Plasterboarding ceiling joints, when panels meet end on.

[brightspark]

[

So what do you buy your wire/cable in then
Sorry just couldn't resist

theres allways one wood and materials imperial cable metric fitted kitchen units etc metric. only use meters and milimeters .centimeters are for women sowing .weights by imperial apart from 50 and 25 kg bags partly use both

 

[Barking Mat]

I'm not getting updates on posts......

@brightspark , 30 cms , 12 inches to 15 inches (40 cms) on screw spacing on plasterboard

@Shedendman , most are staggered, honest.

@8ob Artex? Got friends in south Wales, who bought a house, no an artex cathedral! God damn horrendous, every light switch and plug socket had a 30cm (12" brightspark) , reveal around it. The ceilings! Ugh! Truly horrendous!

The previous owner of our place, liked mixing up cement render suitably strong for a nuclear power station. At some point in his retirement, felled a tree into his head, and lost the plot, completely.

When we bought the house 3 doorways he'd walled up. Made things fun.. They lived in one room, which was normal here up to the 70's...

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

My mate is a plaster and has been for 30+ years...he taught me to do a descent job in 10 minutes...took one look at my Wickes trowel and declared he wouldn't use that to cement render!

He recommended a Marshall "worn in" trowel...made all the difference.

He was saying in the old days the apprentice would wear in the new trowels doing the bonding...but now you can buy them.

Was about £45 from Screwfix....worth every penny...well was until my builder mate stole it off me!

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

View attachment 221999 View attachment 222000 As per title.

I thought I was done jointing and sanding, but, no.

Apparently, I can go get more podge.... Damn!

The future kitchen ceiling needs doing, and as I can't afford to employ anyone, it's yours truly...

It's only 55m2. 90% of the plasterboard is up, the remaining 10% can wait as there's a temporary staircase going into the future bathroom. As the back shed flooded over winter.

Where the plastetboard panel meet longitudinally, ok, I can do them... Tape and podge, sticky bandage more specifically.

Where the short ends meet, what do I do?

I've been told you use that paper stuff, and sand it down flatish, if I do this it will probably bug me for the rest of my life every time i look at the ceiling. View attachment 221999 View attachment 222000

Just spent 45 minutes trawling the tube, no help.....

Thoughts please folks.

If I post a thread it's because I want your advice. Not for fun. Well except the Welders Arms.....

Learn to plaster.

Ffs I'm not even in the same thread. 45...



14...

 

[brightspark]

My mate is a plaster and has been for 30+ years...he taught me to do a descent job in 10 minutes...took one look at my Wickes trowel and declared he wouldn't use that to cement render!

He recommended a Marshall "worn in" trowel...made all the difference.

He was saying in the old days the apprentice would wear in the new trowels doing the bonding...but now you can buy them.

Was about £45...worth every penny...well was until my builder mate stole it off me!

I use marshaltown and tyzac wore them in myself on the belt sander and there perfect had them years and still are but there old hat now u use stainless steel much better than the older ones and are more flexible refina superflex is good stuff https://www.google.co.uk/search?sou...d3Mtd2l6sAEG&sclient=psy-ab#spf=1586383183487

 

[Barking Mat]

Thanks folks, I'll post some photos as I Fu@k things up!

Then I'll just sand it down, repodge til I go insane!

Won't take long, ha ha ha.....

 

[willie.macleod]

@barking mat as others have said use the self adhesive scrim tape, a worn trowel will help if you have one but the one thing I will add is that if you have to do any significant amounts of sanding you are doing something wrong. Shouldn't need a power sander really. It is far less work to do multiple light passes than splodge on a huge amount of plaster and sand it back. Go for 3 very light passes as an aim and a tiny bit of sanding any high spots.

 

[Matchless]

when I did some dry lining converting the first floor offices to flatlets above my old workshop I used a 10" wide stainless spreader and a corner trowel, for the corners, second coat was needed to fill in the shrinkage when it dried and sunk a bit, minimal sanding, looked ok, painted magnolia, what other colour is there for rental?

still have that spreader, handy for car body filler, saves using a front number plate!

 

[Barking Mat]

@willie.macleod , wise words... I am Mr Podge!!!!

@Patrick Gill , only got a 6" bodywork spatula and a hawk.... Haha!

 

[Nomad]

Before starting, gently run a scraper over the joints to make sure all screws are below the surface.
Plastering ceilings isn't easy - suggest you rule that out unless you can get great results when you plaster walls.
Next best option is buy a wide plastering blade (very wide flexible scraper), then tape the joints (paper or scrim tape, opinions vary), apply a wide band of "superfine" filler, leave to dry then sand flat. Taping is common in USA & Europe, maybe check there for you-tube guides?
Paint with whitewash ( watered down white emulsion - MUST be matt, not silk)
Flaws show depending where the light is coming from so get a pencil - go around marking faults (early morning, late afternoon, and at night with electric light on),
Fill & sand any faults, repeat.

 

[rtcosic]

As @Patrick Gill, @Nomad and others have said.
Buy the wide blade and internal and external corner tools. Buy premixed filler.

No 3 son and I replaced all the drywall on walls and ceilings of his entire house. My wife used Youtube guides to teach herself how to do the tape and fill and did the lot - then painted it. Once mastered she said it was easier than icing cakes!

 

[cheb]

FWIW from some who doesn't fuss about whether their walls and ceiling are millpond flat. Screws every 150mm, especially on ceilings. Stagger the joints. Premix compound is OK, but it dries rather than setting so it takes much longer than powder mix. I use/d a plasterers float with the edges worn by an angle grinder.

Horror of horrors, you can see some of the joints and where the screws are on the boards I've taped. That has it uses when you want to put up shelves or fix things to the studs.

 

[gaz1]

someone did a workshop sanding the whole ceiling up using a hand sand on a pole

i cant find the post

but his mrs was using it for dog training

 

[cheb]

I've only ever used a pole sander. It encourages you not to slather the muck on, only to have to remove it manually.

 

[Barking Mat]

Ok folks, giving it a try, appreciate this camera is a bit pants...

Bit to the right was harder, as it's where someone put their foot on the plastetboard from above....

 

[Barking Mat]

Closer....

 

[gaz1]

what are you using to fill it ?

a plaster float

if you are put material on the float near edge float it down

to feather it even more goe as flat as the board say 1-3mm tilted and float toward the diped edge in a 1/4 circle and then do other side

that will really get it thin for you and less sanding needed

note the mixture is thin

speed is used due to it being thinly mixed

1st coat puts it on
watch float action
2nd is a 30 degree angle on float which cuts excess material off
watch float
finish float is very close to board edge abouy 1-3mm off flat for a nice flat edge

 

[willie.macleod]

Is there tape on the joints? Can't see any from the photos. If its premixed compound you are using it may be slightly harder to feather out at the edges than your own mix. You are getting the job done anyway so good on you.

 

[Barking Mat]

Yep, all scrimmed, just experimenting..

My weapons of choice, well all I've got...

 

[Barking Mat]

Quick beer break....

Going better, apart from that second joint earlier.

And a lot quicker than I expected, definitely getting better at this.... Erm.....

Whoever said use a bigger spatula, thanks, makes one help of a difference!