- Thread starter Gritineye
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Agroshield
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I do not know about a preferred stockist, but these people list them:
bR39Da mentioned two other popular products in this post:
bR39Da mentioned two other popular products in this post:
Welding cast iron
Thats a fairly rigid piece, there would be a lot of stress on that weld if what its bolted/mated to is not perfectly square/flat against. Might pay to bed that down on some putty steel. Bob
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Agroshield
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The document below is not well described on their website (they call it 'crack detection procedures'), but I think what you are asking is about page 7:
Gritineye
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Thanks for your replies chaps, Welding is out cos it's a block, so way too chancy.
I'm having a go as there's nothing to loose, it's a rebuilt 1930s engine that then developed cracks and has been left standing for long periods, only ran occasionally. It ran ok but compressions were down so I took the head off, then almost wish I hadn't!
Rusty ring marks in the bores but a hone and new rings should do the job ok, there's no ring ridges at all.
The best stitching video I've found is this one, lots of tips and detail, 2 parts to it:
I'm having a go as there's nothing to loose, it's a rebuilt 1930s engine that then developed cracks and has been left standing for long periods, only ran occasionally. It ran ok but compressions were down so I took the head off, then almost wish I hadn't!
Rusty ring marks in the bores but a hone and new rings should do the job ok, there's no ring ridges at all.
The best stitching video I've found is this one, lots of tips and detail, 2 parts to it:
Gritineye
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Yebut cost is a big factor in this job though.
winchman
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Very ingenious thanks
oldbikedavey
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You might do a lot worse than to try Gosnays , in Romford for that.
Wildefalcon
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Is anything leaking at the cracks?
That's a fairly low compression side valve block, if the cracks aren't active or growing then it might run like that for ages, presuming you aren't commuting daily in it.
That's a fairly low compression side valve block, if the cracks aren't active or growing then it might run like that for ages, presuming you aren't commuting daily in it.
Gritineye
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What do you mean low compression? I'll have you know it's got a special high comp 5.22:1 'police' head, made for catching Bonnie and Clyde!
It's leaking at the cracks and running out of the inlet ports. I suspect some gasket leaks due to the head and block needed skimming after the first repair, which wasn't done.
It's been running ok ish but I reckon the bad rust in #3 has been caused by standing for years with water in there.
The temp gauge always took a long long time to move off the stop after a cold start. I reckon the engine might have been secretly overheating ever since someone put an aftermarket thermostat and temp sender in the top hose, which stopped all water circulation in the block until heat finally permeated up there to open the stat. Water flow was restricted even when the stat was open.
Cleaning up in progress, hoping to pressure test somehow.
Wildefalcon
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Superb!
Wildefalcon
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Yes, if it's leaking at the crack, it needs a repair. Welding.
Gritineye
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Nope, stitching.
Gritineye
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It's an approved option...Drop an LS motor in it.
Wrong group?
oldbikedavey
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With Fluid Weld, which bailed me out of a ridiculously tight corner last year....
Gritineye
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Looks interesting, so if I spot blasted the rusted out areas in the combustion chamber and poured it on, it would stay there forever?
