Stuff you have made today

[DAPPH]

An m8 thread for the knob
View attachment 316893
Which will become my toolpost handle. I have been looking for this peice of en24t for about 2 weeks!
View attachment 316895
Will be an excuse to try the welding magnets tomorrow to tig handle onto nut.

I ended up making several different size adaptors like that , the Dyson animal car upholstery rotary , hair removing brush runs well on an old Vax cleaner . I've got several metres in different diameters of pond water ribbed , smooth bore self supporting black flexi pipes , and made various adaptors to suit them .

 

[selectedgrub]

Round rings mentioned earlier

 

[DAPPH]

An m8 thread for the knob
View attachment 316893
Which will become my toolpost handle. I have been looking for this peice of en24t for about 2 weeks!
View attachment 316895
Will be an excuse to try the welding magnets tomorrow to tig handle onto nut.

I did that but forgot to fully tighten the nut down before deciding where to put the bar on . marked it in marker pen welded it up .. fully tightened up at three fingers tight the bar went across the work to 7 o'clock ... Back to the drawing board & angle grinder .

Another style I tried was some easy turning hex off cut nearly 2 " AF this time after facing both ends I tightened the hex down with a big spanner , re faced the bottom end to get the flat at right angles to the centre line a couple of times , marked the position , then welded a small nipple on the opposite side to give me an angle when it was in the drill vice . Tapped it through to the middle , threaded the bar then turned the top into a cone shape leaving a good 35 mm of hex below the cone put a flat on the hole & Loctite'd the bar in . It was OK most of the time .

I've now reverted to having a big double ended offset open jaw spanner that fits the securing nut the QCTP , with the smaller end being ground out to fit the tailstock securing nut . Keeping it handy by using a strong magnets glued into some plastic that's screwed the table at the RH lathe end .

 

[JMS1972]

Has that been done at work or as a hobbyist at home ?

At home, I've got a K40 style CO2 laser cutter.

 

[James1979]

At home, I've got a K40 style CO2 laser cutter.

Was that a self build?

 

[JMS1972]

Was that a self build?

No I bought one off eBay like this

Ridgeyard 40W 300*200mm CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine USB Engraver Cutter | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ridgeyard 40W 300*200mm CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine USB Engraver Cutter at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Mine was a bit cheaper!

I've added an analogue current meter, air assist and much better extraction as burning MDF is not nice Took quite a bit of time to align the mirrors but its been quite reliable up to now.

 

[James1979]

No I bought one off eBay like this

Ridgeyard 40W 300*200mm CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine USB Engraver Cutter | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ridgeyard 40W 300*200mm CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine USB Engraver Cutter at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Mine was a bit cheaper!

I've added an analogue current meter, air assist and much better extraction as burning MDF is not nice Took quite a bit of time to align the mirrors but its been quite reliable up to now.

That’s still a decent price for what it can do. I take it it’s best on reasonably thin ply?

 

[JMS1972]

That’s still a decent price for what it can do. I take it it’s best on reasonably thin ply?

They say they are 40W but the length of the tube suggests 30W really. I run mine at 9mA which cuts 3mm Ply in one pass at 9mm / sec.

You can run them harder and cut thicker stuff but that suits what I do with it and extends the tube life.

I've used it on Acrylic, Plywood, MDF, Felt, Card, paper and rubber (for ink stamps).

 

[Other Daniel]

They say they are 40W but the length of the tube suggests 30W really. I run mine at 9mA which cuts 3mm Ply in one pass at 9mm / sec.

You can run them harder and cut thicker stuff but that suits what I do with it and extends the tube life.

I've used it on Acrylic, Plywood, MDF, Felt, Card, paper and rubber (for ink stamps).

Could you post a few more photos of what you've done with it, please ?
I'm really very interested in this.

 

[James1979]

Could you post a few more photos of what you've done with it, please ?
I'm really very interested in this.

Ditto

 

[JMS1972]

Ditto

I'll make a new thread

 

[God mode restorations]

This last couple of weeks I have been replacing the completely rotten floor and beams on my 7.5t tipper. What a mess..full of mud and all sorts. Nasty job.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

This last couple of weeks I have been replacing the completely rotten floor and beams on my 7.5t tipper. What a mess..full of mud and all sorts. Nasty job.

View attachment 316980 View attachment 316981 View attachment 316982 View attachment 316983 View attachment 316984 View attachment 316985

You replacing it so there's nowhere for muck to hide?

 

[God mode restorations]

You replacing it so there's nowhere for muck to hide?

Replacing as most of it has rotten and no structural strength. Someone previous put in a false floor and insulated it. Over time it's just slowly filled up with crud

 

[Scruffywelder]

This last couple of weeks I have been replacing the completely rotten floor and beams on my 7.5t tipper. What a mess..full of mud and all sorts. Nasty job.

View attachment 316980 View attachment 316981 View attachment 316982 View attachment 316983 View attachment 316984 View attachment 316985

That thing is gonna fly along now you've got rid of all that

 

[God mode restorations]

That thing is gonna fly along now you've got rid of all that

I will when finished have added about 200 kgs in steels. But given the amount of crap I have taken out it should be all good.

 

[Kram]

This wasnt fun, my auto dark mask has decided not to darken, but continued anyway, thats my excuse!
After welding the nut was tight and getting stuck. I had a peice of m14*1.5 threaded silversteel so turned that into a crude tap, welded a shaft on it - with zero care for concentricity! Cut four slots and hardened in veg oil.
I used it straight away without thinking, untempered, and no lube. There was some crunching and chips but not on the cutting edge, but it worked.
Temptered it after to straw colour..

 

[Cuthy246]

A ghetto biltong box. Fancied some biltong for a while and in tesco found a great lump of rump steak in the reduced counter. So old pc fan, 12v power supply, cardboard box, and some aluminium tape later I have this beauty in the kitchen.

 

[Dr.Al]

I've got a project coming up that's going to involve lots of holes drilled at even spacing in a straight line. To make this quick, easy and accurate, this evening I made a chain drilling jig, based on an idea I saw in a Stumpy Nubs video for a table saw jig (but using civilised metric threads rather than imperial nonsense).

This photo shows a close-up of the fence, which has a length of M6 (1 mm pitch) thread rod epoxied in, very slightly sub-flush:

The stop block has another piece of threaded rod (actually a set screw with the hex head cut off as I didn't have any more threaded rod) glued in, but protruding slightly (with some wedges underneath to help me set the amount of protrusion just right when I epoxied it in place) so that it engages with the threaded rod in the fence and hence can only be positioned at increments of exactly 1 mm.

It (and the maple stuck on top to overlap the scale on the fence) are exactly 50 mm wide (planed to size on a shooting board) so that both sides line up with the marks on the ruler.

The T-track is unnecessary to be honest, I fitted it so I could clamp the stop and the work piece in place, but the positive engagement of the two threads means that the stop doesn't try to move and it's easy to hold the work piece up against the fence and the stop.

First test:

 

[selectedgrub]