123hotchef
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See. You have already managed to justify the purchase.
i sure have but they aint cheap! nd i dont use them that often, are the festool and makita interchangable
See. You have already managed to justify the purchase.
I use saxon blades. 30 notes for a 24 48 and 60 tooth. Cheap enough to swap out reguarly
Dont forget there multitool blades.You git. That set off a browse of the Saxton site looking at their 85mm blades. Not a bad price though. Two HSS, one diamond & one TCT for £24.
Yup. And triton I belive.i sure have but they aint cheap! nd i dont use them that often, are the festool and makita interchangable
Yes there are blades designed for that cut but of course the top layer of the ply will be grained, cut across the grain and a ragged edge is more difficult to avoid.
There are also variants in the quality of ply which has an impact on the cut.
One trick is prior to cutting, Stanley knife cut through the top layer on the cut line, this reduces the chances of it ripping.
Ive found its usually the quality of the plywood. The cheap stuff does splinter....good quality Marine ply doesnt but its about £80 a sheet for 12mm...
Speed of cut makes a difference too, it's all too easy to try and get the job quickly but going slowly and letting the blade do it's job can make a difference. With TCT blades they will still cut when they are blunt, I've got an old cheap table saw that I was given, it always seemed to cut ok but the thermal cutout would stop it quite often. I put a new blade in and it transformed it.
I use an 80t blade on my big mitre saw, when cutting kiln dried oak the finish is so good it is smooth to the touch.
I remember seeing some kitchen cabinets on Grand Designs where the layers of the plywood were an exposed feature so I can only assume that must have been a much better grade of ply.
Finer blades etc all help but the problem is you are cutting against an unsupported edge.
One option is to put the good side down so that the ply supports the break out. Of course you will have one ragged edge.
If you need two good edges it's more difficult
One option is stack the ply or use a top sacrificial layer to support the top edge.
Some industrial saws for cutting ply and the like have a small circular blade that cuts through the top layer (just a mm or so) in front of the main saw blade to prevent break out.
You can achieve a similar effect by taking a light cut (a few mm) in line with the cut. Then set the blade as normal and carry out the main cut. Takes twice as long though.
You could try saws with counter rotating blades, but I have no experience of them and think they might be a bit of a gimmick
Might be the adhesive, doesn't grip as good as it should on Makita strips.Swear the mak strips shrink on the rail too.
ha ha good idea! double their life for freeMight be the adhesive, doesn't grip as good as it should on Makita strips.
I have ripped them off and moved slightly outwards when I needed to replace but was out of a spare one.
Used spray glue which seems to hold better than original adhesive.