Chainsaw sharpening

[norlander]

I used to use oil that was not meant for chainsaw bars and chains, things didn't last as long as when I used proper oil.

Thats what we found, false economy for us to use any old oil, but anyway wadda I say before? OIL=fftopic:

 

[mike os]

2 stroke.. I only use stihl. Chain oil... try cheap vegetable oil, costs peanuts. Adjust the flow to ensure the chain is getting enough, usually pretty much closed off as it's thin, you need to fill up more often

 

[awemawson]

Another vote for Rye Oils. They deliver but infact are relatively close to me down by Rye Harbour. I use their Universal Tractor Oil in all the farm machinery and my TD5 Disco, and I seem to remember they delivered out last fill up of 2250 litres of CH oil. Their little lorry goes past the farm gate most days

 

[armalites]

I use Stihl 2 stroke and Stihl Synth Plus chain oil, I use the chain oil on recommendation of a couple of friends in forestry. They also do a biodegradable version that many have to use when working near water etc. I found the chain oil flowed much better in the cold but still lubed the chain well, always get a good clean line of oil when running the saw up to test it. You can buy 2x 5L delivered on ebay for less than £20.

 

[Monkey Harris]

I put my used engine oil in my chain saw..

 

[visor_down]

Mine states to use SAE 30 for the chain oil?
I presume an actual chain oil, being thicker wouldnt flow? As it doesn't have a mechanical pump, it is just uses crankcase pulses to pressurise the oil tank through a duckbill valve.
Is there such a thing as thin chain oil that offers better protection than say standard SAE 30 ?

 

[Paul99]

I put my used engine oil in my chain saw..

You filthy bugger . The previous owner of my stihl did that... what a mess that was to clean up

 

[Wendelspanswick]

I put my used engine oil in my chain saw..

Not a good idea, used engine oil is carcinogenic and you are spraying it into the air!

 

[norlander]

Mine states to use SAE 30 for the chain oil?
I presume an actual chain oil, being thicker wouldnt flow? As it doesn't have a mechanical pump, it is just uses crankcase pulses to pressurise the oil tank through a duckbill valve.
Is there such a thing as thin chain oil that offers better protection than say standard SAE 30 ?

We had some for winter and some for summer, think the winter stuff was from Castrol, what you do notice with proper stuff is there is sometimes stingy snot coz I think its got anti fling in it -like wot mocycle chain lubes have.
But never had a problem with oil flow except when using gash oil- only way on the hill to sort it out is to tip the oil out, pour in fuel and run it through- and yeah, thats not really a very good idea, but its that or lose the day.

 

[glyn.c]

spot on i remember years back when i started in the woods i used to use old chip shop oil ,they used to be happy for us to take it off them for free as they had to pay disposal costs ,problem was at the end of the day your leggins smelt like a cold fish supper

 

[Migmac]

spot on i remember years back when i started in the woods i used to use old chip shop oil ,they used to be happy for us to take it off them for free as they had to pay disposal costs ,problem was at the end of the day your leggins smelt like a cold fish supper

Worked beside guys that used chip oil, always felt hungry

One of the other boys used used hydraulic oil, knackered his oil pump in days

 

[Farside]

Horribly dry sound from his chain / bar

 

[Migmac]

The chain is way to tight, a good way to knacker chains, bars, rims and nose sprockets.

 

[fixerupper]

Seems an over complicated solution ... just buy a file for a euro ,easy no noise , drink a cup of coffee and back to work ....and yeah real chain oil every time ....jeff

 

[gaz1]

chainsaw blades unsure which one to get

ive measured and counted the teeth its either get a chain or just replace the blade and chain

ive read up by its parts list i can use a 16"

the blade i have is 14" but measured from the chainsaw flat to the tip its 11 1/2" takes 45 teeth

pdf for saw parts

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/dolmarpartslist995700083.pdf

what i have now is this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Chain...212737?hash=item1c4811d601:g:uXkAAOSw6EhUSQ3K

14" is this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-Guide-...963503?hash=item5427eaf92f:g:Op0AAOSwp5JWaZG8

or the 16" one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Guide-...845925?hash=item487b27b825:g:mdgAAOSwBLlU7vs6

query which one do i get if i want to lengthen the chainsaw a bit ?

 

[Migmac]

16 inch one

 

[fixerupper]

Is your bar and chain totally worn out or does it just need filing back into shape ?...do you need a bit more length (ooer mrs )... (I use a ten inch for just about everything these days ) ....My advice for what it's worth is ... take the saw with the bar and the chain to a local shop and get some pro advice ... jeff..

 

[glyn.c]

im with jeff, recon the new bar is the one to go with get a new chain for it "size aint everything you know its how you use what you have " let the saw run at its optimum and dont overload it ,its quicker in the long run

 

[Gareth J]

No one's mentioned Vernier callipers yet. For those who don't do enough to it to warrant special tools, a lidl Vernier can be had for ~£10. If you've not already got one.

Use it after a few sharpens or an accidental clout on something hard to equalise the teeth. Inspect the chain and find the lowest tooth, sharpen it and measure it's length. Then do the rest of the teeth and match that, shortest tooth.

By the end of the chain you will know how many tenths of a mill you can remove with one file stroke and only need to measure each tooth once to get a start reading and maybe twice more to hit the mark.

Works for me. Although I do like the look of those little cordless grinders, doing the long saw can get a bit tiresome

 

[Agrismith]

No one's mentioned Vernier callipers yet. For those who don't do enough to it to warrant special tools, a lidl Vernier can be had for ~£10. If you've not already got one.

Use it after a few sharpens or an accidental clout on something hard to equalise the teeth. Inspect the chain and find the lowest tooth, sharpen it and measure it's length. Then do the rest of the teeth and match that, shortest tooth.

By the end of the chain you will know how many tenths of a mill you can remove with one file stroke and only need to measure each tooth once to get a start reading and maybe twice more to hit the mark.

Works for me. Although I do like the look of those little cordless grinders, doing the long saw can get a bit tiresome

A nut and bolt is even cheaper and does the same job or the lidl sharpner is £25