syringe to work you'd need to machine one with a sliding metal fit, perhaps with brass, or a solid peice of PTFE as the seal. Plastic with rubber seals, and glass types dont work.
I'm sure somwhere they can be bought, but likely to be expensive.

My annoyance is with filters. The paper ones are far too big for a mini gun and small quantities of paint, plus I dont really trust the paper, I've had some seperate.

I might get some of these to try.

Colad Synthetic Paint Strainers (10350130 / 10350190 / 10350280)

100% synthetic paint strainers with an increased straining surface to speed up the straining process but is still as affective as normal strainers.

www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk

 

[julianf]

Note :

You don't need to be spot on accurate with your PAINT measurement.

What I mean is, say you want 150g - aim for the cup and get something close to that...

And then use your mobile phone calculator to work out the hardener for 158.23g (etc) of paint.


Basically it doesn't matter if the paint measurement is some random amount (close to your intended) so long as you adjust the hardener to suit.

Hardener is easy to pour accuratly, as are thinners.

 

[Morris]

The way I do it -

Get a bit of kitchen roll torn off.

Get the cup on the scale.

Go for it.

Wipe the dribble off the tin with the tissue.

My technique as well. I also don't worry about accurate amounts ( I use plastic disposable measuring cups), never had a problem with paint or lacquer hardening.

 

[JOEPRO]

The way I do it -

Get a bit of kitchen roll torn off.

Fill paint cup to required graduation mark.

Wipe the dribble off the tin with the tissue.

I corrected that for you

 

[JOEPRO]

Guys I have bad news for you.

For those saying to use Salter / Kitchen digital scales to measure paint:



What I have also experienced first hand myself with our 2x modern digital kitchen scales is:

Weighing bags of coins. Way off! If I had equal bags of 5p coins weight wise on the digital scales, they were all not right and sometimes varied up to + / - 10 coins per bag!

Weighing small parcels. When I get to post office and use their accurate scales, they were off by a fair bit too.

Short of it is - they are not designed for paint measurements. I would not trust them for that.

Just use paint cups for their intended puspose. If you are off a mm or 2 on the scale it will still be in the right ball park. Kitchen scales will likely be off by much more and you may never know.

Pro paint shops using proper digital scales - 100%. Kitchen scales - bad idea IMO.

 

[bigegg]

*If* I weighed my paints, rather measured by volume, I have a set of calibrated lab scales from my previous life as a colour matcher.

Realistically, how accurate does it have to be? - I'm *not* colour matching.
Surely if there is even a 10% imbalance in the ratio, it will just affect curing time by a small amount? - probably less effect than fluctuations in ambient temperature?

 

[julianf]

I corrected that for you

I mix by weight.

As made clear a couple of posts prior to yours! : )

 

[julianf]

*If* I weighed my paints, rather measured by volume, I have a set of calibrated lab scales from my previous life as a colour matcher.

Realistically, how accurate does it have to be? - I'm *not* colour matching.
Surely if there is even a 10% imbalance in the ratio, it will just affect curing time by a small amount? - probably less effect than fluctuations in ambient temperature?

Just do it by weight. There's no reason not to, is there?

As I say, tip the paint, and get close to your target and then add the hardener according to your actual paint weight - it's easy enough to pour hardener to within +/- 0.05g.

I don't understand why anyone would want to do it any other way really?

 

[Slowcoach]

Get a soup ladle or measuring spoons. Pouring small amounts from a tin is hard work, and messy.
I’d say bodyshops only use scales for mixing colour if they have a mixing scheme, hardener and thinners measured off mixing stick.
It was easier before gravity guns became popular as suction gun cup just sat on the scales, mix paint then add hardener and thinner and the pps cups and the like are so light the mixing stick can tip it over.

 

[JOEPRO]

I don't understand why anyone would want to do it any other way really?

Paint cup markings is how I do it as said previously. Perfectly acceptable method - its literally part of the paint cup function.

 

[Morris]

*If* I weighed my paints, rather measured by volume, I have a set of calibrated lab scales from my previous life as a colour matcher.

Realistically, how accurate does it have to be? - I'm *not* colour matching.
Surely if there is even a 10% imbalance in the ratio, it will just affect curing time by a small amount? - probably less effect than fluctuations in ambient temperature?

This was sprayed by less than accurate ratios, seems ok to me.

 

[JOEPRO]

WIth a paint cup it also won't turn itself off or reset by mistake mid pour. Even I can't mess it up

 

[Slowcoach]

This was sprayed by less than accurate ratios, seems ok to me.
View attachment 537589

Shoddy old job

 

[fizzy]

Get a soup ladle or measuring spoons. Pouring small amounts from a tin is hard work, and messy.
I’d say bodyshops only use scales for mixing colour if they have a mixing scheme, hardener and thinners measured off mixing stick.
It was easier before gravity guns became popular as suction gun cup just sat on the scales, mix paint then add hardener and thinner and the pps cups and the like are so light the mixing stick can tip it over.
View attachment 537587

close - I use these

Wine ladles - expensive on Amazon - Ebay cheaper and 4 different sizes

Pardon our interruption...

 

[bigegg]

<Want 150g>

work out the hardener for 158.23g (etc) of paint.

This is what I was referring to above.

For a non-colour critical epoxy primer, will 8g in 150g (5%) really make any difference?


I realise this is thread-drift from my original question.

 

[tigdlo]

For a non-colour critical epoxy primer, will 8g in 150g (5%) really make any difference?

I often mix 10g of lechler epoxy with 3g of hardener so use a cheap set of ebay/amazon/aliexpress 0.1g x 500g scales. Up to +10% on the hardener, 3.3g still works as it but if I'm doing something important I will get it closer even though I can't tell the difference in the finished product.

The paint and hardener have different densities, I'm pretty sure volume is 2:1 and weight is 10:3 for lechler epoxy but always check data sheets.

 

[JOEPRO]

Note :

You don't need to be spot on accurate with your PAINT measurement.

What I mean is, say you want 150g - aim for the cup and get something close to that...

And then use your mobile phone calculator to work out the hardener for 158.23g (etc) of paint.


Basically it doesn't matter if the paint measurement is some random amount (close to your intended) so long as you adjust the hardener to suit.

Hardener is easy to pour accuratly, as are thinners.

In your 150g example above, assuming that is paint - how do you work out how much hardener?