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cumbriasteve
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Mine was done with the one Travis Perkins sell, can't remember the name but think they only sell the one brand...good stuff and looks a very permanent fix...good and solid.
gordon stephenson
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To do them properly, Don't you have to remove some tiles to ensure that you are getting a good fixing into the roofing timber.
cumbriasteve
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The ridge one's are held down by a couple of drive in long screws into the main ridge board so that's easy enough, I suppose no tiles to remove except the old ridge and any cement that's under it.
Not sure about the side eaves though, had mine done when they were putting a full new set of tiles on and never saw the eaves fixing method.
Not sure about the side eaves though, had mine done when they were putting a full new set of tiles on and never saw the eaves fixing method.
gordon stephenson
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I believe that they should screw into the ends of the tiling battons. But the "cowboys" use long screws that they screw into any gap they can find even cracks in the old cement verges no matter how flimsy, I'v washed them do it on a bungalow across the road, Took them around 30mins to do the complete job, And several of them had blown off within weeks,
Migmac
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The ones we got needed the end tiles taken off, this was so as you could fix the dry verge to the batons then slide the tiles into the dry verge. Got quoted £1800 to do the job, did it myself in a morning. We get gales upto 90 mph and the verge has stayed put, must of done something right
brightspark
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they look crap and fade after a few years and look shabby. Rake out re pointing them is the proper way unless your a traveller 
or cant be bothered to do it properly
or cant be bothered to do it properly
rtbcomp
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I think that applies to most building plastics, even though they try emulate wooden doors and cast iron downpipes &c& they never look right.
Fazerruss
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they look crap and fade after a few years and look shabby. Rake out re pointing them is the proper way unless your a traveller
Not if you use a quality brand. These went up 6 years ago and still like exactly like the spare one i have in the shed.
Also re pointing is not the best way. The cement gets damp and soaks the battens causing them to rot.
These wont need any more maintenance.
thats why I was hoping for advice on the brand..lol
brightspark
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my ridges were bedded on 35 years ago when I reroofed the house and there still fine now
Fazerruss
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I'll have a look at the spare for a name. They are very popular though. I think tool station sell them at an inflated price. At the time I paid about £1.65 each plus vat.
Rudi McAnichal
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On a purely subjective assessment, Marley and Klober units seemed to me to be the most substantial, but it is hard to find a place where you can handle and compare different makes. Jewsons had several types in stock, but were certainly not cheap. In the end I fitted Harcon units (£1.35+VAT from Roofing Superstore) because they suited existing the tile overhang on this house, and only time will tell how well they last.
Note that dry verge units can be tricky to fit if profiled tiles such as double Roman have been cut to leave a half-width tile at the gable, or if the outer row of tiles at the gable have been cocked up at an angle.
Note that dry verge units can be tricky to fit if profiled tiles such as double Roman have been cut to leave a half-width tile at the gable, or if the outer row of tiles at the gable have been cocked up at an angle.
To do them proper, you should get a kit where the plastic verge unit is fixed with nail on to the top face of the tile batten, not into the end grain.
This usually involves stripping out 3 full tiles all the way up. So you may be stripping 35 tile on each verge. This is so you can cut out the tile batten and renew that section to span your 50mm overhang to the nearest roof truss. When wet mortar verges are formed, the batten are cut about level with wall head. This is too short to suit the new verge units. The wooden batten in the mortar can rot as well through capilliary action as water goes through mortar.
A mortar cloaked verge is fine, if done properly, but lots were not done proper with tiled undercloak. The asbestos sheet used on many 60s and 70s builds, tends to move with expansion and the bedding (or lack of) moves and falls out.
I liked Redland dry verge for fit and solidity. Mortar verges take more skill, hence more plastic is used aftermarket by many. However fitting the plastic verge to perished mortar verge is time consuming. I gave a heavy bill for that which was more than people thought it would be.......they didn't realise the work involved.
This usually involves stripping out 3 full tiles all the way up. So you may be stripping 35 tile on each verge. This is so you can cut out the tile batten and renew that section to span your 50mm overhang to the nearest roof truss. When wet mortar verges are formed, the batten are cut about level with wall head. This is too short to suit the new verge units. The wooden batten in the mortar can rot as well through capilliary action as water goes through mortar.
A mortar cloaked verge is fine, if done properly, but lots were not done proper with tiled undercloak. The asbestos sheet used on many 60s and 70s builds, tends to move with expansion and the bedding (or lack of) moves and falls out.
I liked Redland dry verge for fit and solidity. Mortar verges take more skill, hence more plastic is used aftermarket by many. However fitting the plastic verge to perished mortar verge is time consuming. I gave a heavy bill for that which was more than people thought it would be.......they didn't realise the work involved.
cumbriasteve
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brown and fading already
I also notice that with some brown one's locally, they get that milky white shadowing eventually, black does not seem to.
My black one's are 6 years old now and still same as the day they went up
I also notice that with some brown one's locally, they get that milky white shadowing eventually, black does not seem to.
My black one's are 6 years old now and still same as the day they went up
I think it's the hard on ones from roofing super store I was looking at due to their description of fitting with an extra leg.
Those are the shape of my tiles.....can't be that hard a troop of monkeys fitted the two houses next door and over the road they used one ladder and walked over the rest of the roof. lol
