Yes of course there is a seal in the pump head. There is a few or it will leak.Is there a seal though? seems they are magnetically driven, or at least that is what the bumf from them states.
Ok, I know there will be seals between the casing sections but I was thinking you were meaning shaft seals. Anyway I suppose we will just have to wait and see what the issue is.Yes of course there is a seal in the pump head. There is a few or it will leak.
I'll go for drive.
All the Simaco pumps I've had apart have had a brass turbine on a keyway directly on the shaft from the armature of the motor.
Mine is as well.All the Simaco pumps I've had apart have had a brass turbine on a keyway directly on the shaft from the armature of the motor.
No idea really as on eBay, Tecarc are selling a motor/pump unit and the model number, when looked at on Simaco site, suggests it is magnetic driven. I would imagine that is the same model pump in the cooler so......So is it direct drive or magnetic coupling? makes a fair difference in diagnostics.
No idea really mine is direct drive but the pump/ motor that tecarc
Mine is as well.
No idea really as on eBay, Tecarc are selling a motor/pump unit and the model number, when looked at on Simaco site, suggests it is magnetic driven. I would imagine that is the same model pump in the cooler so......
On the drawing you posted item 7003 is a shaft seal. It's rubber inside a stainless case iirc. The motor shafts are quite often a baker lite type material that's very smooth and rotates quite easily inside the seal. This seal is the one I've swapped out a few times when the pump has been leaking at the back.Ok, I know there will be seals between the casing sections but I was thinking you were meaning shaft seals. Anyway I suppose we will just have to wait and see what the issue is.
My money is on flow restriction still.
Do you want to try my torch? It's only 4mtrs but it will give you an indication of whether the cooler is working properly. My cooler has exactly the same pump as yours so in theroy you should get exactly the same flow rate I do with my torch. You cover the postage costs and return it next week and I'm happy for you to have it and give it a whirl.I did try pressure testing while steadily increasing flow restriction to rule out pressure collapse at no flow.
Can't say I'm not trying. All in the interests of forum research as if it doesn't change it's ways pretty soon it's going back regardless.
He could remove the cap heads from the front of it and see if there is anything obvious to determine if this is the case. If it is the same as the ones I've had apart what can happen is the bakerlite motor shaft can actually fracture where the key sits in the way. This could quite possibly cause exactly what you say. A poor drive on the main gear.Well I am sticking to drive issue,