brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 39,310
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
www.google.co.uk/search?q=osmo+oil+exterior&oq=osmo+oil+exterior&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.0.13353.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0.TUAo30JJ_FI[/URL]
www.google.co.uk/search?q=osmo+oil+exterior&oq=osmo+oil+exterior&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.0.13353.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0.TUAo30JJ_FI[/URL]
use osmo oil far superior to yacht varnish and doesn't flake I just coated 4 new oak doors with it https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=o...0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0.TUAo30JJ_FIToday, ive stripped the paint off the original timbers (the uprights at the sides)
Under the paint was a layer of bitumen type stuff, direct to the wood.
Ive got all but a residue of it off, and would now like to varnish the wood with the best clear varnish that i can lay my hands on (retail, not military!)
I assume the small amount of residue in the grain of the wood wont be a huge issue?
Varnish -
I see "yacht" varnish advertised - is this just varnish with the word "yacht" added, or is it something special?
Any recommendations? I just want a clear, pref. satin finish.
use osmo oil far superior to yacht varnish and doesn't flake I just coated 4 new oak doors with it https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=o...0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0.TUAo30JJ_FI
That will work and I can't see any problems.Slow on updates - pretty much finished sanding the oak, and have almost finished stripping the original (structual) timbers.
A couple of new (freud) blades for my radial arm saw should turn up today (rip cutting and cross cutting)
I have no table on the saw at present (its been out of action for a while) - i see all sorts about making fancy tables, but im thinking, for this job, all im doing is ripping some rebate, and then cross cutting some tennons. I cant think i need a steel re-enforced table, etc?
A question -
Fixing the uprights of the frames to the original upright structual timbers - i was thinking i should drill through, and use stainless screws, to screw the oak frame to the original timbers? Ill do it where the glass will cover the screw, for a hidden fixing.
Is that the right idea?
I missed the groove question - too busy thinking about fancy log burners : /
I dont think itll be too much of an issue. The room has no front on it at the moment, and the rain generally does not even wet the ground directly in front of the concrete.
Ill put a slant on the slate, but if i start trying to cut a drip line thing into them, i think ill just be risking stuffing up the whole job! The risk benefit is just too far out for me.