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Anyone had the chance to use one of these http://www.bifabuk.co.uk/notchers/tube-pipe-notcher-tn300.php
or something similar?
or something similar?
- Thread starter Welderpaul
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We have a job doing (amongst other stuff) all the terrace rails at a new build football stand in March. There's 3,800 metres of 48.3 handrailing - posts, top and mid rails, so lots of notching to do! They look to be just short of 2 grand new. Still not sure how sucessful the cut would be using a hole saw. Would imagine they skid around a bit at the start of the cut. No way of indexing the tube either to make sure the cuts at each end are aligned. Spose the tube could be laid in a piece of angle and a chalk line scribed down the length
longacre mack something like that you run it off an electric drill demon tweeks sell there stuff.
a buddy of mine made his own he made a jig to get the other end aligned but his lengths were only small not handrail spec.
for 2g id make my own also.
a buddy of mine made his own he made a jig to get the other end aligned but his lengths were only small not handrail spec.
for 2g id make my own also.
Paul.
I do a lot of notching and for alignment I use a simple device which clamps on the tube with a flat surface on which I can place a digital level. You can use this to make sure your notches are aligned or rotated relative to each other as necessary.
Normsthename
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If I could find enough work for it, I was toying with the idea of modifying my CNC Plasma machine to do Tube Coping 
Similar to this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSwhGzNp9kE&feature=channel
Andy
Similar to this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSwhGzNp9kE&feature=channel
Andy
scarecrow
Outstanding in his field
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sounds good have you got a pick of that
engybenjy
gettin' better all time.......
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Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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I built one, to use rotabroach cutters as I thought the same as you (WPaul) I was wrong, the rotabroach was crap, stuck a hole saw in and it cuts like a dream.
As for making sure both ends are in line you need a Plain of Bend tool
To use; Clamp on tube and level up. cut one end, turn pipe round level up again and cut. Hey presto, both are sq.
As for notchers, the machine is nice, but unless you are doing them in one place, it will be a pain moving it, I would be inclined to by a few of these
Then at least you can be cutting more than one tube at a time, you won't cry if it gets nicked or broken either.
As for making sure both ends are in line you need a Plain of Bend tool
To use; Clamp on tube and level up. cut one end, turn pipe round level up again and cut. Hey presto, both are sq.
As for notchers, the machine is nice, but unless you are doing them in one place, it will be a pain moving it, I would be inclined to by a few of these
Then at least you can be cutting more than one tube at a time, you won't cry if it gets nicked or broken either.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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A belt grinder with the correct diameter roller and some rough grit belts would do the job and be useful for other purposes as well.
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I like the simple idea of the Plain of Bend Tool. Is it something you made, or can it be purchased?
It would be fairly easy to set up a reference face on or near the notcher that the Plain of Bend tool sat on to give you the correct position in the machine - saves levelling up each time, and probably more accurate/repeatable.
All the notching will be done in the shop, so once the machine is set up, its there for the duration of the job.
5,700 notches to do
It would be fairly easy to set up a reference face on or near the notcher that the Plain of Bend tool sat on to give you the correct position in the machine - saves levelling up each time, and probably more accurate/repeatable.
All the notching will be done in the shop, so once the machine is set up, its there for the duration of the job.
5,700 notches to do
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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That's a bought one, but as you can see there is nothing to it. I made my own, out of a bit of box section, by using a hole saw the dia of the tube, then drilling 90degrees to that hole for a weld nut, this then takes a bolt to hold the POB to the pipe. Of coarse it only works with the one size tube but it got me going until I made a better one
Arsonista
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Any chance of a pic of that Snowcat, please.
Paul.
I use a clamp on device similar to the pic that Shox Dr posted, and hold a digital level on the flat surface to align the cuts. I have another clamp which has a cheap rotary angle finder fixed to it, either one works well. Hole saws cut nice fishmouths but they do have to be rigidly fixed to the arbor, and feeds need to be slow and steady, coolant helps a lot. One problem with holesaws is that as the cut angle increases the cut length increases, the waste bottoms out on the inside of the holesaw so you won't be able to make the fishmouth in one cut, you need to withdraw the saw and cut the waste off then finish the cut. I use mostly 28mm and 32mm 10swg tube and can quite easily get 50 or 60 cuts out of a good quality holesaw. Check the machine you are looking at, you may be able to use endmill cutters on it.
I use a clamp on device similar to the pic that Shox Dr posted, and hold a digital level on the flat surface to align the cuts. I have another clamp which has a cheap rotary angle finder fixed to it, either one works well. Hole saws cut nice fishmouths but they do have to be rigidly fixed to the arbor, and feeds need to be slow and steady, coolant helps a lot. One problem with holesaws is that as the cut angle increases the cut length increases, the waste bottoms out on the inside of the holesaw so you won't be able to make the fishmouth in one cut, you need to withdraw the saw and cut the waste off then finish the cut. I use mostly 28mm and 32mm 10swg tube and can quite easily get 50 or 60 cuts out of a good quality holesaw. Check the machine you are looking at, you may be able to use endmill cutters on it.
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Il post some pictures up of the cobbing tool when I get in the workshop..
I made the tooling from EN24 and got it hardened, the actual cutting face is indexable and can be rotated, reshaping the entire face is just a matter of flashing the tool over with the mill....
you could even go to a carbide face if nessary...
It was one of those things I made because errrm I could, I suspect someone told me it wouldn't work.... never really use it now TBH last staircase I built was 6 years ago, I have Heep's of fixtures and tooling that hasn't been dusted for years...
I made the tooling from EN24 and got it hardened, the actual cutting face is indexable and can be rotated, reshaping the entire face is just a matter of flashing the tool over with the mill....
you could even go to a carbide face if nessary...
It was one of those things I made because errrm I could, I suspect someone told me it wouldn't work.... never really use it now TBH last staircase I built was 6 years ago, I have Heep's of fixtures and tooling that hasn't been dusted for years...
N
naughtyboy
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our lass bought us one of e-bay for xmas.
being have a lay on some old offcuts works a treat.
looks like the £85 one from stakesys.
planning on making a chopper for kids with it as first project
being have a lay on some old offcuts works a treat.
looks like the £85 one from stakesys.
planning on making a chopper for kids with it as first project
I notch in the mill with a big face mill matched to the diameter of tube.
If you wanted them all the same, but done rapidly you could make a fixture up which clamps to the table and locks the tube in to a known position, traverse to the position and repeat. It could be as simple as a bit of pipe as a guide fixtured onto the table, a quick release pipevice and a stop bolted into a teeslot. I bet it'd work out quicker than sawing them all in with a holesaw. Especially if you had access to a cnc mill and could program it as a job sequence. Even cranking handles you can get into a rythmn and knock them out fairly rapidly once youve setup initially...
If you wanted them all the same, but done rapidly you could make a fixture up which clamps to the table and locks the tube in to a known position, traverse to the position and repeat. It could be as simple as a bit of pipe as a guide fixtured onto the table, a quick release pipevice and a stop bolted into a teeslot. I bet it'd work out quicker than sawing them all in with a holesaw. Especially if you had access to a cnc mill and could program it as a job sequence. Even cranking handles you can get into a rythmn and knock them out fairly rapidly once youve setup initially...
