- Thread starter MrFluffy
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Similar top mounting to the RRC, I'm sure they had 2 holes to allow different widths of dampers?
I had DeCarbon gas dampers on mine.
I had DeCarbon gas dampers on mine.
colnerov
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Hi, The outer hole has a temporary pin put through to use the special tool to lever against to compress the rubber to put the split pin through the inner hole (a screwdriver or two can be substituted/utilised for this). Early RR's had two holes, later ones and coil sprung LR's had a threaded end for a nut.
Colin
well, been working like a monkey on it ready for controle today, and new shocks have transformed the ride and handling.
I pressed on and sorted the rear seatbelt mountings out, and made a fourth cushion up and duct taped it up as my mrs is on holiday and not available to do a proper job.
I don't think a career in upholstery beckons me, but it was together enough for the controle to see.
So I drove there today, 20km and the computer said no. Well more precisely there was a guy doing holiday cover, this was his first day, first test appointment and the normal tester was on a beach somewhere, and he didnt have a clue how to operate the online system to enter the ffve details.
He tried calling a few people, but no response, so its booked again for sat to give him time to research how to do it.
Fair do's, first test at a new job, newly qualified, and a english registered 101 rolls up with a load of bespoke supporting paperwork, nightmare for him.
After we redid the appointment, he came outside and was grinning at it, and asked if he could sit in it. Given he was supposed to be mot'ing it, of course! I offered him the keys but he said saturday for that so have a good feeling its going to be alright in the end. I got to bed the brakes in a bit more on the journey there and back and I'll adjust them up again and its starting to stop nicely now too.
Best of all is the noise, its this deep v8 purr, then you thwap the pedal and this enraged bellow comes out. Lovely, I even got used to the gearchange!
Gives me chance to get a few more jobs done better, as my good lady back from the UK tomorrow and she's bringing a few parts that have been sat at the brother in laws place because people didnt want to post them to France.
I pressed on and sorted the rear seatbelt mountings out, and made a fourth cushion up and duct taped it up as my mrs is on holiday and not available to do a proper job.
I don't think a career in upholstery beckons me, but it was together enough for the controle to see.
So I drove there today, 20km and the computer said no. Well more precisely there was a guy doing holiday cover, this was his first day, first test appointment and the normal tester was on a beach somewhere, and he didnt have a clue how to operate the online system to enter the ffve details.
He tried calling a few people, but no response, so its booked again for sat to give him time to research how to do it.
Fair do's, first test at a new job, newly qualified, and a english registered 101 rolls up with a load of bespoke supporting paperwork, nightmare for him.
After we redid the appointment, he came outside and was grinning at it, and asked if he could sit in it. Given he was supposed to be mot'ing it, of course! I offered him the keys but he said saturday for that so have a good feeling its going to be alright in the end. I got to bed the brakes in a bit more on the journey there and back and I'll adjust them up again and its starting to stop nicely now too.
Best of all is the noise, its this deep v8 purr, then you thwap the pedal and this enraged bellow comes out. Lovely, I even got used to the gearchange!
Gives me chance to get a few more jobs done better, as my good lady back from the UK tomorrow and she's bringing a few parts that have been sat at the brother in laws place because people didnt want to post them to France.
Well sat, and computer said yes after half a hour of wrestling with the menus and stuff for the tester, so it could start the test.
Because of the way the import process here happens, it has to be registered as a normal modern vehicle getting a normal vehicle test and then converted to a classic vehicle once registered.
So, modern vehicle controle with emissions testing, brake efficiency limits etc. It passed the emissions fine much to my shock, the damper performance was ok both front and rear, general tests all ok apart from the front alignment at 11degrees toe out (Ill fix that as theres beech fretting marks on the new tyre already from it too) but rolling brake tester was a different story.
Front was ok first go, rear efficiency was rather poor, sls drums, load proportioning valve etc. I wondered if loading up the rear to trigger the load proportioning valve to bias the rear brakes would improve things, but it only needed to be a few percentage points higher so I suggested military vehicle, its designed to be stamped on by big footed squaddies and perhaps he could push harder. He got the rh up 12% into the acceptable area, then while testing the left, the efficiency fell right off and when it was up on the ramp he called me over to see the fluid coming out the drum. So it looks like the rebuilt slave cylinder failed with the extra stress.And thats why we test things and why I'm happy to have my work validated by a independant set of eyes. Id rather it popped then than out on the road somewhere.
So, it failed, but only on rear brakes, seat mods all fine, welding good and rebuilt steering etc all ok. I've now got three months to fix it and take it back for a retest, but in the meantime I'm legal to drive once I've made the brakes function again, and legal to carry on with the process of registering it.
