SIP Migmate 130 problems

  1. shiggi10 Member

    Posts: 17
    Have just found this forum and think its brilliant! I've had a quick search and couldn't find the answer to my question so hope you can help.

    I have just bought a Migmate 130 turbo and decent sized co2 bottle off a friend for £50. Not a bad price I thought although he mentioned something maybe up with it. I had a play before I bought it and it worked fine. However I came to use it in anger for the first time this weekend and it worked fine for about 5 minutes before it looses an nice constant arc and starts to pulse ( prob 2 / 3 times a second???).
    I don't think its wire feed ( I maybe wrong) as this is fine when feeding not under arc and the prob happens after 5 minutes and goes away when left. The earth all seems ok so I'm stumped! Does anyone know if this is a common prob? Is it expensive to fix? He's a decent mate and will have the welder back if so!

    Really hope you can help, I thought I had cured my woeful years of a tiny migmate welder and naff wire feed!
  2. malcolm

    malcolm Bob the builder

    Posts: 8,385
    Bedford UK
    Welcome to the forum. Sounds like it might be wire feed to me. I recall someone else mentioning a similar sounding issue with a SIP 130 though his was worse:

    It's possible the resistance is building up as the tip gets hot and causing whatever is going wrong to go wrong more badly. As an experiment it might be worth seeing if using the next tip size up works (ie a tip marked 1.0mm if you are using 0.8mm wire).
  3. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

  4. Silas (son of Silas)

    Silas (son of Silas) In need of restoration.

    My 130DP is getting hammered at the moment and doesn't do that, so perhaps there's something amiss? I also don't have any issues with wire feed (touch wood) although over tightening is way, way too easy on SIP machines.
  5. weldequip Member

    Posts: 5,074
    You will probably find that the top tensioning arm is screwed all the way down on the bottom feed roller?
    The 'pulsing' you describe is an inconsistant wire feed - caused by the very poor feed set up on those things; no matter how much tension you put on the bottom feed roller it just keeps slipping, causing poor wire feed resulting in nice smooth runs one minute, with an annoying 'spit & fart' in the middle?!
  6. shiggi10 Member

    Posts: 17
    Hi guys! Thanks for the response. Had a look and yes the tensioner is wound in all the way. I think I'll take it all apart this weekend check how easy the wire is to feed etc and let you know how I get on.

    Thanks again

  7. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Check that you have a liner in the swan-neck, this is a spring like the main torch liner. Mine was missing and fitting one made a difference!
  8. shiggi10 Member

    Posts: 17

    xmas and a broken arm have slowed me down somewhat but i have finally got round to having a look at getting my welder working again!!!

    I have changed the tip, liner and put a huuuge earth clamp on, the swan neck liner is there and I am still having problems.
    I still can't strike a consistent arc as I get this pulsing effect, and big blobs of weld with no penetration ( as the wire feed stops as soon as it gets going). I have watched the wire feed whilst this is happening and it is very erratic. The force required by hand to stop the wire feeding as it come out of the nozzle is very low oh and the wire feed is wound all the way in ( with a bolt in it too to provide more force - if i wind it off the wire feed is useless!

    What else can I do? Is it worth changing the rollers? How much are they roughly? Remember I haven't bought the welder yet and can hand it back to my mate, but at £50 its a bit of a bargin if it just needs a part for a tenner!
  9. weldequip Member

    Posts: 5,074
    Hang on to your 50 quid & put it towards a new one! The problems you are experiencing are just what I have been banging on about for month's with the SIP wire feed - nothing you can do other than change the whole feed unit/gearbox, and that will start acting up after a while.
  10. shiggi10 Member

    Posts: 17
    Thanks for the fast response!

    Have told my mate and hes happy to take it back.

    Right then any recommendations on a nice robust and reliable welder? I want it mainly for car body work and some light (3-5max) mm fabrication. I'd say I have a budget of about £250.

    I have been looking through machine mart, why are the blues one more expensive for the same performance... 151TE vs 151TEB ( £25 more) and is it worth paying extra to get a 'professional / industrial' spec 160T.


  11. weldequip Member

    Posts: 5,074
    The only real difference between the blue & red models is the casework!
    The 160T are a cracking little set for the money & I've sold shed loads with only one fault to memory. That model is gas only & designed to run on larger, refillable cylinders (not supplied) which is an extra cost drawback but, in the long run, you will save on expensive disposable canisters.
  12. TA Daddy New Member

    Posts: 4
    TA Daddy

    I am the other person in your link, I got a suggestion on the forum to push all the button several times to see if that helps (the button contact may be dirty) so I did that now I have Sparks. I read link from dave21478 about chucking the wire feed in the unit and installing a 12 v battery charge to power the motor and install a 12 v motor control from Maplins.... I would be interested in getting more information on this conversion as my wire speed control knob is broken off flush with the unit. So I either need to replace the speed control or do this conversion.

    I'll see if I can find the thread for dave21478 I think it was from 04-08-2008 but I am new to these internet forums.

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