If me.. back to basics. On mine, no amps adjustment, just the on off. So, I would press the torch switch, this opened the air valve. Air hissed happily out of the nozzle and the contactor for the transformers clacked in. Bumping the nozzle on the work started the arc and the machine hummed loudly. The air pressure cut out (the unit below the air valve in the linked pic) would cut the machine out if the air pressure was too low, and light the indicator on the front panel. There was a regulator/water trap on mine as in the one linked.
I would look at the air connection to the torch head, to make sure the flow is enough, it might have been crushed or damaged and be restricted, which could cause the overheat. After sorting the relay and checking all is working in the case, check the 'lead' to the torch. Mine had all the cables and air line in a soft sleave, strip this off and have a good look. Might be an idea to do this before buying the new torch. Also, disconnect the air connection where it enters the lead, so you can verify the airflow is good.
If your relay was OK, and the other symptoms indicate it was, the prob might be the airvalve sticking. i.e. reduced flow as well as not closing.
In your pic of the torch, the outer shroud and the electrode base seem to be OK, might you not need the new complete unit? Perhaps just the stepped sleeve which burned and the new electrode and cap.
Hope this help, pity you are not a bit closer.
Edit.Just reread your post the light should not have been flashing for the pressure cut out. Mine was either on or off. Flashing would indicate flow problems.
Hi mate.Your replies are an absolute godsend for someone like me feeling their way in the dark!Heres a couple more pics of mine:
Whats the way to test the orange valves(2 on mine next to each other)on the airline entry?also how to test the solenoid valve?mine has a regulator but its internal.You can see in the torch pic the 2 wires that lead to the switch but when I connected my meter on continuity it wasnt doing anything.As I said this would be an easy fix(the handle part of the torch is expensive considering its just a plastic tube with a microswitch).Unfortunately the electrode sleeve is not a seperate part,it comes as a complete assembly and although the electrode can still be screwed into here the spring feature(that could be felt on the tip when pushing it onto the job)is not there any more.The only reason I mentioned the method of starting the cut I thought was correct came from me reading the attached PDF(as you actually had one that worked I'm inclined to accept your method).Could you possibly give me your email address by PM so I aren't clogging down this sites storage with pics?Also do you have any thoughts on maybe converting an HF start type torch to work on this as they can be had for half the price of mine(no idea why)?
I have red all information above. Dave's input is very usefull. Unfortunatally the URL http://www.woodfieldwelding.com/ does not work last days. I am looking for a complete new torche head to make my CAR30 working. Can anybody help me with it?
Ton
As you say it looks like the link is dead.If you google woodfield welding it throws up an address and phone number in surbiton(which is where he was).Might be worth a try.I ended up selling mine on ebay as it was.I figured the cost of replacing the torch head and other bits(£150+)not worth it.