I've got another complete bearmach brand slave cylinder on the shelf brand new in anticipation I think, so its no biggie to change it which is where I'm heading now.
Because of the way the import process here happens, it has to be registered as a normal modern vehicle getting a normal vehicle test and then converted to a classic vehicle once registered.
So, modern vehicle controle with emissions testing, brake efficiency limits etc. It passed the emissions fine much to my shock, the damper performance was ok both front and rear, general tests all ok apart from the front alignment at 11degrees toe out (Ill fix that as theres beech fretting marks on the new tyre already from it too) but rolling brake tester was a different story.
Front was ok first go, rear efficiency was rather poor, sls drums, load proportioning valve etc. I wondered if loading up the rear to trigger the load proportioning valve to bias the rear brakes would improve things, but it only needed to be a few percentage points higher so I suggested military vehicle, its designed to be stamped on by big footed squaddies and perhaps he could push harder. He got the rh up 12% into the acceptable area, then while testing the left, the efficiency fell right off and when it was up on the ramp he called me over to see the fluid coming out the drum. So it looks like the rebuilt slave cylinder failed with the extra stress.And thats why we test things and why I'm happy to have my work validated by a independant set of eyes. Id rather it popped then than out on the road somewhere.
So, it failed, but only on rear brakes, seat mods all fine, welding good and rebuilt steering etc all ok. I've now got three months to fix it and take it back for a retest, but in the meantime I'm legal to drive once I've made the brakes function again, and legal to carry on with the process of registering it.
I've got another complete bearmach brand slave cylinder on the shelf brand new in anticipation I think, so its no biggie to change it which is where I'm heading now.
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Will they just check the brake efficiency or will it be a full re-test?
Just brake efficiency on the contra visit. Theres a few small advisories (number plates incorrect colours, corrosion but not holed on the exhaust, headlights too low, front toe out angle excessive) but only the brakes are marked as serious enough to requiring a contra visit to check.
I just checked I don't have a spare slave, I used it on the rh rear during rebuild work, so I've ordered slave cylinder + new shoes from the club shop because they will be contaminated and while I could burn them clean with a blowlamp, at 15quid a axle set for brake shoes they're not exactly going to blow the budget, so I'll still do that and keep them as spares for the future.
I just checked I don't have a spare slave, I used it on the rh rear during rebuild work, so I've ordered slave cylinder + new shoes from the club shop because they will be contaminated and while I could burn them clean with a blowlamp, at 15quid a axle set for brake shoes they're not exactly going to blow the budget, so I'll still do that and keep them as spares for the future.
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- Birmingham
octo0072000
Member
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- 6,033
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- south yorks
used to boil contaminated brake shoes in a pan with washing powder always worked
I normally set fire to them with a blow lamp, but for the price of them, I'll have a new axle set and keep these as good spares, as they do tend to go through brake shoes regular.
Put my order in for the new slave cylinders and brake shoes, 40 quid as I bought a spare spare to be sure and while I wait theres plenty of other bits n bobs to get on with.
First get the overdrive to where I can work on it, its been sat on the pallet at the entrance to the drive waiting for me to fix the busted throttle cable on the jcb and fork it, but I've got this dirty big gun tractor, that shouldnt even wince at dragging a few hundred kg to the barn? And so is the case
Next problem, the 101 never had a overdrive as stock, and the range rover lever mechanism is far far too rearwards to work, so we have to fabricate a new means of engaging it.
Get a old plasma cut piece of the harrison lathe stand thats been slowly cut up for metal for years now, its great quality stuff and weldable as they were welded originally. Its from my first l5 that turned out to be wrecked inside the headstock itself and wore out lots of other places. Bandsaw it into a strip, mill the back of it to clear the rear of the overdrive casing where it sticks out.
Weld a fulcrum point onto above part, and make up a bracket to carry the end of a original winch cable, which is designed to push and pull.
Now I just need to add a upright, pivoting on the lower fulcrum with a wobbly joint off to the overdrive to allow for the geometry changes when the lever swings, pulled by the clevis on the cable at the top and I have a 2:1 ratio lever mechanism.
I have a rhd winch lever to hand I got off someone and I'm going to hook it up as the overdrive engagement lever instead. There'd be a photo of it in place by now, but the spindle shaft on the transfer gear lever cluster is firmly seized solid, so I'm trying time + atf/acetone to soak it free before resorting to violence.
Put my order in for the new slave cylinders and brake shoes, 40 quid as I bought a spare spare to be sure and while I wait theres plenty of other bits n bobs to get on with.
