I think it might be a bit larger once you cut/grind back to Virginia metal (at least that's what always happens to me).Am having to get my new welder out (that I have hardly ever used) and start doing something I haven't done in a long time.
I just wanted opinions from anyone as to where you would try and attach the plate on this, it is about 4" long. Any advice much appreciated, cheers.
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Them bottoms I normally just fuse together. Very little use of filler. But yeah I would go right around. I personally wouldn't plug it. I find it just as easy fuseing those bottoms than it is putting holes in.
gods no ,,, unless its something worth a lot of cash ,, what you can do is joggle the base metal and set a patch in rather than on , that gives a good tidy result without going daft at things ,,, but the important part is the cleaning back to good metal ,,,
Cheers, wanted to wait till the weather was much colder and wet before I started, like I usually do..
Keeps you cool . .. moving around so the wet, but warm bit of overall moves, allowing a new, wet, but cold bit to touch your back . . . while water drips off the bottom into your eye just as you move the mask for a second . . . or into your ear . . . just before a nice bit of spatter follows it . . .
youve not allowed for acf 50 ,,,, cut a perfect patch , set it in perfectly , and the haz will rust from the inside out in three months ,,, if you dont treat the patch , or the parts beside it , it will be as bad as ever long before the next mot ,,,, waxol wont work ,, you need something non flamable so if you have to patch again in the area it wont turn into a fireball ,,,, I give 2 years warranty on everything i patch ,, joggle or cut and set in , thats on land rovers mostly , the only way I can do that is post weld treatment ,,, you cant just patch something and slap a bit of underseal on , not if its rusted from the inside out ,,,, many here know what I use , others have their choices but you need to be using something.I believe you can just slap a patch on top and weld all round/underseal so you can't quite tell what's happened . . . an MOT-able repair for this year . . .
Joggling to me just creates perfect water traps to allow you to do it all again in a year or two.
Nice patch let in to good metal works about as well as anything . . . if you skimp on the cutting back to good metal, you just create more work when you blow holes all around the patch
So process would be, cut out to good steel, clean inner and outer edges of cut, weld piece in. You would put a hole in the patch before to enable the acf50 to be sprayed in then rubber plug the hole?
thats how i do it ,,, if you can get a hole in each end of a sill on the inside ,,, perfect ,, a lot of modern cars have plenty of holes and plastic plugs in them already , so you just need to explore a bit ,,, no welded repair will last for any length of time without treatment ,,,, well not in mild steel anyways
