What type of weld should i door

  1. slihp New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Im cutting rust out of my van just now, most of it is in the sills, rockers which I'm cutting patch panels and butt welding on. I have a patch on the side door that I was thinking of doing a different method. my thinking is to cut out the rust panel and cut a patch panel bigger than the patch tack weld it on the inside of the door skin and and then its a small job of filling the difference with body filler.

    like to know what yous think
     
  2. Country Joe Argoshield Dark

    Messages:
    1,424
    Location:
    Somerset - United Kingdom
    No - I think I'd butt weld it - edge to edge joins, and blend the welds in with a flap disc afterwards.
    I usually find the trickiest part is making the patch the exact same shape & size as the cut-out in the panel.

    I'm fairly sure it's not much harder than doing it your proposed way, but I've always done it the same way, so don't actually know this!
    But I do know that if I'd found it that difficult, I'd have tried it the alternative way, already!

    All the Best,
    CJ
     
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  3. hotponyshoes Member

    Messages:
    2,284
    Location:
    Somerset. Uk
    Put the new bit over the top overlapping all the rust.
    Cut through both panels at once with a 0.8mm cutting disk (or air saw/whatever weapon)
    That will give you a nice gap to fill with weld all around the panel.
     
  4. slihp New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Glasgow
    ye I have seen this technique
     
  5. kaiser Member

    Messages:
    15
    South Africa
    Especially on door skins, you have fairly long sections to weld in place and warping can become an issue. There is on the market a Joddler, joggler and it has another name, that escapes me for the moment (swaging tool! just remembered). It is made by a couple of guys, like TAMA in Denmark and I think some German companies as well. the Danish version is (or was) sold by S.I.P. in the UK, and maybe also Clarke? It is a hand held plier, with two jaws, which when pressed together, will re-cess the edge of a 1mm plate, by about 1mm and a depth of 10mm. Turn the head, and there is a built in punch, to make abut 5 or 6mm holes in the plate to be welded on top. The idea is to cut the rusty strip part of the skin, re- cess the lower part of the remaining door skin, offer a new plate up, and weld spots through the holes made at the top of the new plate. The fold makes the new plate flush with the old, straightens the skin, and the spot welds prevents heat warping from the weld. The door can be made very easily, this way. If you want, you can also full weld, but do it in small sections, to maintain the straightness. The resulting overlap on the inside will face down, so condensation and rain will run off the seam. It can be treated with paint and Vaxoil or Tectyl, and if done with care will last far better than the original did.
     
  6. slihp New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Glasgow
  7. kaiser Member

    Messages:
    15
    South Africa
    That's the boy! That is the one made by TAMA in Denmark. Well worth it! They make some other nice tools too. Mainly for pressing.
     
  8. metalmelt New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    UK
    Joggling is really the only option as this gives the repair patch some strength.
     
  9. Morrisman

    Morrisman Forum Supporter

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  10. Nick DV

    Nick DV Member

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    284
    Location:
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    I was led to believe that on car panels joddling wasn't a good idea as it has a potential to trap water/moisture and therefore a chance of rust :dontknow:
     
  11. Morrisman

    Morrisman Forum Supporter

    I use all 3 types of repair, as I was on a steep learning curve, experimenting. Joddled, overlapped and butted. I'd imagine there are more than enough water traps in the average car already, so if underseal could be applied to the rear of the patch it wouldn't be a problem.
     
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  12. Nick DV

    Nick DV Member

    Messages:
    284
    Location:
    Southampton
    I was thinking more of an outer panel where any rust appearing would be an issue.
     
  13. Morrisman

    Morrisman Forum Supporter

    The front face should be fully welded, so you'd have to have access to the back face to underseal it.
     
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  14. Nick DV

    Nick DV Member

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    284
    Location:
    Southampton
    Understand :thumbup:
     
  15. metalmelt New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    UK
    Not necessarily as I use Bilt Hamber products and you can inject them through a convenient hole as an alternative and you can spray both parts with Etchweld before welding to minimise rust.
     
  16. Country Joe Argoshield Dark

    Messages:
    1,424
    Location:
    Somerset - United Kingdom
    I've always thought that the "weld-through" etch primers would just burn off, just from the heat generated by welding them.
    I seem to have some, but I'e not used it as yet - for that very reason.

    Maybe I just don't have enough faith in those kinds of products!

    All the Best,
    CJ
     
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