Making the garage more hospitable

[Highway_Star]

A follow on from my previous post about building a garage.

The garage at the place we're moving to is 22’ 10” x 19’ 4” (6.98m x 5.90m. Height is about 8'.

It's breeze built with a felted slightly pitched flat roof, so the roof structure is what looks like OSB over joists.

I've secured a good deal on floor paint and plan to paint concrete floor before moving in.

I'd like to insulate the place to make it warmer to work in and also help reduce any condensation. I'm planning to move my late dad's lathe etc in due course.

I've a half assed plan to dryline using insulated plaster board or possibly plywood (being a garage the walls may get knocked)

There's such a wealth of know how on this board, as ever I'd value your thoughts.

 

[Screwdriver]

If I was doing mine again, I'd have about 1 inch of insulation between battens and OSB or 18mm ply over that. You can find full sheets and half sheets free from the roadside. All you need is a sharp pair of eyes, a van and about six months skip dipping and knocking on doors, builder sites etc. That's how I did my roof and I put six inch deep Celotex between the rafters too. All free.

S.

 

[Highway_Star]

So the Gyproc is standing up OK?

That's roughly where I was heading, batons to create a cavity, fileld with rockwool (possibly loft insulation in roll form as it's **** cheap), sheeted with insulated plasterboard. I hadn't considered the vapour barrier.

I'd spray the PB white with cheap emulsion.

Then I'll need some nice architrave and a ceiling rose

 

[vw1]

I take it all this is on a single block wall ?

 

[Screwdriver]

I still recommend OSB or ply because you'll be wanting to use the walls for shelves and storage solutions. Since my walls are bare blockwork, I gripfill sheets of board so I can easily screw in fittings and fixtures wherever I want. If you use plasterboard, you can still pull the same trick I guess, just glue and screw some big sheets....

 

[gaz1]

if breeze block built becareful is the cement overcoat doing its job correctly are they any cracks in the cement basically anything that could let water get through

there is also a water repellent that can be painted on cement walls

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474

 

[vw1]

if breeze block built becareful is the cement overcoat doing its job correctly are they any cracks in the cement basically anything that could let water get through

there is also a water repellent that can be painted on cement walls

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474

Well its not built yet in two mind about wood built work shop or block built but it will be 140mm single skin block or 19mm T+G

 

[DanielW]

I'd like to insulate the place to make it warmer to work in and also help reduce any condensation. I'm planning to move my late dad's lathe etc in due course.

I've a half assed plan to dryline using insulated plaster board or possibly plywood (being a garage the walls may get knocked)

There's such a wealth of know how on this board, as ever I'd value your thoughts.

Go to the kingspan website,they have a tutorial on the insulating and damproofing a garage.

 

[the snooper]

Well its not built yet in two mind about wood built work shop or block built but it will be 140mm single skin block or 19mm T+G

go for block, more secure & it wont rot

 

[Paulbarrett]

Definitely 7N blocks, lightweight breeze are no good for a single skin garage. It'll still need rendering it at least painting to seal against rain percolating through like mine does atmo, oops

 

[Shox Dr]

If this is a fresh build. I'd look into insulated box profile roof sheet. You can pick up over run, damaged, 2nds etc.
Starting around £12 per meter. Fast to erect, good security, high insulation value. Low maintenance and a long life span, make it ideal.

Ive built a few, cladding them in feather board, ship lath etc. You cant tell it from a garden shed.

 

[vw1]

Well its not built yet but it will be 140mm single skin block ..

go for block, more secure & it wont rot

Yes block and not the light block , only problem I have is the slab is already down for a wooden shed at 7ftx18ft without footings for a block workshop as base was for a wood shed but have changed my mind..

Sorry for jumping in..

 

[Paulbarrett]

Wood is fine. Treated timber stud 4x2, Ship lap clad, I'd use rockwool Or slab type rockwool, Cellotex is expensive but better still.Vapour barrier, then ply line with 18mm or satin board to give good fixing for shelving and add to insulation.

 

[Screwdriver]

Yes block and not the light block , only problem I have is the slab is already down for a wooden shed at 7ftx18ft without footings for a block workshop as base was for a wood shed but have changed my mind..

Sorry for jumping in..

Got any room for some footings around the outside? You wouldn't need much though it would be a chore to dig a narrow trench

 

[vw1]

Wood is fine. Treated timber stud 4x2, Ship lap clad, I'd use rockwool Or slab type rockwool, Cellotex is expensive but better still.Vapour barrier, then ply line with 18mm or satin board to give good fixing for shelving and add to insulation.

About the vapour barrier is it plastic or foil ? does it go over the rockwool ?

 

[vw1]

Its just polythene sheet, DPM is a much thicker and heavier in weight version

Outside to inside
exterior wall -> insulation -> VB -> interior sheeting

I stuck 2 fan grills in the side of mine that faces away from the wind, even without the extractors wired in, its a lot drier in there (was getting severe condensation before insulating and the air smelt...moist)

Thank you and I will make sure I have two extractor fans ..

 

[Paulbarrett]

As above, and yes good ventilation is essential to prevent damp and mould growth, especially timber build

 

[vw1]

Yes all advice taken on board . Can I do the same with roof ?

 

[gaz1]

if i was building a new shed then it would be concrete blocks not built in wood for any type of storage area and more so with an expensive lathe in it

im lucky mines built in engineering bricks a swine to break or chip off but is only 11ft x 9ft and all im doing in strengthening the structure and a steel door has been fitted dual locks for the door

another post done in blocks

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/workshop-glorified-shed.55821/page-3

 

[vw1]

if i was building a new shed then it would be concrete blocks not built in wood for any type of storage area and more so with an expensive lathe in it

im lucky mines built in engineering bricks a swine to break or chip off but is only 11ft x 9ft and all im doing in strengthening the structure and a steel door has been fitted dual locks for the door

another post done in blocks

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/workshop-glorified-shed.55821/page-3

Thank you but only problem I have now is that the base was laid for a wood shed 7ft x 18ft so I have no footings for block shed . Base is 5ich deep can I get away with laying blocks on the base ? or will weight be to much and am I asking for trouble in the long run. It would have to be single skin as its only 7ft wide ..