No, those connectors have not been made for years.
Tweco uses a flat connector with two 0.25" spade terminals. I just ran a wire out the hole and crimped on two 1/4" connectors. I have seen others this way.
Some Tweco guns come with just a wire hanging out so you can put the correct connector on it.
The other option is too look for a matching male/female pair you can get but it will be difficult to match the hole size.
okay, to make this work effectively and, well, look nice, i need a tweco connecter on the gun, and bare wire from trigger, then just find the correct plug online.
seems easy enough.
Tweco now (Thermadyne) are great guns. My #4 is at least 30 years old ans still works great. Real heavy duty. My MiniMig is more like the ones on th hobby welders (but still good). THe other two Tweco guns, #2 and $4 I have had worked great even being very old.
and about its power, it can take 230 at 60 amps, or 480 at 30 amps, both single phase, and i cannot find a 230 volt 60 amp plug
im assuming one of the four wires is a ground
Mine takes 108A at 220 (says use a 175A breaker). It had a Crouse Hinds plug on it that I sold, used for $80 on ebay!
I use a 4-prong, oven/range plug and outlet. It is good for 50A and have a 50A breaker. I can run over 220A without tripping the breaker. I'm not building battleships here, so it is plenty of power.
Above 50A, you could look at an RV plug/socket. I think there is a 60A (I know there is a 125A one). Also, there is a 60A Hubbel twist-lock connector.
well i spoke too soon. i need 250 volt NEMA plug 15-60P and receptacle 15-60R
finally found a complete list of the plugs.
gonna have to change out the 100 amp breaker box my house currently has before i can do this.
might as well complete this project before i deal with rewiring
then i'll find another project (maybe a linde plasma cutter LOL)
either way, this one is looking easier and easier to do.
except the heavy switch on the front for low/med/high current is stuck in the medium position
i'm assuming i will need to open that up(the switch is a bunch of metal bars) and clean the mechanism
100A service, sounds like and old house Mine is only 150A but does fine.
Yes, the tweco clamp is good. I have two Lenco ones (one is a Chinese clone). I really like the Tweco/Lenco-style clamps made from solid brass.
You are going to need to open it up and clean/lube all the switches. Mine was not too bad inside as far as corrosion. Check the contactor too. It also probably has a big fan in it. Make sure it turns freely. My Airco fan rattles like crazy when it starts, will need to replace motor one of these days.
Powering up my Airco was scary. Had just seen a video of a guy who built a 220V/100A Tesla coil. I had imagined a big lightning bolt coming out of the thing I Installed a 20A breaker while testing.
Have a buddy that always stands back when i power up the Airco "That thing always scares me.." Has a Frankenstein Lab feel with the spark gaps mounted on the front.
huge fan in back with rather large cables to the motor, it does turn freely with very little effort.
luckily that was one of the first things i checked when i took the cover off.
mainly because it is critical and rather large. secondly, because it is in the back and i was looking for a wiring diagram for the plug.
anything special i should use on the switches? i suppose wd-40 might loosen the front low-med-high current switch, but doesn't sound like a good solution, or should i use it, move switch until it moves freely, and then not try to power it up until the wd-40 is evaporated?
also, where on earth am i going to find the DC voltmeter? 0-50 volts on it, and the existing one is smashed in.
WD-40 will be ok on the bushing. A real penetrating oil might be better.
Those meters show up on ebay every once in a while. Here's a Lincoln one; looks different but should work. The Miller machines use the same one. I believe they are made by Jewel Instruments and are part of their PB series in a 3 1/2" size.
yeah, mine is a GE, has two surprisingly large lugs in back that have some wires running to them
they look like the ones on some of the ESAB welders as well (not surprisingly really) but there is a chance GE may still have the part available-it's just a larger voltmeter without the dial or prongs.
okay, i think my local hardware store stocks penetrating oil. i do recall some specialty oil that freezes and penetrates, used for removing rush mainly.
really? hmmm... i'm not so sure i want to try that, it sounds really, well, flammable.
not sure i want that in a high amp machine
maybe on a small engine that needs penetrating oil
then again, if i find some acetone i may try it, will need to post results if i do
I have used things like Liquid Wrench. Worked slowly and is flammable. WD-40 barely works, IMO it is not what it used to be; seems to actually cause rust these days. Someone said it now contains kerosene that breaks down to an acid over time.
I have some lathe test pieces I sprayed with it, all rusted. Those not sprayed are better (light rust.)
Acetone evaporates very quickly. I'd mix some up, but my big can of acetone has evaporated