what dia stainless bar can i vice bend with no special tools

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I used this on 6mm ss and for tight bends I used a bit of mild steel with a 6mm hole drilled off center as a form

Essentials Lever Tube Bender 6, 8 & 9mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Bends 6, 8 and 9mm copper pipe. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[premmington]

I used this on 6mm ss and for tight bends I used a bit of mild steel with a 6mm hole drilled off center as a form

Essentials Lever Tube Bender 6, 8 & 9mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Bends 6, 8 and 9mm copper pipe. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Brake pipe bender... Got one (Record one).

 

[premmington]

I was actually quite chuffed when I ‘invented’ that! Mr Remmington ****** on my chips putting that link up

I made one - from broken 3/8ths socket adapters - welded together on a plate - fit differing sized 3/82 sockets to get the radius I want.

Nice to have a jig - for repeat work - you can leave a marker pen mark and make loads of the same thing. If you know what I am weakly trying to explain?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Brake pipe bender... Got one (Record one).

Yup. Did the job. Protested a bit but I was bending 2 6mm stainless rods at a time

 

[premmington]

Yup. Did the job. Protested a bit but I was bending 2 6mm stainless rods at a time

View attachment 366396

Record one I got does not really bend pipe "tight enough"...

These will -

Laser Brake Pipe Bending Pliers | Halfords UK

Shop the latest at Halfords UK

www.halfords.com

Tool of choice...

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Record one I got does not really bend pipe "tight enough"...

These will -

Laser Brake Pipe Bending Pliers | Halfords UK

Shop the latest at Halfords UK

www.halfords.com

Tool of choice...

That with a big ring spanner over the bar gave be some nice tight repeatable joints. Had to improvise.

 

[gaz1]

1mx 500mm x 3mm stainless steel slit cut with grinder then vice on floor and body weight bent it as vice was on the floor and i didnt want hammer marks on it

 

[maroon]

That my friend is the difference in pride in your work , and knocking out something that '' will do ''.
Especially if theres a few of the same bends on a job , once you let one bit of twd [ that will do] into your workshop ,,, it spreads .

I often tell people ,,,
Im upping my standards ..

Up yours

There's a thing though. You could have the best pipe benders in the world. But that doesn't mean you can't get the job done with a bit of sand. Of the same standard.

Just less chance of it going wrong with specific tools for the job then having to redo or alter things. But you'll get there in the end.


Like you could heat every stiff nut and bolt. But I'll always try a scaffolding bar first.

 

[tom2207]

There's a thing though. You could have the best pipe benders in the world. But that doesn't mean you can't get the job done with a bit of sand. Of the same standard.

Just less chance of it going wrong with specific tools for the job then having to redo or alter things. But you'll get there in the end.


Like you could heat every stiff nut and bolt. But I'll always try a scaffolding bar first.

No point in being strong in the arm


and weak in the head .

 

[BarrieJ]

There's a lot of spring in stainless steel, using 8mm round, bent cold, I struggled to get a tight 90 degree without it getting ugly.

 

[Screwdriver]

Last time I needed to make a couple of dozen repeatable bends, I knocked up a little jig.

Not pretty but it worked and you could scale it up. Hammering SS will work harden it in no time. You need to do one smooth continuous bend.

Length is the key issue. The longer the workpiece (or bending handle) the easier it is and the thicker you can go. Up to the strength of your workbench/vice...

 

[Ruffian]

12 mm dia in stainless is pretty mighty for an exhaust hanger , is it shipping or earth moving your into ,, , 8 or 10 you will do with no bother at all ,,, make a jig and bend it with a bar and you will get good repeatable bends .

Nowt but when it has sizeable bits hanging off it I don't want it to fail.
Mug for scale.

 

[tom2207]

Nowt but when it has sizeable bits hanging off it I don't want it to fail.
Mug for scale.

View attachment 366415 View attachment 366416

have you tried breaking a lump of 8mm bar ,,, as a rough guide look at the lifting capacity of 6mm chain links ,, and work from there ,,, how thick is the wall on the exhaust ,, its all a balancing act , but 8mm stainless is getting serious

 

[Ruffian]

have you tried breaking a lump of 8mm bar ,,, as a rough guide look at the lifting capacity of 6mm chain links ,, and work from there ,,, how thick is the wall on the exhaust ,, its all a balancing act , but 8mm stainless is getting serious

Yep deal with stainless in the motortrade and dairy industry.
I just love overkill.
Or do it in hollow tube as whatever fits the exhaust hanging rubbers better.

 

[tom2207]

Yep deal with stainless in the motortrade and dairy industry.
I just love overkill.
Or do it in hollow tube as whatever fits the exhaust hanging rubbers better.

Im the king of overkill ,,, you could anchor a 50 ft yacht on 10mm comfortably ,,, but its nice not to have to go back and fix things , just do it once properly and it stays done.

 

[not done it yet]

I would try with my CZ metal bender. Great little bender for all sorts of things. It says up to 3/8” steel rod, so it should cope with 8mm stainless I would think.

There are lots of small metal benders out there. No need to lower yourself to thrashing with a hammer, if doing the job regularly. Personally, I would even use mild steel on a stainless exhaust - 8mm will take years to rust through and may be a better material mechanically?

 

[premmington]

I would try with my CZ metal bender. Great little bender for all sorts of things. It says up to 3/8” steel rod, so it should cope with 8mm stainless I would think.

There are lots of small metal benders out there. No need to lower yourself to thrashing with a hammer, if doing the job regularly. Personally, I would even use mild steel on a stainless exhaust - 8mm will take years to rust through and may be a better material mechanically?

I replace a lot of exhaust hangers on customers cars.

Something I like making - bend them up - fit washers on them and tack them on - rubbers don't move sideways.

I always make them out mild steel - 6mm or 8mm - mig them on exhausts in situ.

Awkward to fit ones - I have even threaded the end and added another washer and nut to aid fitting.

My Dad used to make them out of thin wall pipe sometimes and flare the ends with "bubble flare" so they sat in the rubbers OK.

 

[bricol]

Personally, I would even use mild steel on a stainless exhaust - 8mm will take years to rust through and may be a better material mechanically?

The 8mm might take years - but the joint to the stainless won't, and will be more liable to crack, especially under heat cycles and being flexed around - it tears around it.

 

[bricol]

I've used 8mm and 10mm bar, whatever I've got, to make hangers. clamp in vice, stick a length of pipe over the end, bend it as required. If I can't get a tight enough bend, the welder comes into play.

If the hanger has a bigger hole in, I tack a section of thin wall pipe over it.

I too have also used washers to keep things in the right place.