- Thread starter God mode restorations
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.
Jan-DIY
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Well.
Parts are fortunately on stock.
cost just some caps and 2 BC337.
This device cost about 7k sterling.
Now it is back in business.
slim_boy_fat
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It seems while I've been away the whole family have been saving jobs for me.
It's nice to be popular
James1979
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You’ll be opening a shop soon
AndersK
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Looks like Moonshine to me
Jan-DIY
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That is what Iam planning.You’ll be opening a shop soon
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Yesterday this was transformed from this.
The classic MOD metal tray tool box, with hasp.
As you can see it was very rusty..
The inside was not as bad. Yesterday was lessons in rust removal and the safe use of angle grinders and other power tools.
The inside was soon on it's way to being rust free.
.
The outside was first treated to a off the shelf rust converter. One to reduce the dust that would be produced. Plus to seep into the many seams.
It is applied, you have 2 coffees then wash it off.
It always makes me laugh, you remove the rust converter/remover with water. That then will seep into the seams and defeats the point of converting the rust.
In this case using blow torches we dried the seams out after the water wash.
Then wire brushes were used, the coffee drinking was lots as I watched.
The finish was very good, but they missed the part of keying the surface before paint.
TA DAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It just needed some TYA finishing details.
BLING.
But it is just a white box.
So what makes a tool box?
Tools of course.
Why white?
2 reasons.
One is that things like that from the MOD should be repainted and the NSN stamped out.
"Should be".
Plus.
I had enough grey primmer and white paint.
The classic MOD metal tray tool box, with hasp.
As you can see it was very rusty..
The inside was not as bad. Yesterday was lessons in rust removal and the safe use of angle grinders and other power tools.
The inside was soon on it's way to being rust free.
.
The outside was first treated to a off the shelf rust converter. One to reduce the dust that would be produced. Plus to seep into the many seams.
It is applied, you have 2 coffees then wash it off.
It always makes me laugh, you remove the rust converter/remover with water. That then will seep into the seams and defeats the point of converting the rust.
In this case using blow torches we dried the seams out after the water wash.
Then wire brushes were used, the coffee drinking was lots as I watched.
The finish was very good, but they missed the part of keying the surface before paint.
TA DAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It just needed some TYA finishing details.
BLING.
But it is just a white box.
So what makes a tool box?
Tools of course.
Why white?
2 reasons.
One is that things like that from the MOD should be repainted and the NSN stamped out.
"Should be".
Plus.
I had enough grey primmer and white paint.
James1979
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I made a very stiff wooden box.
It's a 15 inch Wharfedale driver, had it nearly three years. Finally found a sheet of ply and an amp with a subwoofer pre-out so that was my round tuit.
Don't have any specs for the driver, couldn't measure anything particularly useful and Wharfedale wouldn't tell me so rather than risk a ported enclosure sounding like crap, it's sealed with the internal dimensions all the golden ratio of each other (That's is, it's 1.618 times wider than it is deep and 1.618 times taller than it is wide, on the inside at least), it's supposed to reduce harmonics or something. The volume is very close to that of thr enclosure wharfedale used. Uneven bracing is supposed to help too...
Still needs some damping material inside, painting, ideally handles and a SpeakOn connector, and possibly a grille but I'll listen to it for a few weeks first I think.
It's a 15 inch Wharfedale driver, had it nearly three years. Finally found a sheet of ply and an amp with a subwoofer pre-out so that was my round tuit.
Don't have any specs for the driver, couldn't measure anything particularly useful and Wharfedale wouldn't tell me so rather than risk a ported enclosure sounding like crap, it's sealed with the internal dimensions all the golden ratio of each other (That's is, it's 1.618 times wider than it is deep and 1.618 times taller than it is wide, on the inside at least), it's supposed to reduce harmonics or something. The volume is very close to that of thr enclosure wharfedale used. Uneven bracing is supposed to help too...
Still needs some damping material inside, painting, ideally handles and a SpeakOn connector, and possibly a grille but I'll listen to it for a few weeks first I think.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I was waiting for you to reply with something along those lines, you are getting slow however, it took you almost 25minsYou can't beat, (well actually, you can), some stiff wood.
MattF
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I was waiting for you to reply with something along those lines, you are getting slow however, it took you almost 25mins
I'm having to take breaks from here, to make it look like I'm doing some housework, you know.
I'm having to take breaks from here, to make it look like I'm doing some housework, you know.
Blue Chips
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Just a small project: I made a clamp-on aluminium easel tray for Mrs. Blue Chips. I was going to TIG weld it, but I'm waiting for a replacement gas solenoid valve for my TIG welder, so I fabbed it up the old-fashioned way, with solid rivets, pneumatic rivet gun, and bucking bar. The stainless water cup is removable, the clamps have wedges adjusted to provide a slight rearward tilt, and I left gaps at the rear corners to allow drainage for spills or rinsing. The clear silicone bumpers are just for keeping a palette centered. She plans to give it a workout later this week, as she's scheduled to attend a four-day plein-air painting workshop.
I think the lens and camera angle in this photo make the tray look a lot bigger than it actually is.
I think the lens and camera angle in this photo make the tray look a lot bigger than it actually is.
Kram
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Brazed a damaged insert onto 10mm hex key. 600g diamond wheel to light sharpen
Then as I had grinder out, I have a 22IR TR4 insert, too big for a 12mm bore, for a 16x4 nut. Ages ago I chopped into 3 parts. 4.8mm thick, so need to take some off the bottom while preserving flatness for brazing. Brazed onto some key steel so I dont burn my fingers, and for a parallel reference to scribe from.
Dimond wheel to just over 2mm thick
Next to unbraze, grind a 15 degree seat on a bar and stick it on.
Then as I had grinder out, I have a 22IR TR4 insert, too big for a 12mm bore, for a 16x4 nut. Ages ago I chopped into 3 parts. 4.8mm thick, so need to take some off the bottom while preserving flatness for brazing. Brazed onto some key steel so I dont burn my fingers, and for a parallel reference to scribe from.
Dimond wheel to just over 2mm thick
Next to unbraze, grind a 15 degree seat on a bar and stick it on.
ronan
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Thats good thinking Batman.
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Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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7/16" draw bar for my new boring head.
Couldn't be bothered setting up a steady to turn a long slender part so I made a thread and a hex and stuck them on a bit of 6mm bar with a thread and a dab of Loctite 638, it's not going anywhere.
Couldn't be bothered setting up a steady to turn a long slender part so I made a thread and a hex and stuck them on a bit of 6mm bar with a thread and a dab of Loctite 638, it's not going anywhere.
MattF
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