Please accept another shoot-down . ..Somebody should do a PHD thesis on the Facebook Lanoguard effect. For years I've been banging the drum in the JDM groups about fluid film or S50 and the dangers of rubberized coatings but always shot down by folk who insist on Waxoyling every year (followed by a 3K welding bill 5yrs after import). Now they all swear by Lanoguard which is basically another fluid film/S50.
I've mixed waxoyl and underseal 50/50 & applied with a Shutz Gun on the underside of my elderly & of course not rust-free LDV Convoy (though the van floor is surprisingly good - just don't mention the rest of it).Lanoguard followers are a little annoying, loads of people swearing by it with no reason other than great marketing and being lemmings.
Why do I say that?
I think I'm correct in saying that lanoguard has only been sold for automotive use since 2020.
The only measure of a good rust prevention product is lots of years and cars that have not rusted.
The problem is that its impossible to know whether its good or not, people raving about it are all raving about something that looks nice, is easy to put on, etc etc. I couldnt care less, I just want to prevent rust and theres no long term car based evidence for that yet.
Totally awesome marketing though, its worked really well.
PS. As unpopular as it sounds, I've had great results with Waxoyl mixed with new engine oil in cavities. I put sills on my Carlton 7 years ago and filled them with that, then used it through 7 winters and about 50k miles and no issues yet.
Waxoyl alone dries too much in time, and doesnt creep enough into the joins, but the 20/50 (or other thick oil) sorts both of those things out, while the Waxoyl gives the thick film required that cant be maintained with engine oil alone.
Yes. My uncle bought a brand new Capri 1600GT in Daytona Yellow in 1974, and had it Ziebarted after a couple of weeks. It still rusted after about four years, but this was normal back then.remember years ago you used to get cars zebarted powerwash them of then seal them .sounds good but it isnt realy its a bad idea . it seals all the water in crevices and chassis rails etc so it cant dry out and rots
May I ask why these particular oils are better than others?Second best is gear oil, or chainsaw bar oil,
They are both tenacious, more so chainsaw oil. Gear oil is more penetrating, but stinks. Very effective though.May I ask why these particular oils are better than others?
I have squirted thin oil into box sections prior to waxoyl in the past. But the oil I use is duck oil. I am working on the basis that it might soak into any crud in the bottom and soak into flange seams between the spot welds.
where do they use it?Gear oil would seem like the worst option really, it barely has any inhibitor in it since it doesn't have to deal with the byproducts of combustion like engine oils, same for anti-oxidants.
The classic museum down the road uses neat antifreeze because they can wash it out and renew it easily and it's chock full of corrosion inhibitors.