Where I work has a 2016-ish JCB Teletruk (diesel, all hydraulic drive). Same thing - seat switch so trigger-happy you it'd cut drive so often it was maddening!No idea if it's at all similar in operation, but a place i used to work at has a rubbish little Mitsubishi one, with a dodgy seat safety switch. It randomly stops working right and you lose either the hydraulics or drive (i forget which) until you bounce the seat up and down, switch it off and back on.
Where I work has a 2016-ish JCB Teletruk (diesel, all hydraulic drive). Same thing - seat switch so trigger-happy you it'd cut drive so often it was maddening!
I dug around & found the connector & metered it to find out if it switched Continuity / to +12v / to 0v (it was +12v) & put in a link into the harness plug to fool the controls that the seat was permanently sat on .
(A new seat switch was about £300!!. Yes it's technically a safety switch - but .....)
looking at the start thread it moves back and forth but lot stearing and lift abilityFirst things first. Have you just lost motive power or is it totally dead as night? Any response whatsoever to turning the key, switching on lights etc?
I'd never messed with FL Trucks till this year. The diesel/hydraulic ones don't seem unfathomable (& I'm no engineer).I never touched an electric stacker truck - only ever owned two forklifts - one small LPG Komatsu thing and the diesel Toyota I got now (DF30 3000kg).
If its a leccy FL, & there is drive that says the battery & supply is OK.looking at the start thread it moves back and forth but lot stearing and lift ability
I have 2 of the same forklift (might be different year/model, but they're pretty much the same)
hydraulic motor does the power steering
if you still have drive most of the safety sensors must be ok, seat sensor, cover lifted sensor etc. etc.
any warning lights on the dash?
leave it turned on, pop the cover and unplug the battery... give it 5 min and then plug it back in and try again.... might get lucky
try giving it a good long charge, check each battery voltage, should all be about the same (check water level in them too)
after checking fuses/oil level there's not really much else you can do... time to call someone in
they can plug in a diagnostic computer and see exactly what's going on
I had a controller die on mine... it was £800 for a used one or £1200 for a new one but a 2 month wait, so went with the used one it's been ok since then
there's 3 controllers, one for each drive motor and one for the hydraulics, it was my hydraulic controller that died
the back plate - under where a gas bottle would go on a gas forklift comes off, 4 bolts iirc, that'll give you access to the fuses/controllers/wiring etc.
there's nothing you can really do to test the motor yourself, check the resistance in the windings and shunt but no real way to test run it, but I'd be surprised if it's a motor problem
if I think of anything else I'll post it
If it's a DC shunt motor then surely it must have brushes? Might be as simple as a stuck brush. I'd try a hammer test.
I have 2 of the same forklift (might be different year/model, but they're pretty much the same)
hydraulic motor does the power steering
if you still have drive most of the safety sensors must be ok, seat sensor, cover lifted sensor etc. etc.
any warning lights on the dash?
leave it turned on, pop the cover and unplug the battery... give it 5 min and then plug it back in and try again.... might get lucky
try giving it a good long charge, check each battery voltage, should all be about the same (check water level in them too)
after checking fuses/oil level there's not really much else you can do... time to call someone in
they can plug in a diagnostic computer and see exactly what's going on
I had a controller die on mine... it was £800 for a used one or £1200 for a new one but a 2 month wait, so went with the used one it's been ok since then
there's 3 controllers, one for each drive motor and one for the hydraulics, it was my hydraulic controller that died
the back plate - under where a gas bottle would go on a gas forklift comes off, 4 bolts iirc, that'll give you access to the fuses/controllers/wiring etc.
there's nothing you can really do to test the motor yourself, check the resistance in the windings and shunt but no real way to test run it, but I'd be surprised if it's a motor problem
if I think of anything else I'll post it
No, nothing.Does it make any noises, clicking, whirring ?
If it's a DC shunt motor then surely it must have brushes? Might be as simple as a stuck brush. I'd try a hammer test.
You could also look here, I hate paying for downloaded manuals but its a small price to pay to get the problem fixed, sometimes once you have zero'd in on the correct pay download you can find it free elsewhere with the full name as the search.
Linde Type 322, 323, 324 Forklift Model: E10, E12, E14, E15, E16, E20, E25, E30 Workshop Service Manual
This Linde Type 322, 323, 324 Forklift Model: E10, E12, E14, E15, E16, E20, E25, E30 Workshop Service Manual contains detailed repair instructions and maintenance specifications to facilitate your repair and troubleshooting.therepairmanual.com