best orientation to print this

[ukracer]

I am not sure which orientation to print the above.

Its from thingiverse.

2.5 to 4 inch Adapter for Dewalt Table Saw by dimi523

Dust collection adapter for Dewalt DWE7491 table saw 2 1/2 inch port to a 4 inch hose.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Screwdriver]

I'd print it the other way up so that you don't need supports.

 

[PhillipM]

Same, other way up. 9 hours for 47g of filament seems very long for a fairly simple part though?!

 

[ukracer]

I decided to start if off and as it usually does inclines quite good I did it as it sits.
It's as much to determine if the size fits as its not for me it's a lad who I used to shoot in the same Team many years ago and he just popped up in our local westmidland 3D printing group asking for help.

My concern with printing upright is its easy to break (sheer).
But I plan to do another out of ABS pro when I check sizes, so I will turn it the other way up then.

 

[ukracer]

Ok The print finished and its ok but a bit too flimsy. I need to thicken it up to 5mm.

HOWEVER...lol It needs to be the same external size on the 4 inch side and the same Internal size on the 2 and a half inch size.
I cant for the life of me work out how to do it in fusion.
Anyone bored tonight?/ If not a pointer to a you tube video would be a bonus.

Oh I have attached the file just need to open the rar file

 

[Bladevane]

@ukracer - I am not an expert but if I was drawing something similar I would draw the profile at a suitable distance from the vertical axis to include the required shell thickness then revolve it around said vertical axis. And then print it the other way up, as previously described, to reduce overhangs and eliminate supports.
Edit: I've just looked at it on Thingiverse and the originator shows it printing the other way up.

 

[ukracer]

@ukracer - I am not an expert but if I was drawing something similar I would draw the profile at a suitable distance from the vertical axis to include the required shell thickness then revolve it around said vertical axis. And then print it the other way up, as previously described, to reduce overhangs and eliminate supports.
Edit: I've just looked at it on Thingiverse and the originator shows it printing the other way up.
View attachment 433952

Yeah cheers for the detailed reply.
I was going to print it the other way up.but my issue now is making it robust enough.
I.e 5mm thick but it has to be 4 inches mm od and 2 and a half inches ID and I am not sure how to achieve that in fusion.

 

[daedalusminos]

I'd print large diameter on bed, less chance of it falling over. Strength may be an issue though as you point out.

For the design, do as @Bladevane says, draw the profile the radius from the vertical axis and use dimensions to constrain:
Draw a construction line vertically on the vertical axis, draw the profile in approv the correct place (vertical line , diagonal, vertical line - forget the blip for now).
Now offset that profile by 5mm, connect the top and bottom with short lines.
Next add your dimensions, 2" from outside of profile to axis construction line at the bottom and 1.25" from inside profile at the top.
You'll now need to dimension the heights of each section, and add the blip.

Now revolve the profile around the construction axis.

If you need to adjust the fit just tweak dimensions in the sketch.

The whole process should take no more than a minute.

 

[ukracer]

I'd print large diameter on bed, less chance of it falling over. Strength may be an issue though as you point out.

For the design, do as @Bladevane says, draw the profile the radius from the vertical axis and use dimensions to constrain:
Draw a construction line vertically on the vertical axis, draw the profile in approv the correct place (vertical line , diagonal, vertical line - forget the blip for now).
Now offset that profile by 5mm, connect the top and bottom with short lines.
Next add your dimensions, 2" from outside of profile to axis construction line at the bottom and 1.25" from inside profile at the top.
You'll now need to dimension the heights of each section, and add the blip.

Now revolve the profile around the construction axis.

If you need to adjust the fit just tweak dimensions in the sketch.

The whole process should take no more than a minute.

You haven't seen me using fusion....lol

 

[hotponyshoes]

Just click on the end of the circle you need to change and edit the size in the measurements box.
First edit will give you a taper so you then have to click on the other end and do the same to make it parallel again.

 

[Agroshield]

Two things to consider:

If this is to have stuff flowing through it, the inside, where the fluid flows, benefits from being smoother rather than rougher. Hence, a print orientation which maximises this would seem to be preferable.

Second, I wondered if the taper angle was important. This (https://www.pumpsandsystems.com/tapered-rubber-expansion-joints), just as a starter contribution on the subject, implies that the taper is too steep.

 

[PhillipM]

Be better off grabbing the dimensions off the mating parts and just redraw it tbh, working with mesh instead of a solid body is a pita and conversions aren't all that accurate, can be done of course.
You could also then loft the profiles along a curve and get a nice smooth transition for the air to flow better without really changing anything.
You can't just click on the circle and edit dimensions like some are saying because of that - it's a mesh, not a solid model. There's no circle, there's just a lot of triangles.

Also there's almost zero chance of that falling over on the bed it's too wide and stout, you print the small side on the bed so you don't have that rough 90* overhang where it fits to the hose trying to print in mid air.
Printed small side to the bed you only have the taper as an overhang which you had anyway.

 

[PhillipM]

Here I was in Fusion for something else, this is a straight copy just at 5mm thick (you might find it'll be so much stiffer it might not slide on the tool side easily now though, depending on the clearance)

 

[ukracer]

Two things to consider:

If this is to have stuff flowing through it, the inside, where the fluid flows, benefits from being smoother rather than rougher. Hence, a print orientation which maximises this would seem to be preferable.

Second, I wondered if the taper angle was important. This (https://www.pumpsandsystems.com/tapered-rubber-expansion-joints), just as a starter contribution on the subject, implies that the taper is too steep.

It's extraction on a dewalt saw bench.
A lad I used to shoot field target with popped up after 30 years on a 3D printing forum I am on and asked if anyone could print one.
I found one on thingiverse and printed it.

I am going to get it to him to test for size and if it fits print a thicker walled one as its a bit flimsy.
But it's only extracting sawdust I think..

 

[PhillipM]

And one here with some sensible chamfers and fillets given the 0.3mm layer height to help everything go together and print smoother.

 

[ukracer]

Here I was in Fusion for something else, this is a straight copy just at 5mm thick (you might find it'll be so much stiffer it might not slide on the tool side easily now though, depending on the clearance)

Cheers chap. I will still have a go myself but will use yours to print one in ABS pro.
Thanks for your effort...

 

[PhillipM]

And one that should flow better and probably not make as much noise doing it:

Hopefully you're not already printing, a courier came right as I was sending this

 

[ukracer]

And one that should flow better and probably not make as much noise doing it:
View attachment 433996
Hopefully you're not already printing, a courier came right as I was sending this

Lol. No mate . I had to get the wife dressed before I can start the print off.

 

[hotponyshoes]

It might feel flimsy now but might well feel fine once it's pushed into/over the other parts

 

[ajlelectronics]

Cheers chap. I will still have a go myself but will use yours to print one in ABS pro.

I would be using TPU for that.