SmartWerks
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Running where? Downhill
on the slippery slope if they let goRunning where? Downhill
LM2917N-8.It's been a while since I used one but there used to be Frequency-Voltage converter ICs that would output a voltage proportional to the frequency of pulses on the input - commonly used to build tachometers, but you could tailor the output circuitry to light a lamp or honk your horn or whatever, at a certain frequency.
LM2917N-8.
Never heard of or used them but it sounds fairly simple.
That's a crass statement!If it's a money issue then classic cars aren't for you, not being mean just pointing out the obvious.
That's a crass statement!
So you are suggesting that you shouldn't own a classic car unless you have pots of money, I have never heard anything so ridiculous in my life.
Rob has come up with a cheap workable solution to counteract the possibility of a fault occuring, a light that will warn when the engine is within a small unfavourable rev range, but as he is not willing to throw lots of money at it to get it dynamically balanced, with no guarantees of success with the vagaries of a 90 year old engine, he should not be wasting his time?
There are loads of classic and vintage vehicles driven every day that have quirks and faults that could be resolved by throwing lots of money at the problem but the owners live with it and treat it as part of the charm of owning a classic.
As a case in point I own a 60 year old tractor in which the 6V starter has a known fault of a rubber drive bush that's fails repeatedly, replacements are in short supply, cost £40 and means stripping the starter down.
I could convert the tractor to 12V electrics or have the existing 6v starter redesigned to remove the bush but my solution, which keeps the tractor original and works, is to use the starting handle whenever possible avoiding the use of the starter motor.
It works for me and cost me nowt!
Can I recommend a good background check please? Some of these types of companies have a trail of complaints.
I was just using that link for an indication of cost as they have some pricing schedule on the site, that was all.
Stueee. Crank is £800+ and the rod set is about the same. The whole car only cost a grand, so I couldn't justify the expense. I also have about a dozen spare cranks and blocks that came with the car.
Rob
Looks like a good possibility. I'll print it off and see if I can find someone at work who knows their electronics.
Thanks, Wedg1e and Maker!