- Thread starter sardine
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Use it.
As said at operating temps it is the same.
It may burn a bit as it mixed with the older oil. Resulting in a bit of blue smoke.
As said at operating temps it is the same.
It may burn a bit as it mixed with the older oil. Resulting in a bit of blue smoke.
sardine
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Should be a bit easier to start, 5w is like water.
I spent hours fitting a backup pull start to it but the compression is too much, as soon as the decompressor flicks up it stops dead. Not sure why since loads of machines with an L100 have a pull start?
I spent hours fitting a backup pull start to it but the compression is too much, as soon as the decompressor flicks up it stops dead. Not sure why since loads of machines with an L100 have a pull start?
Check what the spec of the oil for your Yanmar clone should be (spec not viscosity).
Fully Synch may well be "too good" a spec for that motor.
If it is, then using it is likely to result in the oil scraper rings not scraping effectively as the lube is too effective - leading to bore polishing, loss of compression and piston blow-by, oil consumption, crankcase pressurisation, smoking, carbon deposits in the head etc etc.
People think they are doing an engine a favour by giving it top spec oil.... but if it ain't designed to run on a modern hi-tech lube.... you're killing it.
Safest bet is to use the spec oil the mfr designed it around.
Fully Synch may well be "too good" a spec for that motor.
If it is, then using it is likely to result in the oil scraper rings not scraping effectively as the lube is too effective - leading to bore polishing, loss of compression and piston blow-by, oil consumption, crankcase pressurisation, smoking, carbon deposits in the head etc etc.
People think they are doing an engine a favour by giving it top spec oil.... but if it ain't designed to run on a modern hi-tech lube.... you're killing it.
Safest bet is to use the spec oil the mfr designed it around.
The trick to starting an L100 (& others like Lombardini's)... is to slowly pull the recoil until it goes solid - that's the piston coming up on compression approaching tdc.
Let the recoil go back all the way in.
NOW depress the auto-release decompressor lever on the head.
Then give the recoil a long steady firm pull all the way (not a snatch, take up the tension and then pull).
She should fire up no bother if it's fit.
Bobupndown
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Oil specs are crazy nowadays so many variables different specs but same grade of oil. What happened to just buying a gallon of Duckhams and slinging it in everything?
Actually thought they'd stopped making Duckhams, haven't seen it stocked anywhere for years.
Actually thought they'd stopped making Duckhams, haven't seen it stocked anywhere for years.
Simplest I find with oil is to use the American API system on the can, not the over-long Euro-babble spec.
E.g. API spec CE/SH or similar.
First letter of each means Compression & Spark (so 1st pair for diesels, 2nd pair for petrols).
The further along the alphabet the 2nd letter in each, the higher the spec.
A lot of older diesel engines need a mineral-based CC spec, which is about as low as you'll find.
E.g. API spec CE/SH or similar.
First letter of each means Compression & Spark (so 1st pair for diesels, 2nd pair for petrols).
The further along the alphabet the 2nd letter in each, the higher the spec.
A lot of older diesel engines need a mineral-based CC spec, which is about as low as you'll find.
I hadn't used Duckhams for years, then about 2 months ago we ordered a 205 litre drum of general use 10-40 semi synthetic which we use for ATVs (and just about everything else) Instead of the usual pro-power Gold, the motor factors sent Duckhams, not green now though, nor does it have that Duckhams smell.
roofman
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I have the same engine but a genuine Yanmar on a hydraulic power pac...same problem trying to start it so i thought "sod this" and took the recoil off and get a cordless drill with a socket on the big crank nut...run the drill up and drop de-compressor lever and starts no problem.
Then there s something not quite right.
The genuine Yanmar can suffer from dicky/failed stop solenoids on the E-start versions - but I suspect yours (being recoil start only) just has a mechanical stop lever.
Sounds like your compression is OK - so it might be worth looking at the fuel system? Clean the tank, replace the lines, new inline fuel filter maybe - if that doesn't help, then look at the injector or injector pump perhaps?
Clean air filter also.
Maybe the valves need adjusting (or its got worn/damaged valve seats etc).
Not sure if the decompression lever system is adjustable of goes out of whack on those tbh.
If the motor is healthy, the technique will start the engine first go or 2nd go.
I'd say somethings not quite right.
RWD3M
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This is about as close as you'll get. I wouldn't surprised if it actaully is Duckhams Q.
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It's certainly green and does smell like the old Duckhams Q.
roofman
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My Yanmar is perfect on valves,fueling etc...such a heavy engine to swing with the recoil as if it needs a bigger recoil/rope pulley for more rpm when swinging it. A electric start conversion kit is £400 so its a 18V dewalt cordless for me and it cracks right up. Shockingly high compression on these L100 motors
(In case) - You can still use the head mounter manual decompressor while leccy starting - even the proper starter motors are a bit marginal IMO, and even with a fit battery the motor sort of lurches over rather than spins up.My Yanmar is perfect on valves,fueling etc...such a heavy engine to swing with the recoil as if it needs a bigger recoil/rope pulley for more rpm when swinging it. A electric start conversion kit is £400 so its a 18V dewalt cordless for me and it cracks right up. Shockingly high compression on these L100 motors
Hold down the lever to Decompress, whizz the motor up and release the lever and its far easier to start
roofman
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They are impossible to swing with the lever off the valve anyway..decompress a necessity(In case) - You can still use the head mounter manual decompressor while leccy starting - even the proper starter motors are a bit marginal IMO, and even with a fit battery the motor sort of lurches over rather than spins up.
Hold down the lever to Decompress, whizz the motor up and release the lever and its far easier to start