First get the overdrive to where I can work on it, its been sat on the pallet at the entrance to the drive waiting for me to fix the busted throttle cable on the jcb and fork it, but I've got this dirty big gun tractor, that shouldnt even wince at dragging a few hundred kg to the barn? And so is the case
Next problem, the 101 never had a overdrive as stock, and the range rover lever mechanism is far far too rearwards to work, so we have to fabricate a new means of engaging it.
Get a old plasma cut piece of the harrison lathe stand thats been slowly cut up for metal for years now, its great quality stuff and weldable as they were welded originally. Its from my first l5 that turned out to be wrecked inside the headstock itself and wore out lots of other places. Bandsaw it into a strip, mill the back of it to clear the rear of the overdrive casing where it sticks out.
Weld a fulcrum point onto above part, and make up a bracket to carry the end of a original winch cable, which is designed to push and pull.
Now I just need to add a upright, pivoting on the lower fulcrum with a wobbly joint off to the overdrive to allow for the geometry changes when the lever swings, pulled by the clevis on the cable at the top and I have a 2:1 ratio lever mechanism.
I have a rhd winch lever to hand I got off someone and I'm going to hook it up as the overdrive engagement lever instead. There'd be a photo of it in place by now, but the spindle shaft on the transfer gear lever cluster is firmly seized solid, so I'm trying time + atf/acetone to soak it free before resorting to violence.
Whats funny about that is the tester was adjusting his beam tester rig and it hit the max height stops when it was just high enough for the bumper lights, and I remember thinking "good job its not a earlier forward control then"You could move them up a bit, Forward Control IIA style?...
I'll get me coat
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- 23,309
- Location
- Birmingham
What about a solenoid actuator for the O/D? just fit a switch to the gear lever/knob.
Nah, we want lots of big mechanical knobs festooning the cab to confuse people. There's so much travel in the gear lever mech and its so high its almost like driving one of ratfink's cars so its not like throwing a big lever to move things isnt too out of place
Patience with hi/lo shifter lever pivot expired, saw through pivot shaft and push it out the lever in hydraulic press, then make a new pivot shaft seemed the least destructive way of resolving. A half shaft donated a piece of suitable shaft barstock and it came out ok.
We now have 2 knobs in the cluster in addition to the regular gear lever. Thats getting more like it. Just need the capstan winch to justify a 3rd knob on the space right of the hi/lo shifter and we're sorted! The rusty brown stuff is copper slip, which is smeared profusely inside all the bushes that I will clean off when I get chance as its nasty stuff to have loose on the interior as it gets everywhere. The shift between hi/lo is a LOT smoother now too, now its not having to rotate the entire spindle in the housing that is! I've stuck a pool ball knob on for now but I have a cunning plan to enact for a much nicer knob to match.
Patience with hi/lo shifter lever pivot expired, saw through pivot shaft and push it out the lever in hydraulic press, then make a new pivot shaft seemed the least destructive way of resolving. A half shaft donated a piece of suitable shaft barstock and it came out ok.
We now have 2 knobs in the cluster in addition to the regular gear lever. Thats getting more like it. Just need the capstan winch to justify a 3rd knob on the space right of the hi/lo shifter and we're sorted! The rusty brown stuff is copper slip, which is smeared profusely inside all the bushes that I will clean off when I get chance as its nasty stuff to have loose on the interior as it gets everywhere. The shift between hi/lo is a LOT smoother now too, now its not having to rotate the entire spindle in the housing that is! I've stuck a pool ball knob on for now but I have a cunning plan to enact for a much nicer knob to match.
- Messages
- 23,309
- Location
- Birmingham
I dont have front and rear locking diffs yet, though one may be being jammed into the rear axle when funds permit.
Update on the paperwork, good lady went to sort it today on my behalf and apparently the rules have changed and now it needs a full clear controle before they register, but only for classics. And they can't point to the ruling on any site. But as is always the case with officialdom in France, no point arguing, just go back get a full controle then go back with box ticked.
So I've been playing with knobs.
Need something like this :-
And in order of acceptability, the rightmost one is solid abs and warped interlayer, next green one is abs but 24% infil, then white one is taulman nylon and the yellow is a resin repo one :-
Shapes not quite right, I could radius this out but I left a flat face to carry the graving detail & I didn't model the ridge round the middle which is apparently a distinctive feature of the originals not a cockup from moulding flash like I thought when I was drawing it up. I'm going to do another with the right shape and grave it afterwards with the mill instead. Being nylon its going to be as solid as a resin one. I think if I ran that off in a solid nylon and vapour smoothed it after to remove the striations, not many people would be able to tell the difference. Theyre 45 quid apiece for the green original powered trailer knobs to buy...
Update on the paperwork, good lady went to sort it today on my behalf and apparently the rules have changed and now it needs a full clear controle before they register, but only for classics. And they can't point to the ruling on any site. But as is always the case with officialdom in France, no point arguing, just go back get a full controle then go back with box ticked.
