What's bad about it.

[Richard.]

My pet hate is when you turn a dinse plug you skin your knuckles on the adjacent Amphenol plug.

My pet hate is on the dins adapter when you twist it and the pipe ends up pointing down and kinking the pipe. So you end up having to whip off the cover to turn the dins socket

 

[Hood]

Talking of plugs, that is one thing I love about the TecArc, it just pushes in and to get out you just push a wee tab and pull out, no messing around trying to tighten up a threaded securing ring.

 

[Jim Davey]

I like MIL spec connectors, I think they hold up well to abuse. I just don't like having to rotate connectors so a dinse adaptor with an elbow ends up missing something else once it's tightened up.

 

[Endeleus]

Lincoln PowerTec 271c - no wire speed / power chart under the flap... as I don't use MIG very often, it takes my old memory a while to kick in (I've started taking a note of what works for common jobs on my whiteboard as a result).

 

[Endeleus]

Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 - ground lead hardwired. I've been meaning to retrofit a dins adaptor for as long as I've had the machine.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Mains cables come in at the back, pretty much the first thing it needs to go to is the switch. The most efficient use of cable and space is to put the switch there. That's why most do.

Bugs me too, for the pennies worth of cable and almost immeasurable weight and size I'd much rather they just ran it to the front.
Heck, even at the top on the back would be better than right at the bottom

Hey, even all my old buzzbox welders have them on the front

 

[Robotstar5]

I like MIL spec connectors, I think they hold up well to abuse.

That's why they're called MIL spec when you see what Squaddies try to do with them

The Japanese have their own version of MIL spec found on robots, cnc's etc., but have a much finer thread which is not ideal for industrial environments as the slightest spec of dirt will jam them

 

[Jim Davey]

My favourite is when people untwist Amphenol style connectors on the wrong place and twist up and then break the wires inside.

 

[Robotstar5]

My favourite is when people untwist Amphenol style connectors on the wrong place and twist up and then break the wires inside.

At least it keeps your service dept. in business with the soldering iron

 

[Jim Davey]

Soldering is money, I hate it when I forget to put the backshell first.

 

[eSCHEn]

Soldering is money, I hate it when I forget to put the backshell first.

After doing twenty odd leads in a control panel and then realising you've forgotten... It's enough to drive a chap to drunk.

 

[Robotstar5]

Soldering is money, I hate it when I forget to put the backshell first.

Been there, done that, luckily (for my sanity) I never forgot the hoods/shells when making up the 3x49 core cables into high density plugs for I/O leads.

 

[eSCHEn]

And somehow the ones which come in two parts to screw/snap together afterwards feel like "cheating".

 

[Richard.]

And somehow the ones which come in two parts to screw/snap together afterwards feel like "cheating".

I bet they feel like a kiss from an angel when you realise you forgot about it 20 cables in.

 

[eSCHEn]

I bet they feel like a kiss from an angel when you realise you forgot about it 20 cables in.

Absolutely!

 

[roofman]

Ryval 175 Multi-Process Inverter 240V
The wire speed is linked to the voltage dial.. but even worse the true wire speed does,nt kick in untill the arc is started thus making it impossible to check wire speed by the eye and everything ive always done as long as ive been welding Plus i hate using voltage to set my welders Amps which this machine also has..

 

[rory1]

I have a little portamig 235 and the wire feed has always been awful when using 15kg reels. The location of the euro connector caused a lot of drag over the spool. I've now moved the euro connector to the very bottom of the machine and it feeds much smoother. Il get a picture when I'm in the shop tommorow

 

[matt1978]

Ryval 175 Multi-Process Inverter 240V
The wire speed is linked to the voltage dial.. but even worse the true wire speed does,nt kick in untill the arc is started thus making it impossible to check wire speed by the eye and everything ive always done as long as ive been welding Plus i hate using voltage to set my welders Amps which this machine also has..

I understand it may not be to your tastes but to be fair, most modern machines don't initiate the actual wire feed rate until the arc is started, this helps with ignition. If you have selected 13 m/min with a 0.8mm wire, you don't want the wire crashing into the plat at 13 meters/min before the arc has even begun. It usually comes out at a pre-determined creep speed, which on most machines is 1 m/min. You can probably increase this within some sort of hidden menu.

Also, there is also a defined link between Voltage and Wirefeed rate whicg gives the Amperage, so for x amount of voltage, there should always be a certain ratio of wirefeed rate to accompany it. If the wire feed rate out of your machine doesn't seem to match the voltage, then you should be able to increase the ratio by adjusting the wirefeed speed knob. Usually then, when you increase or decrease the voltage your wirefeed rate should then adjust pro-rata

 

[roofman]

I understand it may not be to your tastes but to be fair, most modern machines don't initiate the actual wire feed rate until the arc is started, this helps with ignition. If you have selected 13 m/min with a 0.8mm wire, you don't want the wire crashing into the plat at 13 meters/min before the arc has even begun. It usually comes out at a pre-determined creep speed, which on most machines is 1 m/min. You can probably increase this within some sort of hidden menu.

Also, there is also a defined link between Voltage and Wirefeed rate whicg gives the Amperage, so for x amount of voltage, there should always be a certain ratio of wirefeed rate to accompany it. If the wire feed rate out of your machine doesn't seem to match the voltage, then you should be able to increase the ratio by adjusting the wirefeed speed knob. Usually then, when you increase or decrease the voltage your wirefeed rate should then adjust pro-rata

Yea i understand all what you qouted and why its there but my point was i dont like it

 

[hotrodder]

The recessed sockets on the v205t don't really bother me, the only one that's not 1/4 turn or Q/R is the foot pedal and that's only a proper PITA to unscrew if you don't unplug the return lead first

Switch on the back makes perfect sense to me, i'd be more annoyed if the front panel layout was compromised/cluttered up with more stuff. Don't think i've ever used a machine that had a switch on the front even big old beasts that are mostly empty inside and have massive front panels filled with mostly nothing

When mine and Pete's v205 were made fan on demand was still relatively rare, the one thing i really dislike is having to switch the machine off and then on again to access the hidden menu. It'd be a ball ache if the menu only contained stuff that really rarely needed to be fiddled with but it's also the only way to adjust stuff like preflow time

Less annoying but it'd also be nice if various parameters could be associative/set as % instead of absolute values only. Also be nice if the waterpump was quieter but personally i'd take compact & light but noisy over bulky & heavy but quiet as i'm usually wearing ear plugs anyway