Metal suggestion for 6x4 trailer base?

[julianf]

Our trailer needs attention.

Its a 6x4 - i assume an ex council plant trailer. Its along similar lines to this one, but WAY more rusty, and with some more angle section along the base of the tub -

Chassis on it is fine, sides are mostly fine. Base is done for. Suspension was fine till last week (which is why im finally getting around to it now!)



My plan was to get an 8x4 of galvenised, and drill and bolt it onto the angle that runs around the base.

Do you think that's as good an idea as any, and what sort of thickness? I was thinking around 2mm?
(it needs to work, but i dont want to go overkill as it will get heavy - so its a weight, rather than money choice)

 

[wyn]

A galv sheet could turn out to be very slippery with a bit of rain on it.

Something with a bit of grip may be better.

 

[MoreWellie]

never thought about galv sheet, mine is done with 12mm exterior ply and then coated in sadolin. It seems to last a good few years even when left outside. I guess the thickness of sheet depends on the weights and shapes you are likely to carry. If it is soil/sand etc. then the weight distributes nicely, if it is an engine resting on a sump plug then the galv sheet is likely to distort.

What thickness/type was the old material as that would give you a good idea

 

[brightspark]

A galv sheet could turn out to be very slippery with a bit of rain on it.

Something with a bit of grip may be better.

it would but all i do in mine is a sacrificial piece of ply on top sat in and a rubber mat it saves damaging the floor as well

 

[BrokenBiker]

my fathers trailer has some wood screwed down onto the steel floor

 

[Cyberprog]

IIRC they are normally marine ply, with a textured surface.

 

[Robotstar5]

Phenolic ply trailer floor - link

 

[julianf]

Phenolic ply trailer floor - link

Youtch - that's a whole 50p more than i paid for the trailer! ; )

Joking apart, im going to have to spend many multiples of my purchase price on the suspension units, so i want somthing worth having at the end of it all. I remember my mum's ifor williams has that floor also, but im still tempted by a sheet of galvanised that i can get within walking distance, and be getting on with.

Good call on looking at the original thickness. If i were smart, id have thought of that! Original floor was sheet, but then maybe the rust / holes gave it extra texture / grip?

 

[W.olly]

Having refurbed loads of trailers i would go Glav sheet, with some tie downs welded on aswell 3 down each side, with that i would have a sheet of Buffalo board/hex board or the likes even cheap ply will do to sit in when you need, easy to store aswell. cut it to just sit in nice and easy removable then aswell. you get the best of both worlds. If you dont want to go the buffalo board aswell then when carrying anything of heavy weight as an axle/engine you just block up with 3x2 timber and strap down, you will regret not fitting internal tie downs, all of a 30 min job whilst your at it, there is no splipping around with anything then, dont weld then on the outer frame as they will just buckle over time and damage the straps.

 

[sparkysy]

I've done a couple of trailer floors in the past, we used perri board it's quite heavy but damn strong and lasted a good few years, can be bl++dy slippy though!

 

[julianf]

dont weld then on the outer frame as they will just buckle over time and damage the straps.

Can you go into this some more?

If i go for sheet metal, i was going to cut out the old base, and drill and bolt the new sheet in place - no welding, as i figure ill just burn through the galvanizing anyhow.

So, if im bolting down to angle or box, im guessing id bolt the tie downs to the same angle? But id like to get somthing that will fold flat(ish) otherwise it will just get twatted by whatever junk im chucking in there.

 

[brightspark]

Can you go into this some more?

If i go for sheet metal, i was going to cut out the old base, and drill and bolt the new sheet in place - no welding, as i figure ill just burn through the galvanizing anyhow.

So, if im bolting down to angle or box, im guessing id bolt the tie downs to the same angle? But id like to get somthing that will fold flat(ish) otherwise it will just get twatted by whatever junk im chucking in there.

these are what u need then https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=recessed+trailer+hold+down+loops

 

[Cyberprog]

Phenolic ply trailer floor - link

Aye, that's the bad boy I was thinking of! Someone told me it was marine ply once I think!

 

[W.olly]

Can you go into this some more?

If i go for sheet metal, i was going to cut out the old base, and drill and bolt the new sheet in place - no welding, as i figure ill just burn through the galvanizing anyhow.

So, if im bolting down to angle or box, im guessing id bolt the tie downs to the same angle? But id like to get somthing that will fold flat(ish) otherwise it will just get twatted by whatever junk im chucking in there.

I was meaning that if you weld tie downs to the outer frame either lower chasssi rale or top frame in time they will bend in with being used to tying down on. Bolting is fine and the ones brightspark has put up will do the job. even ones that stand proud will be fine as they are solid built and wont damage, but still better if you fit flush ones.

 

[julianf]

I think, if i have a metal base, these would do me best -

as then i can bolt them to the angle along the edge, and they can spin as required. They dont look hugely tough though.

If i go with a wood base, ill get the round recessed ones.

 

[fatfranky]

The problem with non flush ones is that they are a pain if you need to shovel or slide something over them! Friend of mine has a nice Brian James trailer and it has oval shaped holes in the floor, with a sort of springy flap beneath to cover them when not used, clearly they have been engineered for the job and probably reinforced but food for thought

Regards

 

[MoreWellie]

just a thought but as you have angle around the corners could you bolt the tie downs to the vertical face of the bottom rail rather than the horizontal face as that would keep them out of the way if shovelling. Unfortunately I have no idea whether they would take the same strain in this plane, it will depend on their individual design

alternatively fit them right in the corners so that at least three bolts would be through the angle frame

 

[julianf]

The way its constructed, the angle goes up, and then toward the center - ie the angle is 100% below the bed, rather than up the side at all.

Im right in thinking that a sheet of that ply stuff will be considerably heavier than a sheet of 2mm (ish) galvanised, right?

 

[Robotstar5]

Drill holes in the floor and weld nuts onto a stiffening plate below the hole, then use dynamo bolts when required.

 

[Rocketman]

Robostar you probably know but you can't use any angular loads on dynamo bolts.