So I've been playing with knobs.
Need something like this :-
And in order of acceptability, the rightmost one is solid abs and warped interlayer, next green one is abs but 24% infil, then white one is taulman nylon and the yellow is a resin repo one :-
Shapes not quite right, I could radius this out but I left a flat face to carry the graving detail & I didn't model the ridge round the middle which is apparently a distinctive feature of the originals not a cockup from moulding flash like I thought when I was drawing it up. I'm going to do another with the right shape and grave it afterwards with the mill instead. Being nylon its going to be as solid as a resin one. I think if I ran that off in a solid nylon and vapour smoothed it after to remove the striations, not many people would be able to tell the difference. Theyre 45 quid apiece for the green original powered trailer knobs to buy...
Just another enthusiastic amateur. I have a linuxcnc powered bridgeport so these could be alloy machined from the same model when its right as proving model's what I use the 3d printer for the most, just plastic seems to be the right material choice in this case.
Update but not great progress
I reworked brake balance valve and put a few more km on bedding in brakes and the kids were desperate so took it round the block with one in passenger seat and other at home. On last fun run and daughter asks for a sneaky second run.
Then we are accelerating uphill and the temp gauges go mental. Overheated prob head gasket popped.
Then the rad exploded and i see steam by me leg from the access door. Then it fires open and the contents of cooling system violently pump into the cab. I try to hold the door shut so we dont get burnt but its so hot i only manage for a fraction of a second. Then it starts to pump into ny face lega ear etc. Everything went cloudy and then a sickening thump and sudden stop. We had ran off road into massive drainage ditch and hit a telegraph pole in there. I threw the battery isolator to cut risk of fire and assess situation . Daughter is screaming with big cur on knee and the whole front of 101 crushed trapping her. So i flag down a old lady and ask her to call fire brigade and run back to 101 to try calm amelia and remove canvas and side panels to improve access for emergency service. I call wife on cell after removing cover which melted in pocket. Everyone yelling at me to sit but i feel no pain but my hand wont work and skin hanging off like a latex glove . Pompiers arrive and use jaws of life to free amelia but i wouldnt let my ambi leave until she was out. Strip in ambi and im pretty burnt more than anyone realized. Amelia thank deity had only a small fracture to the kneecap and is home and walking short distances. I was assessed at 42% of my skin burnt with a mix of 1st and 2nd degree with 3rd to hand. Im posting from a special burns unit and most burns healing well and new skin on hand already and hopefully go home in a week or two. Handy being a tough old git though the first week was rough.
So get out here then the todo list includes the damage and some improvements to the cab with a fuĺl cage to stop the cab folding up on occupants.
I reworked brake balance valve and put a few more km on bedding in brakes and the kids were desperate so took it round the block with one in passenger seat and other at home. On last fun run and daughter asks for a sneaky second run.
Then we are accelerating uphill and the temp gauges go mental. Overheated prob head gasket popped.
Then the rad exploded and i see steam by me leg from the access door. Then it fires open and the contents of cooling system violently pump into the cab. I try to hold the door shut so we dont get burnt but its so hot i only manage for a fraction of a second. Then it starts to pump into ny face lega ear etc. Everything went cloudy and then a sickening thump and sudden stop. We had ran off road into massive drainage ditch and hit a telegraph pole in there. I threw the battery isolator to cut risk of fire and assess situation . Daughter is screaming with big cur on knee and the whole front of 101 crushed trapping her. So i flag down a old lady and ask her to call fire brigade and run back to 101 to try calm amelia and remove canvas and side panels to improve access for emergency service. I call wife on cell after removing cover which melted in pocket. Everyone yelling at me to sit but i feel no pain but my hand wont work and skin hanging off like a latex glove . Pompiers arrive and use jaws of life to free amelia but i wouldnt let my ambi leave until she was out. Strip in ambi and im pretty burnt more than anyone realized. Amelia thank deity had only a small fracture to the kneecap and is home and walking short distances. I was assessed at 42% of my skin burnt with a mix of 1st and 2nd degree with 3rd to hand. Im posting from a special burns unit and most burns healing well and new skin on hand already and hopefully go home in a week or two. Handy being a tough old git though the first week was rough.
So get out here then the todo list includes the damage and some improvements to the cab with a fuĺl cage to stop the cab folding up on occupants.
See if this works damn smartphone app browsers
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http://gallery.pipandphil.com/v/Vehicles/album09/Land+Rover+101FC/FB_IMG_1473497059030.jpg
http://gallery.pipandphil.com/v/Vehicles/album09/Land+Rover+101FC/FB_IMG_1473497059030.jpg
