what would be a good model of MIG for Land rover 110 outrigger / bulkhead work?
I have never MIG'd before ..only stick & Gas. I'd like to errr towards good quality machine
good luck. after three patches i gave up welding my lightweight chassis and just got a galvanised one. its ALWAYS much worse than it looks from outside. You can not weld rust and finish the quest for solid steel before you decide what parts you need. also the rear tub is much easier (series anyway 110 might be slightly harder) than trying to weld upside down etc
I agree 100%. After owning Land Rovers unless they already have a galv chassis no matter how sound they look you can guarantee they will there will be rot somewhere - even if it's well hidden inside the chassis rails so they are waifer thin. Around 6 years ago I broke a E Reg 200TDi Defender as so rotten that there wasn't anything other than mechanicals worth saving. Elderly retired neighbour bought a N reg 300TDi Disco brand new and only did a token mileage yet in 2010 it got scrapped as rotted so bad. I've bought 4 brand new chassis. One was a genuine LWB item that was in paint as I wanted to modify before having it galv'd. I paint stripped and was shocked to find rust under the paint. Not just a bit but all over - this is how they are delivered to the factory and new vehicle build on them ! The other chassis I bought were galv'd and still like new years later.
This year it'll be an outrigger, next rear crossmember, then it'll be the original chassis next to either the outrigger or where you attached the crossmember that develops cracks / rots though. OK I'm a cynic but "have been there and got Tee shirt" so it makes me smile when somebody says their Land Rover chassis is sound other than a small bit
Paul H