Slow Skoda clutch pedal return

[brewdexta]

The wife has a 2006 skoda octavia 4x4 estate 1.9tdi with 6 speed box. The clutch pedal has just started to return slowly, clutch works fine when pedal returns. EDIT - now not returning unless you stick your toe under it.

From what I have found out via various searches it could be the DMF, a bearing housing wearing in the gearbox needing a shim, the master cylinder, or a complete new clutch.

Some poor souls are being told by main stealers it is crankshaft end float and you need a complete new engine . evidently one was told end float was 15cm!

Anyway, back to reality, evidently on the 6 speed boxes, getting to the master cylinder is not trivial as the bloke who makes sure cars are no longer easily serviceable decided it would be a cunning wheeze to stick the cylinder inside the clutch housing. I haven't got the time or inclination to do that and being the BH weekend all my local garages aren't taking on jobs until next week. The wife is away on a course and will be taking my car leaving me half way up a sodding great hill looking after the kids.

It's 10 years old and only done 62k and we've had it from new, serviced regularly, only other issue is air con is FUBAR, compressors aren't cheap. I'm wondering whether to stick a big spring on the clutch pedal and sell it or get it fixed

Anybody else had a similar issue with a similar VAG 6 speed box/clutch?

 

[rtbcomp]

Try a spot of oil on the pedal pivot.

 

[steveo3002]

its the slave thats in the box....should have a master up near the pedal area id imagine?

i was going to say fit a spring lol...have you tried bleeding it ?

 

[brewdexta]

Just been hanging upside down under the dash, I can see the brake master but not the clutch and the handbook only mentions brake fluid levels not clutch. I may need to take some of the dash out as the pivot etc. is hidden well up. I think I will ignore all the on-line chatter and start from first principles, for all I know it could be a cable clutch

 

[steveo3002]

http://etka.cc/

punch in the details on there and you can view the parts diagrams to help give an idea what to look for

 

[rikrobson]

The master Cylinder will be attachet to the other end of the pedal and is directly operated on by the pedal. The fluid is usually fed from the brake fluid resovoir and will be above the master. there will be a pipe/hose down to the clutch housing and then into the slave. this wil either be a concentric (fitted over the shaft) or actuating a leaver. If its the leaver its may be on the outside and accessible otherwise its off with the gearbox etc.
I'd be checking its not leaking somewhere. The clutch should be pushing back on the slave which then returns the fluid to the master and then returns the pedal. Any seal may have gone. Being a 4x4 its going to be interesting getting the gearbox off.
I suspect looking ECP that it may be a Concentric Slave Cylinder thats listed for special porpose (i'm reading 4x4). if it is then i'd be changing the clutch at the same time. I'd also consider the CVs and boots too as they are cheap as chips on a VAG and you'll be taking it all apart anyway.

Start with the master as it will be easier to get to, but there are 3 listed on the ECP site. If you put in your reg it may narrow it down.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

My guess is its the concentric slave cylinder, recently had the problem on my Renault Trafic with the exact same symptoms - New clutch kit including slave cylinder and fitting was £490.

 

[brewdexta]

Blimey, slave cylinder on my mini was a couple of quid, mind you that was nearly 40 years ago

 

[rikrobson]

clutch kit on ebay less than £200 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Oct...ctavia&hash=item5674412d63:g:oZwAAOSwU9xUSjEW

 

[brewdexta]

Thanks for your help guys

Just debating whether to do the clutch/cylinder etc. or use this as the ideal opportunity to change cars. The wife is putting up a good argument for a Skoda Yeti presently A big spring on clutch pedal and trade it in! I think I could get it to limp that far. Alternatively, my neighbour has the previous model and it recently died so he may want it if they offer peanuts on trade in.

My tight Yorkshire instincts tell me to keep it however with looking after the kids for 2 weeks while working away and dropping them off with grandparents I'm not sure I want to spend bank holiday weekend under the bonnet. If I hoiked it out this weekend, then the bits would arrive after the holiday, with work it would be next Saturday by the time I had chance to put it back in, assuming I had the right bits! That's when I get the kids back from their trip to Butlins with the grandparents.

We were waiting for the kids to get old enough to stop treating the back of the car like a skip before swapping it, the eldest is just about there, I don't think the younger one will ever be

Decisions, decisions!

