- Thread starter tomkidd
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rtbcomp
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My 3hp runs all the time and maintains a pressure of 90 psi at the receiver. You could get another 1.5 hp unit and run them both or get a bigger tank and work stop-start.
Better still, get a 3 hp machine and use that with your existing unit and have a bit of spare capacity.
I've actually run my pot at 20 psi at the receiver, but you can almost count the grains of grit as they exit the nozzle.
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You can hire all the gear needed to do the job.....The problem with media blasting is its messy very messy, so your need space, The small roll out outfits im sure would do the job but I would imagine them to be painfully slow compaired to comercial gear, If times not an issue then I cant see it matters, The big blasters have turned around 40ft lorry trailers in a few hours for me in the past for a few hundred quid on site, It would have been a no brainer for me to even have thought about doing it myself, however if times no object it could be worth a go yourself.
I know me mate pays £400 quid for each walnut blast, and prime, and they do make a cracking job....So really I think it depends on which way you pay your money..
I know me mate pays £400 quid for each walnut blast, and prime, and they do make a cracking job....So really I think it depends on which way you pay your money..
Weldingartisan
Aiming for retirement
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Guys next to my unit have just had a very fragile Lancia shell acid dipped - does no damage at all and removes everything non-metalic. W/A
rtbcomp
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For this kind of work you've got to go slow so a DIY unit is no disadvantage.
I do a lot of scooter work, small intricate parts. A unit capable of doing lorry chassis would just blow the bits away so the 10/20 gallon pots are perfect for the job.
inchpincher
2-stroke terror
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An experienced sand blaster can do very thin panels without warping or damage because they can change the media, pressure etc. Word of mouth is the way to go. I had my scooter done (west london) and the engine vapour blasted, very pleased with the price and service. Now I've got a compressor I'm gonna do it myself 
Ps. The holes in the legshields are supposed to be there!
Ps. The holes in the legshields are supposed to be there!
WouldBWelder
Welding a '66 Mustang ...
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When I got my fastback I thought I would get it media blasted - 'plastic' media blasted that is - not as heaby as shot. Anyway, in the end I decided to do it myself and bought a 3hp compressor and some grit and the media.
It's okay and you can do it but it's bloody slow, and messy. Of course, you then have to sweep all the stuff up to resuse it ...
In hindsight I should have stripped the car and got it done professionally and bugger the cost. But it's still good for the small parts.
It's okay and you can do it but it's bloody slow, and messy. Of course, you then have to sweep all the stuff up to resuse it ...
In hindsight I should have stripped the car and got it done professionally and bugger the cost. But it's still good for the small parts.
inchpincher
2-stroke terror
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Glad the J-Blast does the trick, I recently bought 300kg of it from a helpful member on here (my hatchback wasn't too happy about it though). I think using the glass beads would in effect burnish the ally (close the pores). I've heard of a place that vapour blasts then burnishs by placing the piece in a large moving tub of ball bearings... I'll try to find a link because it looks mint - but pricey!
I believe vapour blasting uses hot water vapour with glass beads +detergent. Quite gentle but specialized.
On another note I know a few scooterists who have tried these people with mixed results. I think they (surface processing) cottened onto the fact that there is 30 odd fiddley parts to a lambretta and it wasn't worth the agro. But I've heard they always have a rally car shell or two getting the works so I think it has merit.... don't know prices I'm afraid.
edit:
Here's one chap who burnish's engine cases... www.aloh.co.uk
Last edited:
loiner1965
Member
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Dont beleve me check this link http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media/walnut-shells.htm,
Jeuss the guys who do the rods only told me thats the kiddi for auto panels.......but what would I know Im only a fabber
i use walnut shells to clean my used rifle brass in a tumbler ready for reloading etc....personally i would chemical strip the body and bead blast the engine bay and under the front wings/seams on the mini....you will never cure the rust as its in the seams due to a bad design fault....repainted many a mini bodyshell and it might be easier buying a new shell
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I used to "borrow" the ultrasonic cleaning tank at work to clean my pistol cases for reloading.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Chemical dip stripping seems scary to me - no way will they get all that acidy stuff out of all the seams when they've finished. Price for a Renault 4 is about £1000 for a dip, or £2300 for dip and e-coat. So I'm doing it the hard way.
Where would you normally buy the blasting media (whichever type)? Or are there any other helpful forum members
No idea where to get the stuff.
rtbcomp
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Google Hodge Clemco aka Wolverhampton Abrasives. Also these people http://www.esska-tech.co.uk/esska_eng_s/blast_material,p1010,,14.html
seem to have a good selection, but I think they will only deliver. There is a bloke on ebay who sells the stuff too.
seem to have a good selection, but I think they will only deliver. There is a bloke on ebay who sells the stuff too.
malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Forgive the short thread hijack - do you tend to have abrasives delivered yourself? I was thinking there might be a local abrasive shop, though I guess demand isn't that high.
Back to the thread - what type of abrasive would suit tomkidd's mini best assuming he had a suitable compressor and wanted to clean off seams on panels that were of a similar thickness to (say) a Renault 4, and maybe blast some wheels?
Back to the thread - what type of abrasive would suit tomkidd's mini best assuming he had a suitable compressor and wanted to clean off seams on panels that were of a similar thickness to (say) a Renault 4, and maybe blast some wheels?
rtbcomp
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I visit the local Hodge Clemco. Deliveries tend to be by the pallet load ie 1 tonne.
A good general purpose grit is J-Blast Supafine. It's a copper slag, supposed to be used once, but you can squeeze a few goes out of it before it gets too dusty.
It's fine for steel wheels, one recommendation I had for alloys was aluminium oxide first then finish with glass beads, although I use well worn Supafine then glass beads. It gives a satin finish, you'd need to polish afterwards if that's what you want.
A good general purpose grit is J-Blast Supafine. It's a copper slag, supposed to be used once, but you can squeeze a few goes out of it before it gets too dusty.
It's fine for steel wheels, one recommendation I had for alloys was aluminium oxide first then finish with glass beads, although I use well worn Supafine then glass beads. It gives a satin finish, you'd need to polish afterwards if that's what you want.
Blasting costs
Hi guys, thanks for your comments. I have just been quoted £220... what are your thoughts?
http://www.interblast.co.uk/
He said it would be done using recycled media for the inside, the engine bay, and boot, and un-recycled for the underside.
He wouldnt go near any flat panels and just do the seams on the outside. He seems to know what he is doing.
I dont think he uses sand.
Hi guys, thanks for your comments. I have just been quoted £220... what are your thoughts?
http://www.interblast.co.uk/
He said it would be done using recycled media for the inside, the engine bay, and boot, and un-recycled for the underside.
He wouldnt go near any flat panels and just do the seams on the outside. He seems to know what he is doing.
I dont think he uses sand.
