Help choosing a router

[malcolm]

I want a router but haven't got around to justifying one. I need to do some biscuit joints next week to make joins in a new facia board look reasonable which is why I'm thinking about it now. I've got a fair bit of door fitting to do (hinges as well as locks), need to build a kitchen at some point (hopefully I'll be able to put it off for a third year), and I'm a big fan of wood mouldings. Most of mine are being spindle moulded by carpenters but there are bound to be a few little bits I'll want to fettle.

Having read a bit on here I'm guessing a 2kW 1/2 inch would be a good plan. I've never used one before and don't really have any clue about what they can do, which ones will have a decent tool supply in a few years time when I think of something else to do, and if any can make fitting a lock easier than one of those cutting things on a drill and hours of chiseling. I'm new to wood too really but learning.

Any thoughts about what I should be looking for? Or tips about how to find out what a router can do?

 

[DanielW]

Erm,whats your price tag?

Routers don't do biscuit joints,thats a seperate powertool.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I have a Bosch one [can't remember collet/HP size without checking , but it looks like this

which I modded to use with a router table, so that I can adjust depth without removing from the table etc.

It's done all I've asked of it, but may not be up to what you'll need in the future.

 

[tlovatt]

In an ideal world get more than 1.

I have several (well 6) ranging from a small palm router through to a table mounted 2kw unit but it really depends what you want to do.

For large profiles (not as large as a spindle moulder but big enough for my needs) I use a 2kw 1/2 inch Triton mounted in a router table. It has a big advantage as they are designed so they can be fitted in a table with height adjustment by turning the handle plus a find adjustment. But its not a good router to use hand held due to its size and if it picks up on anything you could be in trouble.

For larger hand held jobs I have a smaller (also Triton) 1kw 1/2 inch router that strikes a balance of power, stability and manoeuvrability.

When I can get away with it I use 1/4 inch routers as they are lighter, far simpler to handle and easier to control

For all the expensive routers I have, my favourite is an old Black and Decker fixed speed 1/4 inch light and manoeuvrable router is my favourite and I only use larger ones when I have to. Trend have copied it (and added variable speed) and called it the T4

For some good quality reasonable priced bits check out Rutlands - they have some great bit sets

 

[Robotstar5]

Routers don't do biscuit joints,thats a seperate powertool.

You can get biscuit slot cutters for routers, I think mine is a Trend one, bought a proper biscuit jointer tool later though.

 

[malcolm]

Thanks, so the big ones have a bit of a kick? I have a 9 inch angle grinder I don't use because I'm frightened of it (it isn't good for working at heights out of position) so don't want a scary router too. I'm not planning a router table at the moment, just hand held, but a fence would be very useful.

 

[the snooper]

As said on post 2 you need a biscuit jointer to do those joints

 

[DanielW]

Scary router?
You need a 1/2" jobby if you're cutting worktops and using large moulding cutters.
You will need a 1/4" if its just routing out door hinges and small jobs.

I've used my ryobi ert1500 to route 19mm aluminium block,didn't even sweat but I'm not bothered as I've given up on the woodwork side now.

Got some 1/2" shank brand new large moulding bits for sale.

 

[the snooper]

The big routers don't kick like a 9 inch angle grinder as they don't have a big disc to get moving

 

[mike os]

The usual brands are all adequate. ... my preference is bosch pro, but don't know what about as mine are all at least 10 years old

They don't really grab and are unlikely to kick in real use , there is obviously some reaction as with any power tool but it is perfectly controllable

1/2 inch for worktops but 1/4 is better for light work as everything is lighter

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Most powerful quality tools have soft start so look for that.

Doing moldings you need variable speed on the bigger cutters and can be useful for difficult materials

Good plunge for kitchen fitting

For hinge sinking I use a small hand trimmer this is also best for trimming edging on worktops as they are easier to control

I have two biscuit joiners but use one of the routers. I may try the Festool domino next time

 

[DanielW]

Is the router tool I have that says 'biscuit joint cutter' on the packet not suitable for cutting biscuit joints? What about the slots I've cut with it that I've put biscuits in, are they not biscuit joints?

Yeah but with a dedicated biscuit jointer its just a matter of plunge and cut,those bits you're on about are really not biscuit joint bits,I was getting peeved off with with what your saying so went an bought the Aldi biscuit jointer for £25 never looked back.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Oh it's easier with a proper jointer - but bear in mnd I bought a packet of 100 biscuits in ~2004 and I have over 80 of them left...

Biscuits have a best before date but not good value in your case

 

[the snooper]

Is the router tool I have that says 'biscuit joint cutter' on the packet not suitable for cutting biscuit joints? What about the slots I've cut with it that I've put biscuits in, are they not biscuit joints?



They still react when they start up (most bigger ones have soft start to reduce that though) and they can and do catch sometimes, without the long handles

never seen a biscuit blade for one so I sand corrected but dedicated machines are easy to use

 

[DanielW]

never seen a biscuit blade for one so I sand corrected but dedicated machines are easy to use

Its fiddly and more of a hindrence than a help.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/PWE150301_QA2.jpg

 

[the snooper]

Its fiddly and more of a hindrence than a help.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/PWE150301_QA2.jpg

never looked for one as I have a dedicated machine but as you say I can imagine it being more fiddly not being able to just plunge in

 

[Hitch]

Be a bit cautious on the model you choose, When it comes to fitting specific bushes for use with guides/jigs and such, some may require an extra universal base.

I use a 1/4" Draper expert (Rebadged Trend T5) which takes the more common guide bushes. Had it for about 10 years, and gets a reasonable amount of use.

For heavier stuff, i use one of the old Hitachi 1/2" ones, A great powerful workhorse. But the bushing setup is different...

As mentioned, for light mouldings, hinges etc, a 1/4" is the way forward... for template routing 1" boards for fancy roof line trims and worktops, 1/2" is the way ahead. 1/4" cutters can be put in 1/2" machines, but the physical size/weight becomes a pain.

I havnt really looked into changing either, so not too up on what makes and models have what bases.
That aside, there is always the Trend universal sub base to eliminate the problem.

 

[HughF]

I have fixed base and plunge in 1/4 and 1/2. I use the fixed base for 90% of work as I don't cut worktops...

 

[bigegg]

Elu mof range for me-now rebadged as dewalt. I own 4 of them, plus a bosch 900ace and a 1970s b&d
Can be picked up 2nd hand on the bay for sub 100 quid-they last forever, but spares are readily available anyway.

+1 for a trend universal base.
And YOU WILL want a table before long!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

It's the Trend base I have too - do all my routing on it. [^^ no worktops either]