Log Splitter: weld sequence?

[Debs.]

Hiya!
Making steady progress on my splitter project; despite my 9" grinder burning-out after only a couple of hours use (Lidl rubbish!)

I`ve cut the parts for the fixed end of the hydraulic-ram: 4 x rectangle box sections cut and fitted to reinforce the web of the 'I' beam and two 15mm. thick plates (as yet to have the 44mm. holes bored for the ram mounting pin) to weld to the sides of them and where the 15 mm plates meet the caps of the I beam.....I hope the pictures explain better than that paragraph!

Questions: I want to weld the rectangle tubes first; where they contact the I beam web and caps, and then weld the plates on the outside of the whole.....I`m thinking about reducing distortions; I plan to tack-first and then weld in runs.....is there any particular (best) weld order/direction to minimise distortions: would it be better to balance the sides a weld-run at a time on each side?

Which size rods would be favourite (I have that BIG old 200 A 90/60 OCV Quasi-arc): I have 2.5 mm. and 3.2 mm. in 7018`s and 1.5 mm., 2.5 mm. and 3.2 mm. in 6013`s.

Do you think I`ve made the 'fit' of the rectangular tubes too tight (they are a light 'tap' fit); would they be better with a bevel ground on them all`round for better penetration?

Sorry to ask so many Q`s; bit of a beginner-girl with this 'heavy stuff'.

 

[Welderpaul]

Looks like you have a good fit-up there Debs. I wouldnt forsee any major problems with distortion in what you plan to weld - they are all quite short runs, and as long as you place some decent tacks in stategic places, it shouldnt move when you weld it up. Normally whatever weld you run on one side, you would run the opposite weld in as quickly as possible on the opposite side, this would reduce any 'pull'. Just be careful when you weld up the fillet at the junction between the top of the I beam and the inside of the 15mm plates. The plates will both want to pull inwards making the gap too small for the ram. Cut a piece of box section just slightly bigger than the finished gap size and wedge it in (tack if required). Once you weld it up, knock the box section out, and it should be the correct size. Big hammer to perform any minor adjustements. The only place i would bevel is the end of the 'I beam' where the box section finishes flush. Probably not an issue of you don't - but a better job if you do.
I would go with 3.2mm rods - 7018's , but 6013's would be fine.

How thick is the wall on the rectangular box section?...

The edges of the 15mm plates are screaming out to have a nice arris ground on the edges to stop you cutting yourself!

Hope that helps

 

[Hitch]

Someone has been keen with the measuring

The web stiffeners, as Paul has mentioned, grind a slight chamfer on the outermost face, where it is welded along the edges of the beam flange(cap as you call it). Allows for better penetration, and less weld to grind off to fit the 15mm cheek plates.
The one nearest the back, id be inclined to push it in from the end 5mm, rather than being flush, then you have room to weld with minimal grinding/preperation needed.

 

[Debs.]

Hiya Paul,
Thanks for the reply and evaluation; `very welcome!

The rectangular tubing has a wall thickness of 4.6 mm.......I planned on 'prettying' all the edges of the two 15 mm. side-plates with rounding and radius corners once I`ve bored the 44 mm. holes for the ram-mounting pin (before any welding).
I thought the finish painting would be better without sharp edges to 'thin' the surface tension when applied.....not mention the skin-ripping risks.

Off to Lidl in the morning to try get my money back for the grinder, then along to buy a better quality one from Screwfix or Toolstation: `hopefully that`ll last longer than the still-smoking Lidl one!

 

[Hitch]

Not wanting to turn this to a grinder thread, id reccomend Hitachi 9" grinders, nice and light, but plenty of power, and last for years, even in our workshop.

 

[FRANKIE BOY]

Hang on a min. that fit up is toooo good....... all said in before comments is true. although I have always used Makita. ( each to their own........ ) you could teach a few monky fabricator / welders a thing or two about fit up..... brill........ I would only add that a preheat of 150 ish would alow the tacks to take really well ( any heating torch may do be it propane and air .. just hot to the touch...... ) and I was always taught to do the root / first run with a 2.5mm rod to enable good root fusion. and if it is going to be subjected to many repeat uses like log splitters usually are. I favour the Bohler 7018 it is the EV50 W. the W denotes it is an electrode that can run on "AC" which your Quasi arc is.... especially as you have the higher OCV option . hope this helps . All the best Frankie........

 

[Welderpaul]

Hiya Paul,
I planned on 'prettying' all the edges of the two 15 mm. side-plates with rounding and radius corners once I`ve bored the 44 mm. holes for the ram-mounting pin (before any welding).

