gasket999
getting there...
- Messages
- 354
- Location
- Manchester, UK
Hi everyone.
Got myself in a bit of a pickle here. I outsourced some major work on my Defender (error, should have done it myself).
It’s mostly OK, but there are two tiny spots of rust that need to be removed and filled, but it’s in a place that’s almost inaccessible without removing the body from the chassis.
I knew about it, pointed it out, was told it would be done before the body went back on… and a couple of months later I’ve found they’ve missed it. Wouldn’t trust them to go back.
I can get at it with a selection of tiny brushes and a needle scaler so I can clean to shiny metal, but I’ll be left with a 5p sized hole through the outer layer of 1.2mm steel (the inside layer will be OK) which can’t be left as it’ll be a rust trap.
It’s ideal to just clean up, fill the hole with Mig wire and linish it flat with the power file.
Except I can’t get the nozzle in there.
I’ve been reading up and have learned about creating a dam to help flood the area with gas and to turn up the flow to let me weld it with an excess bit of stick out.
But to give me a fitting chance I thought I’d pick up a narrow/tapered nozzle or one of the angled ones.
The former seem to only be a few quid, like this: Here
But the angled ones are big money even though I think they’d be perfect: see Here
My Mig is only an older Clarke 160TM (non euro torch) - does anyone happen to know if the cheap tapered Binzel nozzle would fit? Or if there’s a cheaper alternative to the expensive angled one on Wasp’s site?
I’ve now got a tig set and a stick attachment, but I’ve never used it so would prefer to do it by Mig as it’s going to be hard enough working upside down. The only alternative would be to clean to bare steel, use encapsulator (as well as the corroless rust proof primer and topcoat I’d be using anyway) and to fill the hole with a little seam sealer.
Any suggestions would be very welcome. I can’t ignore it and I’ll be keeping the vehicle for life so I don’t want to bodge it.
Thank you.
Got myself in a bit of a pickle here. I outsourced some major work on my Defender (error, should have done it myself).
It’s mostly OK, but there are two tiny spots of rust that need to be removed and filled, but it’s in a place that’s almost inaccessible without removing the body from the chassis.
I knew about it, pointed it out, was told it would be done before the body went back on… and a couple of months later I’ve found they’ve missed it. Wouldn’t trust them to go back.
I can get at it with a selection of tiny brushes and a needle scaler so I can clean to shiny metal, but I’ll be left with a 5p sized hole through the outer layer of 1.2mm steel (the inside layer will be OK) which can’t be left as it’ll be a rust trap.
It’s ideal to just clean up, fill the hole with Mig wire and linish it flat with the power file.
Except I can’t get the nozzle in there.
I’ve been reading up and have learned about creating a dam to help flood the area with gas and to turn up the flow to let me weld it with an excess bit of stick out.
But to give me a fitting chance I thought I’d pick up a narrow/tapered nozzle or one of the angled ones.
The former seem to only be a few quid, like this: Here
But the angled ones are big money even though I think they’d be perfect: see Here
My Mig is only an older Clarke 160TM (non euro torch) - does anyone happen to know if the cheap tapered Binzel nozzle would fit? Or if there’s a cheaper alternative to the expensive angled one on Wasp’s site?
I’ve now got a tig set and a stick attachment, but I’ve never used it so would prefer to do it by Mig as it’s going to be hard enough working upside down. The only alternative would be to clean to bare steel, use encapsulator (as well as the corroless rust proof primer and topcoat I’d be using anyway) and to fill the hole with a little seam sealer.
Any suggestions would be very welcome. I can’t ignore it and I’ll be keeping the vehicle for life so I don’t want to bodge it.
Thank you.