- Thread starter Richiew
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I see what you did there....
MattF
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Nope.
Braved the garage and finished the welding. Brackets got drilled and test fitted round the stump. I think it looks quite medieval, apart from the shiny metric bolts. Just noticed the sharp corners on the brackets where the bolts fit so they will get rounded it off.
The wood is a bit irregular, so I'll have to spend a bit of time getting the pieces lined up and as square as possible before screwing together for good. I have all the fiddly jobs left that take a bit of care and attention to get right and I'm not very good at those. The tension on the brackets should be a good test of the welds. I don't expect problems.
The wood is a bit irregular, so I'll have to spend a bit of time getting the pieces lined up and as square as possible before screwing together for good. I have all the fiddly jobs left that take a bit of care and attention to get right and I'm not very good at those. The tension on the brackets should be a good test of the welds. I don't expect problems.
I've taken the brackets off and rounded off the sharp corners. An attempt was made at screwing the blocks together but I gave up. The blocks aren't square enough and just pulled all over the place rather than snugging up. The brackets work better at keeping the blocks tight and close. I'll still have some gaps due to irregularities but I'm not too bothered. Bit of wood filler maybe? As long as I don't drop the block on a corner I reckon they should stay pretty flat.
The scary grinder attachment was used to take the thick off the top and the belt sander was used to finish and flat off.
I've gone for a shallow dish as the 2" dish in the other sump seems like a deep pit.
25mm in the middle on this one. Will see how it goes. The depth stop on the drill came in handy. Stopped to watch the rugby now.
The scary grinder attachment was used to take the thick off the top and the belt sander was used to finish and flat off.
I've gone for a shallow dish as the 2" dish in the other sump seems like a deep pit.
25mm in the middle on this one. Will see how it goes. The depth stop on the drill came in handy. Stopped to watch the rugby now.
Looking at the earlier pictures, those gaps are pretty horrid. I thought about planing the eight touching faces but I had visions of a Father Ted type situation chasing dents around a car and shaving the whole thing to sawdust.
On with the grinding then. Concentrated in the middle as there's not much to come off at the periphery.
Finished off with the DA sander. Tried to identify flat spots by touch. It might get fettled again once I start using it.
It's a nice solid lump and something else to trip over in the garage.
Mk1 & Mk2
On with the grinding then. Concentrated in the middle as there's not much to come off at the periphery.
Finished off with the DA sander. Tried to identify flat spots by touch. It might get fettled again once I start using it.
It's a nice solid lump and something else to trip over in the garage.
Mk1 & Mk2
selectedgrub
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Hello, I enjoy your posts so thanks for sharing.
Any reason to why the 4 tightening points.
It would seem 2 on each band on opposites sides could do.
Any reason to why the 4 tightening points.
It would seem 2 on each band on opposites sides could do.
Looks Nice. Heat some sheet steel up, red hot, bash it into the hollow, That will polish the surface and take your high spots off. We have about 5 of them in the group. normally cut into the side of a log as well as the top and bottom,
Cheers @selectedgrub
I sort of copy people and make stuff as I go along so I can't claim to have thought the design through very deeply. In my build I think splitting the brackets into four corners works for me.
Firstly, I wanted and needed the extra welding practice. I haven't got a desperate need for one of these but I enjoy having a go and making stuff, especially if I can expand the tool collection. It's just time for myself in the garage.
The main is reason is the dimensions of the wood and my lack of wood bothering. I've already mentioned that the internal gaps aren't great but if you look at the outside of the block, especially from the top, then the outer sides where they meet don't line up either! Check out the pic with my boots in shot. Only one of the four middle joins actually line up well. Splitting the brackets at the join means they all hug the individual blocks better. A slight bolt angle takes up the misalignment. This is more serendipity than design.
If I had a single long bar across two badly fitting blocks it would look a lot worse and not grip as well.
If I was doing this again I would have cut all the bracket sides to 135mm so they were all even, instead of alternating 130 and 140mm. I just made it up as went along and didn't have the sense to change after making the first two brackets and test fitting them.
The block with the big crack at one end was screwed back tight, but it had still splayed a lot at the cracked end. That needed a fair bit of grinding back just to get it somewhere near. In summary, the wood is really all over the place, dimensionally speaking, and I didn't do much to get it all square.
I sort of copy people and make stuff as I go along so I can't claim to have thought the design through very deeply. In my build I think splitting the brackets into four corners works for me.
Firstly, I wanted and needed the extra welding practice. I haven't got a desperate need for one of these but I enjoy having a go and making stuff, especially if I can expand the tool collection. It's just time for myself in the garage.
