Calling the electroncs guys.

[ukracer]

A mate of mine wants a temp controller for a power coating over. He asked me about using this but I am not sure 40 amps is enough and or how it all would wire up. I think you could say I have a brain fart ALL DAY.. lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181676876837?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[brightspark]

use the controller and buy a larger contactor it can be any amperage u want as the controller will only energise the contactor coil

 

[DanielW]

A mate of mine wants a temp controller for a power coating over. He asked me about using this but I am not sure 40 amps is enough and or how it all would wire up. I think you could say I have a brain fart ALL DAY.. lol

An appliance will only draw the maximium ampererage/current it needs so if your appliance requires 5amps thats what it will draw from any power supply of 6amps and over,not all appliences draw the max amperage/current as its a tech spec and is normally rated to draw less than the stated amperage/current

 

[Digger6135]

A mate of mine wants a temp controller for a power coating over. He asked me about using this but I am not sure 40 amps is enough and or how it all would wire up. I think you could say I have a brain fart ALL DAY.. lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181676876837?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

You can buy temperature controilers quite cheaply, buy one with a SSR output then buy a soild state relay to suit the maximum current you are likely need they can be obtained in several amperages, wiring up is easy.

Digger6135

 

[ukracer]

You can buy temperature controilers quite cheaply, buy one with a SSR output then buy a soild state relay to suit the maximum current you are likely need they can be obtained in several amperages, wiring up is easy.

Digger6135

wiring would be if I knew what it needs. Its the fact its says 12 volt and 240 volt that has me. I cant see how these SSR work.

 

[richie00boy]

12 volts is the trigger. 240 volts is what it can switch.

 

[Robotstar5]

wiring would be if I knew what it needs. Its the fact its says 12 volt and 240 volt that has me. I cant see how these SSR work.

Think of an SSR as a normal relay or contactor with no moving parts, the one you linked to has a "coil" voltage of 3-32VDC so covers the popular 5, 12 & 24V voltages. The SSR will switch 24 - 380V AC through it's "contacts" so will be OK to use on 240V AC.

 

[ukracer]

Think of an SSR as a normal relay or contactor with no moving parts, the one you linked to has a "coil" voltage of 3-32VDC so covers the popular 5, 12 & 24V voltages. The SSR will switch 24 - 380V AC through it's "contacts" so will be OK to use on 240V AC.

its the 12 vots tats the issue. The oven does not have 12 volts so I guess we need a power supply. BUT also the SSR only has two sets of connections. I cant see how we could wire the temp sender or does it go direct to the temp controller and not the SSD. SO two wires from Temp controller to the SSD on the twelve volt side but the other side of the SSD only has three connectors so I cant see how it can control 240 vlts to the heater in the oven/

 

[500e]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-PID-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-max-40A-SSR-K-Thermocouple-Sensor/251819031798?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140407115239&meid=ac57e17f8bfa4b158785f0e8509d6f15&pid=100204&rk=7&rkt=30&sd=350918170368
Is the output SSR at correct voltage ? seems strange to supply a system controller, relay, + sensor\thermocouple & require you to supply another module to operate.
Never used one of these so only a suggestion

 

[ukracer]

AH I might have it sussed almost...the output side of things I think I have now. Its only ONE wire is broken in the 240 volt supply....If I am right i just need to see a temp controller to see how thats wired and if I am right I need a power supply to use it!

 

[daleyd]

Are you referring to the control voltage for the ssr? This should be generated by the pid controller, just wire 240 volts to the controller and take wires from the output to the ssr.

The ssr will then switch the 240 volts for the heating element.

 

[Robotstar5]

If the controller will work on 24VDC (standard industrial control voltage) I'm sure I've got some power supplies around if you need one?.

 

[daleyd]

I think its a 240 volt controller, cant see 24 v mentioned anywhere in the specs for the original one other than the control volts for the ssr being 3-32 volts.

 

[graffian]

SSR is a solid state relay, to run in PID mode you need a solid state relay, you can't switch a mechanical
contactor off and on fast enough. I run in on/off mode and it swings maybe 5ºC, I would expect it to be steady in PID mode.

The whole oven should be switched by a contactor, the contactor enables you to turn it all off; I have
half a dozen SSRs and I checked them all and they all have some leakage[pretty small].

The SSR lets the PID switch the element on and off at whatever frequency it needs to to control the Temperature.

You need mains for the elements and the other items it all depends on your set up is. If you have an SSR
you will need low voltage in the oven, so you have the choice of low voltage or high voltage PIDs. If you
intend on running in on/off mode you can use a mains contactor, so you don't need low voltage for
anything.

I used a din rail power supply for my low voltage, another 99p ebay bargain. But you could get away with a wall wart.

Another thing to watch for is some PIDs actually have relay outputs, I mean relays with
contacts and I guess they can't switch an SSR fast enough for PID mode?

So with what you listed you just need a power supply and a contactor[or just unplug the oven;-)] to get an oven running.

any of that make any sense?

 

[daleyd]

I don't think you need a separate power supply with the ones ukracer has listed. You supply 240 volt to the pid controller which generates internally the dc control voltage for the ssr.

You shouldn't need a separate power supply. You would need a separate supply if you were switching say a 24 volt contactor, as this would require a relay output from the pid controller.

 

[julianf]

I have a pid and SSR on my biodiesel reactor. Mine is not the Rex unit by I know others who use them. The unit will do what you want -

You wire 240v ac to both the controller and the SSR. The output of the SSR is low voltage and wired to the input of the SSR.

The SSR is only single pole. So it only switches the live, not the neutral as well.

 

[julianf]

PS
You can get controllers that will run from low voltage DC, but the one on the link states its input range, and its not a low voltage unit (they are less common on eBay, and more money)

 

[daleyd]

Here is an extract from one of our product manuals, though the pid controller would be different the principle is the same. 240 volts supply is all that's needed, the output (low voltage) to the ssr is generated internally within the pid controller.

I can send you the complete manual if you want, though as I say it is for a different controller than the one you are buying (Ours typically have a lot more features like communications, extra IO etc)

Dale

 

[500e]

daleyd
Glad I was correct in my reading of the controller brain still working at reasonable level despite WWS & alot of years

 

[daleyd]

Yes, the wording on some of the ebay descriptions can be vague to say the least, a diagram can help a lot I usually find.

You can get some good information on our website for stuff like this, www.eurotherm.co.uk (Shameless plug!)