postie jon
Member
- Messages
- 878
- Location
- Aberdeenshire, Scotland
i heat mine with a paint strip gun blasting the side of the tin for 15 mns. until its boiling, but b very careful ,i wear my old firefighter gloves too!
has the oven rusted ,was it a success?Seeing Bob’s comment about the oven, my mate, now sadly gone was restoring a Healey 100/4 years ago. We all shared a bit of a barn attached to another friends house. First mate was under sealing the chassis found the underseal was far better hot, so he used to nip in the house & stick the tin in the oven .......... you can see where this is going can’t you, tin in oven, still with lid on & something happened & he forgot about it. It took about half an hour & there was an almighty bang, kitchen full of smoke & the underseal all over the gas jets burning well. We were all in the doghouse for weeks & it took ages to clean up the inside of the oven. Happy days, you only learn by your mistakes
The problem with heating Waxoyl is that by the time its been atomised and got to the car its cold again, which is fine as it stays there, but for me in cavities at least I want it to stay like thick liquid and soak through seams.
What I've been doing for a few years is mixing Waxoyl and new cheap engine oil, i use a food mixer to blend it. It never sets and as an example when I filled my new sills with loads of it, it leaked out of the bottom seam to begin with, which tells me that the seam is completely filled and water cant get in there and start rotting it out.
Heres my logic, many of us have had a car with a long running oil leak and noticed that the oily area stays rust free, the RHS chassis leg on my Carlton had a leaky power steering hose above it for years, and the oil had soaked right through to the wheelarch side, while the other side of the car had rotted out.
My theory is that the Waxoyl gives the oil enough stiffness not to run off, it keeps the oil in place in a thick film, necessary because the car doesnt have a constant oil leak feed into all of the cavities. The oil never sets and soaks into everything.
This is no use where road spray will wash it off but for cavities and protected areas such as under bonnet it seems to work great. Pick up some cheap engine oil and your Waxoyl becomes a lot cheaper, mix about 50/50.
I don't know about black sheep my lanolin says black swan lanolin on it. Ever seen a rusty swan?Eddie , I've seen a black sheep are you sure that wasn't rusty , Hang on yes Jacob sheep are definatly rusty
Well there rusty colour at least
Ever seen a rusty swan?
The problem with heating Waxoyl is that by the time its been atomised and got to the car its cold again, which is fine as it stays there, but for me in cavities at least I want it to stay like thick liquid and soak through seams.
What I've been doing for a few years is mixing Waxoyl and new cheap engine oil, i use a food mixer to blend it. It never sets and as an example when I filled my new sills with loads of it, it leaked out of the bottom seam to begin with, which tells me that the seam is completely filled and water cant get in there and start rotting it out.
Heres my logic, many of us have had a car with a long running oil leak and noticed that the oily area stays rust free, the RHS chassis leg on my Carlton had a leaky power steering hose above it for years, and the oil had soaked right through to the wheelarch side, while the other side of the car had rotted out.
My theory is that the Waxoyl gives the oil enough stiffness not to run off, it keeps the oil in place in a thick film, necessary because the car doesnt have a constant oil leak feed into all of the cavities. The oil never sets and soaks into everything.
This is no use where road spray will wash it off but for cavities and protected areas such as under bonnet it seems to work great. Pick up some cheap engine oil and your Waxoyl becomes a lot cheaper, mix about 50/50.