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sako243
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Given it's 3 wires I'd expect it to be a hall-effect sensor then and quite often they're open-drain on the sensor line so need pulling up to the ECU voltage.
I don't think you'll see anything useful measuring old and new with a multimeter.
Is there a camshaft sensor as well?
What I don't get (yet) is why the engine runs after starting with EasyStart, my only theory at the moment (not familiar with these engines at all) is that the crank position sensor is used whilst cranking to determine where the engine is. Being a diesel it needs to know the camshaft as well (unlike a non-direct injection petrol where you can run wasted spark) so CPS to determine where it is whilst cranking (faster start?) and then once running flicks over to using the cam position as the primary measurement of where the engine is. There's presumably a threshold like on Megasquirt / Speeduino etc., where >400rpm means the engine is actually running. So perhaps starting it on easy-start is enough to trigger it to get over the cranking threshold at which point the cam sensor takes over.
It would be simple to determine if the CPS is behaving if you had access to an oscilloscope. You can probably test my theory above by disconnecting the cam sensor and it may "start" on easy-start but then stop.
Crank sensor fault could be a red herring.
It's been a long time since I've worked on those engines, but lots of engines will trigger a crank sensor fault if they're not running, and lots of diagnostics of that era don't accurately report values during cranking.
The fact it starts with a bit easy start would suggest the problem is fuelling related.
Have you tried giving it a good run, and does it restart OK once warmed up?
It's been a long time since I've worked on those engines, but lots of engines will trigger a crank sensor fault if they're not running, and lots of diagnostics of that era don't accurately report values during cranking.
The fact it starts with a bit easy start would suggest the problem is fuelling related.
Have you tried giving it a good run, and does it restart OK once warmed up?
Nomad
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I'm still pulling my hair out with this 
Took it for a 30 mile round trip a couple of weeks ago (when the non-start was intermittent), ran fine, either started instantly on the key or didn#t start. Key off and try again ... maybe 5 attempts at most before it fired up.
Now it won't fire up without easy start even if it's been run for a while and turned off seconds ago.
The P0335 error code pointed at the crank position sensor (red herring?). I fitted a new Delphi sensor - no improvement. Decided to commit and had a genuine Bosch sensor shipped from Spain - fitted it today and no improvement
New small bore vacuum pipes have been fitted so the EGR and turbo actuator are now actually plumbed in.
The drivers door card was removed so I could try to find why the central locking does nothing - then I found it has no central locking. Oops
My generic code reader doesn't read the crank position sensor (it does show RPM but this could be from the alternator / revcounter signal). Not helpful.
The all-singing Vaux-Com diagnostic software I installed last week was great for reading codes and sensors but is now crashing ...
The no-start might be a simple fault but I can't find it.
I'm trying to wrap up a few projects as I have a deadline looming, it looks like I'll be admitting defeat and dropping this off at my local workshop after the weekend....
Took it for a 30 mile round trip a couple of weeks ago (when the non-start was intermittent), ran fine, either started instantly on the key or didn#t start. Key off and try again ... maybe 5 attempts at most before it fired up.
Now it won't fire up without easy start even if it's been run for a while and turned off seconds ago.
The P0335 error code pointed at the crank position sensor (red herring?). I fitted a new Delphi sensor - no improvement. Decided to commit and had a genuine Bosch sensor shipped from Spain - fitted it today and no improvement
New small bore vacuum pipes have been fitted so the EGR and turbo actuator are now actually plumbed in.
The drivers door card was removed so I could try to find why the central locking does nothing - then I found it has no central locking. Oops
My generic code reader doesn't read the crank position sensor (it does show RPM but this could be from the alternator / revcounter signal). Not helpful.
The all-singing Vaux-Com diagnostic software I installed last week was great for reading codes and sensors but is now crashing ...
The no-start might be a simple fault but I can't find it.
I'm trying to wrap up a few projects as I have a deadline looming, it looks like I'll be admitting defeat and dropping this off at my local workshop after the weekend....
The fuel pump ECU on these (the one bolted to the back of the engine) were well known for solder joints failing, and could give random faults.
It might be worth removing it, prising the cover off, and giving it a visual check over. It was the solder joints immediately under the cover that used to fail, and were quite obvious to spot.
At the time on company vehicles we would just fit a new ECU, but another workshop had a private customers fail. The customer happened to work at a medical equipment manufacturer, so they got one of their electronics guy to give it a check over, and after repairing the numerous failed joints, it cured all the problems.
It might be worth removing it, prising the cover off, and giving it a visual check over. It was the solder joints immediately under the cover that used to fail, and were quite obvious to spot.
At the time on company vehicles we would just fit a new ECU, but another workshop had a private customers fail. The customer happened to work at a medical equipment manufacturer, so they got one of their electronics guy to give it a check over, and after repairing the numerous failed joints, it cured all the problems.
sako243
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Why? Please back that up.
Kayos
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I'm not disputing the wisdom, but I've made thousands of solder joints in cars with lead free and I'm yet to have an issue
angellonewolf
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Lead free is normaly ok 99.9 pecent of thr time it just is prone to more problems than leaded
A few years ago when the xbox come out they eu or who every said all new electronics had to be lead free when this happened I seen a lot of mechines fail due to cracked joints/problems with the consoles due to lead free
Every solder job I use 60/40 its just better stuff
Kayos
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I had a break from anything electronic while we did my apprenticeship and we switched to lead free plumbing solder during that time so lead free electrical solder seemed normal to me
Red'n'Black
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There were a lot of teething troubles with lead free when it first came in. Our industry (medical) had an exemption for a while, but it expired around 2012 and all our stuff is lead free now. With a good process (we sub all our board assembly out) the reliability is just as good as tin/lead. A lot of the stuff mentioned earlier would have been built in the early days of the RoHS regs, when they were still ironing the bugs out.
For manual work, in the lab and at home, I still use tin/lead as I (and a lot of others by the sound of it) find it a lot harder to tell a good joint from a bad one with lead free. Even a properly made joint will have a slightly matt / crazed surface, which would be a reject with tin/lead.
Plus I have most of a big reel of 60/40 left, bought from Maplin circa 1987, which will probably outlast me
For manual work, in the lab and at home, I still use tin/lead as I (and a lot of others by the sound of it) find it a lot harder to tell a good joint from a bad one with lead free. Even a properly made joint will have a slightly matt / crazed surface, which would be a reject with tin/lead.
Plus I have most of a big reel of 60/40 left, bought from Maplin circa 1987, which will probably outlast me
sako243
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Nope. Certainly wasn't the case for stuff I was designing 10 years ago. Maybe old stuff that had been designed before lead free became prevalent.
angellonewolf
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plumbing a bit differant there could be trace amounts of lead in the water if soldered with leaded but its not harmed me for the last x amount or years or so i think so i still use it when soldering plumbing in my own house but not at work
with lead in it theres less chance of cracking or failing joints through movement or vibration
MetalMonkey
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Fatigued lead-free solder joints are very common, especially in those early days when manufacturers were making the change.
Reflowing with leaded is a pretty standard repair practice. It is also easier to spot a bad joint, especially when hand soldering a repair.
Reflowing with leaded is a pretty standard repair practice. It is also easier to spot a bad joint, especially when hand soldering a repair.
Seadog
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The Enduring Applications of Leaded Assembly: Where Does It Still Reign Supreme?
Explore why leaded assembly reigns in military, aerospace, and high-reliability electronics with superior vibration resistance and durability.
