Use a few diagonals rather then just horizontals, get the diag in tension?
Adrian
if your planning on making up the frame like that and hanging timber on it then yes, it will sag.
if as said you put a diagonal in it from the top of the hinged corner and run it to the opposite bottom corner it will stop it from sagging.
just use flat welded to the outside edge of the angle so it wont disrupt the timber.
have you a reason for using 3mm angle, are you trying to hide the frame?
if not and it was me id be using 5mm if not 6mm on the wall of it tbh, but id have a habit of over engineering stuff.
put an X in each of them if it helps aesthetics.
only problem there is if you kept the cross brace they would end up looking like a pair of asterisk's..
no matter what you make up in metal that size it will sag eventually.
the timber may be light, but if you lifted all that you had to put on a gate all in one go id say its not so light.
i know it id be easier to look at a diagonal brace than a pair of sagging gates imo.
angle that size isnt dear if your buying it in the right place, dont be buying it in B&Q its dearer than gold there...
your probably not going to find too many pics of the brace on the back of a wooden infilled gate as thats not the side they want you to see.
except linseed -oil-to preserveTry this
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Best infill? Iroko don't apply finish to this wood
except linseed -oil-to preserve
Try this
40x 40 x 3 shs with 5mm x 40 flat as an inner frame welded staggered stich on external
On internal more 5 mm an exact copy but not welded in
The wood is sandwiched between the two and help secure with appropriate coach screws. Studs or similar
Can be as fancy as you like
Built correctly and well supported it don't need a brace to keep it toe and heeled
Make it fancy by using textured flat and or box
Best infill? Iroko don't apply finish to this wood
Hi really can't understand what you mean with this trying to imagine it
I understand it's hard to grasp unless you are looking at plans or have done them before via text alone
The box makes the frame outer
The flat bar ( welded on one side only) sandwiches the wood
The coach screws or welded in stud goes through the welded in flat bar through the wood and the Un attached flat bar frame works as a big backer. Then cap head nuts and lock washers secure
If you're not experienced in fabricating or hanging such a thing it's going to be challenging
There is a bit more to it than I can describe here
I've bought the flat bar to cross brace across the back both customers happy to have the bar welded in across the back so it's not visible on the front.
How do you suggest fastening the boards to the frame welded studs? Then nut them on
Iroko, harder to cut and work than steel but absolutely bullet proof. I've got a fair few planks that came from a ships deck, I've built two garden benches so far and I think they will out live me !!Try this
40x 40 x 3 shs with 5mm x 40 flat as an inner frame welded staggered stich on external
On internal more 5 mm an exact copy but not welded in
The wood is sandwiched between the two and help secure with appropriate coach screws. Studs or similar
Can be as fancy as you like
Built correctly and well supported it don't need a brace to keep it toe and heeled
Make it fancy by using textured flat and or box
Best infill? Iroko don't apply finish to this wood
Iroko, harder to cut and work than steel but absolutely bullet proof. I've got a fair few planks that came from a ships deck, I've built two garden benches so far and I think they will out live me !!
Yep take into account the fact it don't need any treatment and turns a lovely hue the perfect infill
Just offsets some of the cost it reaches is the lack of coatings and maintainance