wheresmejumper
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my super expensive weldings tig has both
it is marketed as so though
it is marketed as so though
- Thread starter DairyFarmer5
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langy
langys rodshop
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As I said I don't know but a few people tell me the Parweld is just another Chinese machine made to a price but mine has a sticker on the back that says Made in Japan
Also the arc is much more stable than the R-Tec machine.
DairyFarmer5
Farm Welder
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That Everlast 160 has HF start so as said, would be a better buy than the 140.
Tbh, for the sort of stuff you're planning on doing you probably won't find much better in that price range.
The 160 is a little out of my price range
DairyFarmer5
Farm Welder
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From what I've heard, scratch start can incinerate your tungsten electrode. I think I'm going to get 2% thoriated electrodes. Now filler on the other hand, I might get ER70S-6 wire as a filler
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My advice would be wait a little while then.
Save a bit more up and buy the machine that will give you more bang for your buck rather that the cheapest of the cheap which you might soon grow out of.
justmental
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My advice would be wait a little while then.
Save a bit more up and buy the machine that will give you more bang for your buck rather that the cheapest of the cheap which you might soon grow out of.
totally agree
shenion
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I never said both are not available.
Historically, lift start was only on high-end machines so they could be used where the HF start would interfere with electronic devices.
I has now appeared on low-end inverters as a cheap replacement for HF start.
Historically, lift start was only on high-end machines so they could be used where the HF start would interfere with electronic devices.
I has now appeared on low-end inverters as a cheap replacement for HF start.
Drains
Yeah, nah.
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It won't incinerate it. That only happens if you forget to turn on the gas if you have a manual valve torch.
Scratch is bearable with practice. I know an old tig welder who can do as good a start on scratch as on HF and is quite happy to work like that. Nowt wrong with his welds either. Lift is easier, but for both, the best technique is to gently wipe the tungsten on the job, rather than a straight touch down (or lift) to initiate the arc. Or use a carbon/graphite starting block - you initiate the arc on that and move over to the weld.
I'd still put the non HF start in the 'only when necessary' category though. If all you had was a stick inverter then it's a technique to know, and it works. The major downside is the possibility of tungsten inclusion in the weld and losing the tip.
Rrunnach
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Paul.
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Personally I've never had a problem with scratch start, this morning I found my self doing a balancing act 5mtrs up in the air in a boiler room repairing a split heat exchanger, using a little scratch start esseti 140 inverter, around 4 foot of weld, all positional and all stops and starts and never reground once,
starting is a matter of preference I just touch down gently then lift off like making a full stop with a pencil, no right or wrong way if it works for you though,
Does that make me an old tig welder as well,
starting is a matter of preference I just touch down gently then lift off like making a full stop with a pencil, no right or wrong way if it works for you though,
Does that make me an old tig welder as well,
DairyFarmer5
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I think I'm going to start with the Lift Start for my first TIG, and get a new one once I open a legit shop. Speaking of which, I want to weld in my garage when the door is shut. It's a 23'x23' I believe with plaster walls, cement floor, and I think a 10 foot ceiling. Any recommendations of how I can do this without suffocating and not burning the garage down?
shenion
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That's a bit bigger than my garage. On TIG I have no problems as there is no real bad fumes on mild steel.
Using stick, I do have to open the garage door a bit to vent the smoke out. I use a 20" box fan with a 20x20 HVAC filter taped to it.. Gas MIG is clean too.
I do keep a fire extinguisher handy. My bench is heavy steel so no worries about burning things.
Lift start will be ok. Scratch start is not bad if you have a foot control (so you can start a a low current.)
You will also need a 220V outlet, 30A. If the breaker panel is in the garage, it is not difficult to add one. You can't do much on a regular 120V outlet; even if you did, it would have to be a dedicated one.
Using stick, I do have to open the garage door a bit to vent the smoke out. I use a 20" box fan with a 20x20 HVAC filter taped to it.. Gas MIG is clean too.
I do keep a fire extinguisher handy. My bench is heavy steel so no worries about burning things.
Lift start will be ok. Scratch start is not bad if you have a foot control (so you can start a a low current.)
You will also need a 220V outlet, 30A. If the breaker panel is in the garage, it is not difficult to add one. You can't do much on a regular 120V outlet; even if you did, it would have to be a dedicated one.
chevy2
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Cormirmed, i was at Steve(langys) workshop one evening doing a two man job,
Whilst i was on the torch the hf failed, still switched on hf it was now lift arc only....
DairyFarmer5
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I'm currently wiring a 220 through the crawlspace under the garage, and I'm hoping to have a hanging plug or an extension of some sort. I also emailed my uncle and grandpa, and they both did research, and we figured out the aircraft that I want to weld is EXPERIMENTAL and does not need to be welded by a certified welder
shenion
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Still say you were using scratch start not lift start (not referring to how you moved the torch.)
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We did this to death in the other thread that ended up getting locked but the welder would have to be 'competent' as the aircraft would be subject to an FAA airworthiness check and if it wasn't built to the required standard a certificate of airworthiness would not be issued. They do not have to be 'coded'.
DairyFarmer5
Farm Welder
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I'm gonna be buying some chromoly in advance to get some practice in with the TIG. It's gonna be about 15 years now, estimated by my uncle, so I've got plenty of time to perfect it
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In fairness the OP got a fair bit of flak in that other thread but it now seems it's perfectly feasible to do though there are a lot of regulations governing building and flying it.
Anyhoo, that's that out of the way so back to this thread.
Anyhoo, that's that out of the way so back to this thread.
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