The main is reason is the dimensions of the wood and my lack of wood bothering. I've already mentioned that the internal gaps aren't great but if you look at the outside of the block, especially from the top, then the outer sides where they meet don't line up either! Check out the pic with my boots in shot. Only one of the four middle joins actually line up well. Splitting the brackets at the join means they all hug the individual blocks better. A slight bolt angle takes up the misalignment. This is more serendipity than design.
If I had a single long bar across two badly fitting blocks it would look a lot worse and not grip as well.
If I was doing this again I would have cut all the bracket sides to 135mm so they were all even, instead of alternating 130 and 140mm. I just made it up as went along and didn't have the sense to change after making the first two brackets and test fitting them.
The block with the big crack at one end was screwed back tight, but it had still splayed a lot at the cracked end. That needed a fair bit of grinding back just to get it somewhere near. In summary, the wood is really all over the place, dimensionally speaking, and I didn't do much to get it all square.
Just to add, I get a bit more adjustability setting the tension with all the extra bolt placings. Where one block is dimensionally a little bit smaller I can snug up the adjacent bolts more to keep it bound tight.
Does it help or really matter? I'm not sure, but I like to think it does.
Does it help or really matter? I'm not sure, but I like to think it does.
slim_boy_fat
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It's a different block, but that's the way to do it.
Polished with fire.
That's not the first time that chap's done that.
Err, no.That's not the first time that chap's done that.
, Pete was a restoration carpenter for 36 years, he knows how to use a chisel 
The other guy , Paul, is a professional farrier and very good blacksmith. We all work together, Pete dishes the logs out to whatever size Paul needs. AND we do it all in a field, with no access to power tools.Well, @Fat Gray asked to know how I get on with it.
This is 0.45mm thick aluminium, so it doesn't get any easier to shape with than this. A gentle start for me and the stump. The red hammer is the one with the most crown out of a cheapie Clarke panel beating set that I've had for years. I've only used it once before.
The Clarke hammer (with my assistance) put a lot of hammer marks into the soft material, so these other two hammers got employed. Both car boot sale purchases. I restored the Sykes Pickavant hammer a few years ago. It was in a sorry state when I bought it. I made a post about it at the time. First time it's really been used since. The Sykes is very lovely to use. It used to look terrible and the end of the handle is still a bit rough.
Hammer marks apparent below.
Second attempt with a new piece of material, only using this leather Thor hammer. I know I wouldn't get away using this hammer with steel but it seemed OK with the ally. It had a nice big round end which is what I was after.
The muck shows where the stump has been used most heavily. The stump works well. Nothing's shifted as far as I can tell, and it feels nice and solid. I need to do a bit of reshaping of the bowl at 12 o'clock in the pic below. There's an orangey flat spot where I've taken too much material, so there's a little bit of crease below it. It just needs sanding and rounding out.
It's rather therapeutic to be sat just bashing away and trying to create a shape. I heartily recommend it.
I will have to try to make something to a predetermined size and shape as a bit of a test. That will be much harder and more frustrating but will develop the skill. I have a lovely tool on order with someone on here that should compliment this nicely.
This is 0.45mm thick aluminium, so it doesn't get any easier to shape with than this. A gentle start for me and the stump. The red hammer is the one with the most crown out of a cheapie Clarke panel beating set that I've had for years. I've only used it once before.
The Clarke hammer (with my assistance) put a lot of hammer marks into the soft material, so these other two hammers got employed. Both car boot sale purchases. I restored the Sykes Pickavant hammer a few years ago. It was in a sorry state when I bought it. I made a post about it at the time. First time it's really been used since. The Sykes is very lovely to use. It used to look terrible and the end of the handle is still a bit rough.
Today I acquired...........
Ive got a load of listers to do up at some point 4 Ds and a junior. All in need of trolleys, I've got as far as cutting and abusing the wood work, and I have some drawings for the original trolley, which is similar to the pic.. There wont be a lot of varnish on mine though.. :)
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Hammer marks apparent below.
Second attempt with a new piece of material, only using this leather Thor hammer. I know I wouldn't get away using this hammer with steel but it seemed OK with the ally. It had a nice big round end which is what I was after.
The muck shows where the stump has been used most heavily. The stump works well. Nothing's shifted as far as I can tell, and it feels nice and solid. I need to do a bit of reshaping of the bowl at 12 o'clock in the pic below. There's an orangey flat spot where I've taken too much material, so there's a little bit of crease below it. It just needs sanding and rounding out.
It's rather therapeutic to be sat just bashing away and trying to create a shape. I heartily recommend it.
I will have to try to make something to a predetermined size and shape as a bit of a test. That will be much harder and more frustrating but will develop the skill. I have a lovely tool on order with someone on here that should compliment this nicely.
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