Hi guys, I have never owned an electric polisher and I see this one at a reasonable price with all the bits shown in the picture. As I have never used one would someone be kind enough to explain what each of the different pads and sponges are for?
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steveo3002
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differant brands use differant colours to id
lambs wool agresive cut
hard foam cut
softer foam polish
very soft finishing pad (thats the black bumpy one
lambs wool agresive cut
hard foam cut
softer foam polish
very soft finishing pad (thats the black bumpy one
marlinspike
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The different colour pads usually represent different levels of abrasion. Depending on the state of your body work, you would start with the least abrasive pad, progressing to a more abrasive one if the first didn't correct the swirls, minor scratches etc.
I am not familiar with that kit, but if you look on Detailing World there is loads of advice on the best polishers and products. A bit overwhelming on the info front tbh, though they often recommend the Das 6 Pro, which is around £100 if you get it on the DW deal:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=207877
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php
I am not familiar with that kit, but if you look on Detailing World there is loads of advice on the best polishers and products. A bit overwhelming on the info front tbh, though they often recommend the Das 6 Pro, which is around £100 if you get it on the DW deal:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=207877
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php
steveo3002
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what is it you want to do with the buffer?
polish bugs and bits out of the clear coat after re spraying my car, just been reading the guides on the link Marlin gave me, I see it's a lot more complicated than I thought But I still haven't found a clear and concise explanation of the order in which you would use the different pads from start to finish, you say the bumpy one is the finishing pad, but do you use it with compound or dry or wet or with normal car polish or what? :-(
and now reading the guide it looks like I would be better buying a dual action one instead of this polisher ohhh groaaaan! why do these things always have to escalate and get complicated?
Right, I have bought a 500mill bottle of g3 and I want a polisher and the pads I need to finish the clear coat, not to a hot rod or showroom finish, just an acceptable family car finish, having had this operation on my shoulder it would be many months before I could be doing it by hand again
and now reading the guide it looks like I would be better buying a dual action one instead of this polisher ohhh groaaaan! why do these things always have to escalate and get complicated?
Right, I have bought a 500mill bottle of g3 and I want a polisher and the pads I need to finish the clear coat, not to a hot rod or showroom finish, just an acceptable family car finish, having had this operation on my shoulder it would be many months before I could be doing it by hand again
richie00boy
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You will be fine with G3. I have a rotary polisher and as long as you take your time and respect it you won't have a problem. Mine is the Kestrel SIM180. In fact if you have a sore shoulder a DA might give you some discomfort.
http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/7_Professional_Polisher_Varible_Speed
You need two pads, a coarse and fine. I've got the blue and black from here.
http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/Rhyno_Mop_6_150mm_2_Pack
To fit the pads on you will also need a backing pad. I've got a Farecla one, bit pricey for a bit of plastic but there you go.
Use G3 with the blue pad and G10 with the black pad. Briefly dip the pad in a bucket of water before putting a small quirt of compound on.
Do not press on the machine, just guide it along. Keep things moist and don't labour on areas.
When done, clean your pad thoroughly and if it's worn then bin it.
Things that cause bad results:
dirty pads
worn pads
too much pressure
too much heat
too little compound
too dry
http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/7_Professional_Polisher_Varible_Speed
You need two pads, a coarse and fine. I've got the blue and black from here.
http://www.sprayguns.co.uk/Rhyno_Mop_6_150mm_2_Pack
To fit the pads on you will also need a backing pad. I've got a Farecla one, bit pricey for a bit of plastic but there you go.
Use G3 with the blue pad and G10 with the black pad. Briefly dip the pad in a bucket of water before putting a small quirt of compound on.
Do not press on the machine, just guide it along. Keep things moist and don't labour on areas.
When done, clean your pad thoroughly and if it's worn then bin it.
Things that cause bad results:
dirty pads
worn pads
too much pressure
too much heat
too little compound
too dry
Hi Richie mate, thanks for the info, so if the rotary would be ok wouldn't the one in my picture do it then? info here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271261717734?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
As it's a 1500 watt machine and comes with all the pads and stuff and it would be ready to go?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271261717734?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
As it's a 1500 watt machine and comes with all the pads and stuff and it would be ready to go?
richie00boy
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I have no experience of those pads so can't say if that kit is worthwhile. It's also probably heavier than mine. Sorry I can't say any more than that as I only know what I've used, based on recommendations from people I trust. I'm not that experienced myself.
Ok Richie mate, understood and thanks for your input. I've been reading the tutorials on the site Marlin gave me so I'm getting a handle on it, I see what the guys mean, as is typical in all things the different manufacturers do not have a standard for grades so it's not as simple as saying the yellow ones are medium grade or whatever for all manufacturers, so I guess If I buy this one I will have to figure it out.
Tell me, when I have used the G3 and it has broken down to fine finish poilsh, do I then change the pad to one of those black lumpy ones and use it dry to polish off or do I wash the compound off first or what?
Tell me, when I have used the G3 and it has broken down to fine finish poilsh, do I then change the pad to one of those black lumpy ones and use it dry to polish off or do I wash the compound off first or what?
langy
langys rodshop
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The black pad looks like a waffle is for final polishing normally, I start with a White and G6, then another White with G3, then G10
This may help you http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/sho...olour-sand-paintwork&highlight=colour sanding
richie00boy
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The Farecla polishes (apart from Total) don't break down. You do the G3 then wash down and change to the black pad and G10. After using G10 you are left with a perfect surface. Then another wash down and apply wax by hand and buff by hand. The waxing is much easier than polishing so I'm not convinced you need to use a machine.
If you wanted to machine apply wax and buff wax you would need a soft pad (put on) and microfibre pad (buff off). You would have to work quick though as it would heat up fast.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Watch out for plastic bits like door handles as well, they build up heat really quickly and melt the paint off.
langy
langys rodshop
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Thanks Langy, yup! found that mate
I've used the Farecla for years and its always done a good job but there are better things out there these days, the 3M fast cut for instance is brilliant stuff
Yeah but have you seen the price of some of them, these are bad enough for a bloke just doing the family car.
So just to be clear with these pads, if I used a medium with G3 I would get a faster cut than if I used a soft with G3? And what's the difference between the pads that are on a backing disk and the pads that have the disk built in please?
So just to be clear with these pads, if I used a medium with G3 I would get a faster cut than if I used a soft with G3? And what's the difference between the pads that are on a backing disk and the pads that have the disk built in please?
