Timing belt - close to destruction?!

[premmington]

I still paint pulleys. Even though modern engines don't need timing (electronicly) I've not used a timing light in a over a decade. twin cams dot the bottom draw a line across the two pulleys at the top. Get the bottom on and have someone to spin the cams in place while you put the belt on at the top a bit difficult to hold it yourself as it's pretty much on the Rock where it needs to be. Can't say I've ever needed any special tools. Might of modified a spanner or two in the past. I've never done the half cutting of the old one. Put a few fan belts on like a bike chain once or twice.

Even when using the special tools - I still "paint pulleys" - I use old nail varnish for the job.

You can never be too "safe"...

 

[bricol]

One of the nicest engines I ever changed a belt on was the 1.7L Peugeot TD in the late 80s 309.
I think you put an M6 bolt through the cam pulley and a 6 or 8mm dowel through a hole to lock the crank, crack the tensioner and away you go.
They should have kept those engines, rather than the poxy modern thing with the cam lobes pressed onto a length of tube FFS...

I was impressed to find very similar on the 1100cc engine in my 91 Pug 106.

 

[bricol]

After my dad died my mother spent a year trying to decide which of their two cars she should keep: her Stilo or his Megane.
My bro and I decided that the Megane should really have its timing belt changed whether she kept it or not but after spending an entire weekend I gave up trying to figure out how to do it without moving/removing the engine - you couldn't (as you may know) work in the gap between the engine and the inner wing.
We sold it quick and 12 years later she still drives the Stilo (the belt was a relative doddle on that).

Lancia integrale - take a 70's designed engine bay, intended for a 1500cc single cam . . jam in a 2 ltr turbo charged twin cam . . . service access wasn't the priority shall we say!

Engine mounts need removing, the engine jacking up and across to get a gap to get the belt through. And then long fingers to get belt cover screws etc back in. And if no-one has slotted the hole in the metal part of the cover, you can't get it off . . - the bolt holding it is too long to come out in situ . . .

If are looking at an integrale, take a look at the inside of the offside front chassis leg . . . a dent means the belt changer resorted to a big lever to push the engine across just enough to get the twisted belt in at some point.

 

[armalites]

I've been driving pugs for the past 30+ years & do all my own servicing so I've fitted many cam belts on French cars. I have a few 'modified' spanners, sockets & locking pins that make the job easier but you are still trying to work in a 2" gap between engine & inner wing. I have a belt kit to fit on my dispatch van & I'm not looking forward to it as access is even worse, especially from the top!

Sometimes these things look a lot worse than they are. I did a belt on a friends Citroen 1.6HDI, it looked a bit of a pain but it was actually pretty easy. The pin kit was cheap and worked fine. The one thing I noted from doing that engine was that a pin for the pump was included as expected but as it's common rail the pump isn't timed(some engines pumps are timed though) and the pin was more to aid the initial belt install by holding the pulley. This means after one revolution the pump pin won't fit. Caused some head scratching initially.

 

[Morrisman]

I've been driving pugs for the past 30+ years & do all my own servicing so I've fitted many cam belts on French cars. I have a few 'modified' spanners, sockets & locking pins that make the job easier but you are still trying to work in a 2" gap between engine & inner wing. I have a belt kit to fit on my dispatch van & I'm not looking forward to it as access is even worse, especially from the top!

One of the nicest little cars ever was my wife's old Pug 107. I did the cam belt and tensioner on that, after the local Peugeot main dealer head mechanic tried to tell us the whizzing noise was the alternator. I pointed out I'd run it with the fan belt off and it definitely wasn't the alty.

He then quoted £200+ to replace the alty....

The only problem I had was the finger wide gap twixt belt and inner wing. But the parts kit only cost me £27 and it only took a couple of hours start to finish.

 

[T689]

Can you photo and post the change? I've a d5 v70 and might do this myself, now that I've more time.

I haven't posted the change as all you need to know is well covered in youtube video links below;

D5 Aux belt
D5 Timing Belt

Tools you will need are;

Impact wrench or 3/4” breaker bar for crank pulley nut (300Nm)
Crankshaft Holding tool: eBay: 265898248180 / £17.99
Mix of small 1/2" drive sockets (10-14mm)
30mm socket for crank pulley
Torque wrenches (for torques below)
T60 torx for aux belt tensioner
6mm allen key for timing belt tensioner
Tippex for marking belt/cam pulley etc.
Loctite

Torque settings;
Crank pulley nut: 300 Nm
Pulley bolts x4: 35 Nm then a further 50 degrees.
Tension pulley: 27Nm
Idler pulley: 25Nm

(Mark everything, double check all and turn engine twice by hand checking crank/cam timing marks still lining up before starting)

As long as you can undo the crank pulley nut, it's not a difficult job to do.