I'd be inclined to have the holes drilled in the plates before welding on. Suddenly becomes a big task manhandling the big lump rather than two small plates. An engineering place is likely to turn their nose up at doing it as a 'favour'...

Or are you planning on using a holesaw? Rather you than me

 

[Debs.]

I'd be inclined to have the holes drilled in the plates before welding on. Suddenly becomes a big task manhandling the big lump rather than two small plates. An engineering place is likely to turn their nose up at doing it as a 'favour'...

Or are you planning on using a holesaw? Rather you than me

Don`t worry my original 'holesaw' idea is clearly a non-starter; so, tomorrow I`ll be taking those 15 mm. thick side plates along to a machine shop* and have the 44 mm. dia. holes bored 'before' I weld the plates onto the splitter.

I hope an appreciative and respectful chat to the head-machinist may get the boring done (while I wait) for a 'cash' price.

 

[Hitch]

Anything more that £10 would be cheeky i reckon

 

[Debs.]

Many thanks for the advice and help; Paul, Hitch and Frankie
I`ll keep the forum updated with progress.....`having fun with this project: much better than sitting worrying about Pig-Flu.

 

[^neo^]

I hope an appreciative and respectful chat to the head-machinist may get the boring done (while I wait) for a 'cash' price.

Got all sorts of thoughts running through my head now

Top work so far though

 

[runnach]

I've nothing to add to what has already been said, apart from, it certainly look the Biz Debs, you splitting Giant Red Woods??

 

[scarecrow]

Nice looking work Debs
have you read through this tread I think your i beem looks a little light for the size of ram

 

[Debs.]

Anything more that £10 would be cheeky i reckon

Well, as far as getting the 1½" and 1¾" holes bored there was bad and good news:
I went to the (previously mentioned) 'unfriendly' welding/fab. shop and they wanted £10 per hole and a £60. set-up fee; on a 1 week 'turn around' (Gulp!)....I thanked them for their time but (honestly) said that`d be far-too expensive for me at the moment.

So, purely on the off-chance, I tried a large engineering business where they do civil steelwork projects: made myself known to the head-machinist and explained I`m a hobby metalworker and described what I`m making and then he called down the chief (from the carpeted bit) and they said it`d be no-problem at all to punch out the 4 holes while I waited. (total cost of £5.)

Their punch press was so large, they said they`d have to hunt about to find punch and die sets small enough for my job.
Wonderful to watch such a BIG machine at work....to see the "yes we can" attitude is still around and also to have the job-done for such a bargain price: as they say these days "I`ve had a result"

 

[Hitch]

Thoose places that have a minimum charge/setup costs are rediculous.
Couple om mins to change a punch, write a programme, 10 seconds per hole, bet it was done in 10 mins

 

[runnach]

I reckon you have just been unlucky with your first port of call Debs, majority of places around my neck of the woods are only too happy doing the odd wee bit for beer tokens.

 

[Rick]

Don`t worry my original 'holesaw' idea is clearly a non-starter; so, tomorrow I`ll be taking those 15 mm. thick side plates along to a machine shop* and have the 44 mm. dia. holes bored 'before' I weld the plates onto the splitter.

I hope an appreciative and respectful chat to the head-machinist may get the boring done (while I wait) for a 'cash' price.

Screwfix sell bosch "bimetal" hole saws.

I drill around 10-20 holes in 3mm thick stainless steel plate with 1. Use cutting fluid and a slow speed in a pillar drill, it'll fly through the mild steel.

 

[Stuggi]

Yeah, them hole-saws are really good, if it's standard steel they never wear out as long as you go slow and use a lot of cutting fluid. Then again, a can of cutting fluid costs as much as a small Morse saw, so...

 

[ghound]

debs, stop farting about with single blade splitters ! You have the right size hyd cylinder to make a proper splitter. Don't get hung up on welding procedures, weld the fecker as hard as you can so it wont break, over engineer the whole lot so as it won't bite you back.
If your going to run it off a tractor do it on the horizontal, and push the wood through the blade, let it fall out the other side. When a pile gathers up, drive forward a few feet.
Mines not perfect, but it has a 18' blade, and it will fill 2 one ton builders bags per hour with ease.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71l9W_TBoVo

 

[Archie]

ghound yours looks great but how does it fare on big rungs? I've got a whole load of 3 and 4 foot diameter trunks that need splitting and I'm not sure yours would be as good as my vertical one for these. Apart from anything else I'd have to heft the things onto the table! My guess is yours is great for splitting large numbers of uniformly round and unknotted bits of wood but wouldn't be as good for the large hunks of trunk that I end up splitting. Am I right or wildly wrong!?