 

[pedrobedro]

Kit on eBay is £301.95 with new DMF and slave included. It's going to be a pig of a job by the look of it.

 

[steveo3002]

hatefull job

 

[rikrobson]

Kit on eBay is £301.95 with new DMF and slave included. It's going to be a pig of a job by the look of it.

thats for a 2.0 not a 1.9

 

[rikrobson]

Are you able to do the work yourself? a garage will probably be £400 labour plus the parts (not ebay prices) so a bill of £800-1000 should be expected.

 

[brewdexta]

Are you able to do the work yourself? a garage will probably be £400 labour plus the parts (not ebay prices) so a bill of £800-1000 should be expected.

That's why the trade-in sounds like a plan, if I'm optimistic the cars is worth about 2K now, even though its low mileage and FSH ( not main stealers of course!) If I can get it to limp to the dealer then that should do it.

I am probably capable of doing it, however I'm so short of time at the moment with building work and work work and kids and trying to squeeze in a hobby that if I can avoid it I will. I was hoping it would be an easy fix, it's not looking like it......

 

[rikrobson]

if its the gearbox off its a big job especially with a transfer box to contend with.
Ive done a few fords in my time. you basically need the drive shafts of so thats the suspension appart and the shafts out of the hub. (a good time to check/replace the CVs and Boots).
then all the stuff that is in the way needs to be got out of the way. (on a mondeo this means the subframe!!!)
the engine mounts and gearbox mounts need undoing and the engine supported. you can usually leave the one on the opposite side of the engine fron the gearbox. then tilt the engine and gearbox down so it clears the suspension/subframe/inner wing and the pipes/hoses that you thought were long enough and unclip the hydaulic hose for the slave cylinder and find a way of stopping the brake fluild coming out all over the gearbox/you when you are under the car.. the car needs to be high enough to get the gearbox out, so you'll need to jack that up a bit more. then undo all the bell housing bolts. after that you need to attach the gearbox to a jack, because its alot heavier than you forst thought and try and pull it off. Then you hafe to find the bell housing bolt you missed dand undo that. the gearbox will then come separate from the engine with a fight. Drag the gearbox out the way and replace the CSC attached to the inside of the bell housing.
Now you can see the clutch. find a way of locking it as it will rotate the engine as they are torqued hugher than the free movement of the engine. if you undo them accross the centre of the clutch its less force on the crank (so your ratchet points inwards as oppose to outwards). once the screws are loos the plate will drop in the pressure plate. throw them out.
find our cluch centering tool and align the friction plate with the pressure plate. if you can find the tool then various sockets in extension wrapped in tape will do, but the engine will need a spigot bearing to centre it all on. attempt to put the pressure plate back on the flywheel and tighten it up. check the centricity of the friction plate find out the tool is **** and take it all of and do it again. once you've got it all lines up (hint the gearbox will not go on if the alignment is wonkey)
then you can get the gearbox back on. so back on the jack and line its up and it should pop on, but it wont because what you thought was all lines up wasn't so unbdo the pressure plate and relighn the friction plate. now refit the gearbox.
do up all the bell housing bolts (it it has locating dowels sometimes these are tight and the gearbox needs pinching up with the bolts.) then look for the missing one, find it and realise its shorter then the thread. swap then all over until you find the one the correct size and remember that some go towards the engine and some towards the gearbox if you have some left over. Hoy the engine and gearbox back up level and secure to the mounts. then put evertything to took off bak. Realise that a hose needed to go the other side if the gearbox and drop it again to get the hose on the other side. once its all back together and no leftover bits you'll need to bleed the clutch (just like the brakes). then put the drive shafts and the suspension back together. fit the wheels and off you go.
OR
sell the car and get a new one

 

[doubleboost]

Horrible job 7 hours to do the clutch & master cylinder
That is on a 2 post hoist with all the gear & I do it for a living

 

[brewdexta]

Horrible job 7 hours to do the clutch & master cylinder
That is on a 2 post hoist with all the gear & I do it for a living

So that's my workshop activity curtailed for the next four weekends!

 

[brewdexta]

OR
sell the car and get a new one

I think I will select option 2!

 

[rikrobson]

I think I will select option 2!

Thats just lazy

Horrible job 7 hours to do the clutch & master cylinder
That is on a 2 post hoist with all the gear & I do it for a living

John can give you a quote and make a vidoe of it