Genius idea to use the drill press, I would have dismissed that as good in theory but it aint ever going to work in practice. Like they say necessity is the mother of inversion.So, I used the newly made grinding gadget to round out the rockers, then tack welded them in pairs. Plan was to bore all the holes out, but by experimenting on some scrap steel I found I could drill the 3/4 holes quite accurately with just a standard twist drill, so I did that.
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The 1” holes weren’t so simple, I have no 1” drill, so I used a hole saw to open them to about 7/8“ then set up my boring bar gadget in the drill press.
I was very surprised how well it all went, until the end of the second hole…..when I found by boring tool was hitting the 1/2” HSS stock I had clamped down onto.
It knocked the tip off the boring tool but no great drama, reground, regrouped, and on we went.
It‘s only a clearance hole, but I wanted it somewhere near. With inside calipers and a micrometer I could get it to a thou or two, so I did.
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I expected chattering or vibration at minimum, and the whole boring head simple dropping out of the taper at worst. So I was quite surprised it worked this well myself.Genius idea to use the drill press, I would have dismissed that as good in theory but it aint ever going to work in practice. Like they say necessity is the mother of inversion.
FTFYGenius idea to use the drill press, I would have dismissed that as good in theory but it aint ever going to work in practice. Like they say necessity is the mother ofinversioninvention.
Thank you John, it took me a while to work out what i had done wrong.FTFY
What diameter filler rod do you use? I've welded 5mm t joints with about 160amps, I did try 1.6mm but gave up and ordered some 2.4mm, that made a world of difference.I was surprised how well the tig cut into the steel, melted like butter, faster than I could add filler. Bit too much power methinks. This was on 120 amps, should have gone a bit lower, but it’s simply to keep things aligned when it’s all put together.
1.6mm rods. I think the problem is I’m just not very competent yet. The torch seems big and cumbersome, and the hefty cable/hose adds to the problem.What diameter filler rod do you use? I've welded 5mm t joints with about 160amps, I did try 1.6mm but gave up and ordered some 2.4mm, that made a world of difference.
Try a small quality torch, with soft flex hose, its amazing how much easier it is. Was like night and day for me. Wp9.1.6mm rods. I think the problem is I’m just not very competent yet. The torch seems big and cumbersome, and the hefty cable/hose adds to the problem.
I really should practise more as it’s such a nice way to weld, none of the spatter and frenzy of stick or Mig.
Put a straight rod in the chuck and check with an accurate square that the table is perfectly perpendicular to the rod. Also, the table may be flexing under the load when drilling large holes.Despite all my careful pilot drilling and clamping solidly to the drill press, the 3/4” holes all appear to be a couple of degrees out of perpendicular to the face of the work piece.
I can‘t see how it could happen.
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It’s a fairly robust old thing, but I was clamped right on the edge of the table to get my G cramps on, so maybe it did flex.Put a straight rod in the chuck and check with an accurate square that the table is perfectly perpendicular to the rod. Also, the table may be flexing under the load when drilling large holes.
After all, a drill press is not built to the accuracy standards of a milling machine.
I currently have a wp26 torch, good for 200amps. My tig unit is only 160. I nearly just hit the ‘buy’ button on a wp9 on the r-tech site, but decided to call up and ask. Good job, the only difference between the two is the size of the consumables on the end, body and cable are identical…….Try a small quality torch, with soft flex hose, it’s amazing how much easier it is. Was like night and day for me. Wp9.
I’ve had the quote, with the torch, an adaptor to switch it, a box of the right sized consumables etc etc it come to £142. Which is better than I expected having priced up the plug and play model. I could even see about making a foot pedal switch, for an experiment. I’ve just hit the ‘buy’ button.Its a ck wo 9 I have, far better than the cheapies and far smaller, than a w26. If I were looking to buy one Id look at rapid welding, then youd get genuine ck consumables too. You will also need to buy the switch and correct plug too.
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ill take some pics of mine next to a paraweld 26 for you
Buy a soft flexible sheath, to protect your new expensive torch! Guess I dont need to take pictures now eitherI’ve had the quote, with the torch, an adaptor to switch it, a box of the right sized consumables etc etc it come to £142. Which is better than I expected having priced up the plug and play model. I could even see about making a foot pedal switch, for an experiment. I’ve just hit the ‘buy’ button.
Hopefully this will turn my £700 Tig welder investment into something more enjoyable to use.
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The guy I spoke to said that I could cable tie the switch to wherever I wanted to on the torch. It gives me scope to find a comfortable position. The stock torch the welder came with has the button in a daft position, really awkward to reach. I can look into changes or updates later I reckon.Buy a soft flexible sheath, to protect your new expensive torch! Guess I dont need to take pictures now either
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