Tool wrap, oil , preserver ?

[ronan]

I went out to the shed earlier to look for a reamer i wanted to do a job with. The state of a couple of them shocked me as they were covered with rust. I only buy quality stuff, taylor and jones, presto, hall etc and always keep them in their plastic sleeves in a drawer in a tool chest.

What do you use to keep rust off your drills, reamers, measuring tools etc ? Anything with a fine ground finish. I was simply using the soluble oil that they get covered with when being used, making sure they were well covered before putting them away. Tonight i covered them with cheap clean motor oil i use for odd jobs. Is there something better ?

 

[MattF]

bit of greaseproof paper and give them a thin coating of moly / other thick grease?

The greaseproof paper and a light coating of oil before wrapping them is a method I use when packing away parts I've derusted, if I'm not going to be using them for a while. Seems to work okay. Lanolin based sprays are also supposed to be quite good for preservation.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Just had the same problem today with my wood plane and chisels and I was sure I had coated them with some light machine oil before winter, took me ages to get them decent again.

I have used a smear of marine grease this time..here's hoping

 

[Rig Pig]

Light oil and and insulated workshop.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Engine oil. Gets everywhere well and isn't as messy as grease.

 

[julianf]

Somthing like wd40 or plusgas in a zip-lock bag, with a bit of kitchen tissue paper in there. Paper mops up / releases the excess oil.

I only do that for important stuff though.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Somthing like wd40 or plusgas in a zip-lock bag, with a bit of kitchen tissue paper in there. Paper mops up / releases the excess oil.

I only do that for important stuff though.

I wonder if the ziplock bag is the key factor, keeps the atmosphere away from the tool, I have tried WD40 and not had much luck to be honest.

 

[julianf]

Probably. Would probably do even without the oil.

...but then you know how paintbrushes wrapped in cling still go hard? That may be hydrocarbon migration (through the plastic) though, rather than air.


ps. the only reason i know about hydrocarbon migration is because of biodiesel - its not like id know for any other reason! : )

 

[brightspark]

Probably. Would probably do even without the oil.

...but then you know how paintbrushes wrapped in cling still go hard? That may be hydrocarbon migration (through the plastic) though, rather than air.


ps. the only reason i know about hydrocarbon migration is because of biodiesel - its not like id know for any other reason! : )

wrap em in evidence plastic bags then and theres no chace of migration

 

[brewdexta]

best stuff I have found so far, without being too messy is Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50

I tried it over the winter on my machinery and it was the only stuff that stood up to repeated condensation. Its waxed based, a quick wipe over with a rag with some panel wipe or WD40 on it and it comes off.

 

[MattH]

ACF-50?

 

[brewdexta]

ACF-50?

I was going to try that but it sounded similar to the Bilt Hamber stuff and more expensive

 

[gordon stephenson]

We always used Shell Ensis fluid on Turbine journals and any other finely finished steel. Also used a lot of Denso tape and Denso paste, Excellent stuff but a bit messy, but gets the job done,

 

[norlander]

I was going to try that but it sounded similar to the Bilt Hamber stuff and more expensive

I have some ACF 50 and have had it for about 5/6 years, I squirt a bit in the plastic top of a rattle can, then apply it with an old toothbrush. I got 2 cans in a deal some years back, and am still one the first can.

I am also a fan of Scottoil 365 http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/Lubes-...sion-Protector-1-Litre-spray/flypage.tpl.html

I also like this stuff and prefer it over the scottoil but have difficulty getting it out here http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/protective-sprays/wurth-corrosion-inhibitor-1-litre .

ACF-50 smeggy stuff, attracts dust etc, needs to be cleaned off tools before use

365, easy to apply-spray on to cloth and wipe, or,wrap item in cloth/kitchen towel etc, faint waxy coat after evaporation, not tried it for keeping tools rust free

Wurth, easy to apply, leaves faint waxy coat.

Having said all that, some blokes use pledge furniture spray polish, but never tried it.

One point that may be relevant, is that when the Wurth/ACF/365 are used on motorcycles, the bikes are washed down before use, and the shampoo products themselves often have a corrosion inhibitor.

Maybe clean tools off with a degreasing agent or something before applying anti corrosion kit?

 

[Kent]

The thing is something has to be properly clean before you put any oils or waxes onto it. If you want to stop things migrating though tell them they cant get free NHS and other benefits till they have paid British taxes on 50k worth of earnings- job sorted!

 

[Rig Pig]

This is all treating the symptoms not the problem, condensation is caused by rapid tempriture changes, insulation will go a long way to preventing it and won't leave you with horrible greasy muck all over your tools / machines. There was an article in MEW a few years ago about a chap who built a polystyrene box to go over his lathe to stop it rusting, I think he put a tiny heater in as well.

 

[optima21]

I don't have too much of a rust problem in my garage, I did try cleaning things with an oil rag before putting them away but then changed to using a 1" paintbrush with a couple few drops of oil on it, so its just enough to give a film coating to the metal, and will get into all the nooks and crannies like an oily wrag wont. if they are small enough I keep them in plastic compartment boxes. these accessories for my milling machine have been stored like that since last autumn. (the rust spots are from years ago, when the tools were left in the open). I have been using them during the winter too.

best stuff I have found so far, without being too messy is Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50

I tried it over the winter on my machinery and it was the only stuff that stood up to repeated condensation. Its waxed based, a quick wipe over with a rag with some panel wipe or WD40 on it and it comes off.

I've been using S-50 on my cars for 4 years now and it seems to work better for me (in terms of rust containment than other brands that I've used previously)

 

[ronan]

Thanks for all the replies. The thing is i had little or no condensation problems last winter in the shed for some reason. Any tools like morse taper drills that were left in the same tool chest drawer, but uncovered , as the reamers and drills that rusted were fine. I assumed that because i'd brushed them with the soluble oil i use for cutting oil/coolant when i finished with them on the lathe, drill etc, that they would be protected.
I'll try the bilt hamber dynax stuff, wd40 i find useless for rust protection.

 

[brightspark]

thats bad news covering them in watered down soluble oil . thats your problem

 

[brewdexta]

I just checked in the shed, its this stuff I'm using, Dynax UB, similar.