 

[maroon]

Tippex for marking belt/cam pulley etc.
Location

Torque settings;
Crank pulley nut: 300 Nm
Pulley bolts x4: 35 Nm then a further 50 degrees.
Tension pulley: 27Nm
Idler pulley: 25Nm

Or a tin of ford diamond white a little brush
a hookie autodata app also helps.

 

[armalites]

Or a tin of ford diamond white a little brush and a hookie autodata app also helps.

I'm on my 5th daily driver Volvo Estate, been running the latest for 4 years I think. It's a Mk3 V70 D5, it's a great car, rides really well and very comfortable sadly the most common failure parts on them are the bits from the platform shared with the Mondeo so I think using Ford Diamond White paint is a step too far

 

[premmington]

Or a tin of ford diamond white a little brush
a hookie autodata app also helps.

I got/pay for autodata online - full version - if you want/need anything - just ask/PM me - If you give me a email address - I will send what you want in PDF format

 

[maroon]

I got/pay for autodata online - full version - if you want/need anything - just ask/PM me - If you give me a email address - I will send what you want in PDF format

aye, it's now on subscription. i got it upto about 2006ish? i think.
i normally work on old scrappers . but i now know where to come if i need anything specific for something newer
thanks.

 

[keithski122]

One of the nicest engines I ever changed a belt on was the 1.7L Peugeot TD in the late 80s 309.
I think you put an M6 bolt through the cam pulley and a 6 or 8mm dowel through a hole to lock the crank, crack the tensioner and away you go.
They should have kept those engines, rather than the poxy modern thing with the cam lobes pressed onto a length of tube FFS...

Only problem is if you forget to take out the locking pin on the crankshaft and try to start it.I've seen it done and the pin bent, its then a pig of a job to remove the pin.

 

[maroon]

I'm on my 5th daily driver Volvo Estate, been running the latest for 4 years I think. It's a Mk3 V70 D5, it's a great car, rides really well and very comfortable sadly the most common failure parts on them are the bits from the platform shared with the Mondeo so I think using Ford Diamond White paint is a step too far

I think they should just rename that colour to "tranny van white" It's never been changed since the 80's.

 

[Red'n'Black]

I was impressed to find very similar on the 1100cc engine in my 91 Pug 106.

I bought my daughter one of those to learn in, first thing I did was change the belt and water pump.

Fairly simple job but the book mentions a special electronic tool to use when setting the tension. Then at the end of the spiel it says "or alternatively, set it so you can just twist the longest run through 90⁰ between finger and thumb".

That's the method I've always used, still running nice and quiet after 10k miles.

Anybody ever used the special tool, Pug seem to have discontinued them and they probably weren't cheap when the manual was written 20+ years ago?

 

[OJCar]

I think they should just rename that colour to "tranny van white" It's never been changed since the 80's.

It was in use on 1972 Escorts.

 

[maroon]

It was in use on 1972 Escorts.

I wasn't even thought of then... well before my time that.

 

[bricol]

I bought my daughter one of those to learn in, first thing I did was change the belt and water pump.

Fairly simple job but the book mentions a special electronic tool to use when setting the tension. Then at the end of the spiel it says "or alternatively, set it so you can just twist the longest run through 90⁰ between finger and thumb".

That's the method I've always used, still running nice and quiet after 10k miles.

Anybody ever used the special tool, Pug seem to have discontinued them and they probably weren't cheap when the manual was written 20+ years ago?

That's the method I've used on all engines needing timing belts that I've had to change.

I only changed the Pug one as the head gasket failed after being thrashed the decade or more I'd had it by then.

I do have a couple of Krikit belt tension gauges - and until 3mins ago, I had no idea how to use them, so didn't . . .

 

[Barking Mat]

That's the method I've used on all engines needing timing belts that I've had to change.

I only changed the Pug one as the head gasket failed after being thrashed the decade or more I'd had it by then.

I do have a couple of Krikit belt tension gauges - and until 3mins ago, I had no idea how to use them, so didn't . . .

My thumbs calibrated.....

 

[maroon]

My thumbs calibrated.....

I give it a twist on its baggiest part/longest run. Over 90 degree too slack. No play at all far too tight. I look/feel for about 65-75 degrees ish twist. Just like Like a gentle nip finger and thumb on the edge. Not ragging the thing with force to see how far you can get it

 

[m_c]

I think they should just rename that colour to "tranny van white" It's never been changed since the 80's.

It changed to Diamond White around 2000 with the launch of the new model, and lost the yellow hue.

 

[maroon]

It changed to Diamond White around 2000 with the launch of the new model, and lost the yellow hue.

I'm almost certain my old smiley was diamond white. That was on a p (96?)

Long time gone so not that sure.