Type of alloy required for making door skin

  1. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

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    Aberdeenshire (UK)
    I'm looking to replace the lower tailgate skin of my classic Range Rover with alloy, so which alloy would be best for this given that it will need to be folded over the edge of the frame?
     
  2. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    I have some if you fancy a trip to Aberdeen. Can't remember the grade, it's the grade Geoff Moss uses for making panels. Not home until the weekend. I'm also off to Clola on Saturday probably to pick up some welding gas if that is easier for you?
     
    Fintray, slim_boy_fat and eSCHEn like this.
  3. pedrobedro

    pedrobedro Man at Matalan

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    When I did my car bodywork I think the sheet I had was 1050 H14. It bends without annealing. Pretty sure it was called half hard.
     
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  4. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

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    That's very generous but the bit required is a fair size.

    @Burdekin the bit I would need is 1450 x 600mm, if you have a bit that size I'm sure we could come to some financial arrangement! :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2018
  5. CompoSimmonite Member

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    I'd consider galvanised sheet steel instead of aluminium as less change to electrolytic corrosion in the future
     
    rtbcomp likes this.
  6. piman Member

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    Oswestry Shropshire
    Hello CompoSimmonite,

    wouldn't the zinc also give galvanic corrosion?

    Alec
     
  7. zx9

    zx9 Member

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    ^^^ WHS ^^^^ as non of the lower tailgate is aluminium I would not introduce yet another steel / aluminium 'battery' there are plenty on the original car.
     
  8. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

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    740
    Location:
    Aberdeenshire (UK)
    Are you saying it might start to rust???
    DSC_0147.JPG

    My thinking was to remove the existing rusty skin, treat the frame to a good rust treatment followed by an epoxy coating then where the alloy contacts to apply a layer of adhesive tape to provide a layer between the alloy and the steel followed by a spray of wax on the internals. Does this sound like it would work?
     
    8ob likes this.
  9. zx9

    zx9 Member

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    The epoxy would help and the adhesive tape plus wax is putting way more effort into it than Rover ever did. :) I re made mine with zintec twenty odd years ago, it needs re doing now but will probably be replaced by the later ( four door) lower and all the strikers that I have stashed away.
     
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  10. AndersK Member

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    287
    Location:
    Sweden
    If it hasn't too much shape in it I would go for 5052. Harder to work but less prone to dent.
    3003 is a common alloy for car panels too, but I can't find it here so 1050 or 5052 is my choice.
     
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  11. zx9

    zx9 Member

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    A bit off topic: The original 'Birmabright' is thought by some to be close to 5052 and can be used to repair the original panels on Landies.
     
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  12. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

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    I'm getting too old to do it again so hoping a belt & braces approach would be best! :whistle:
     
  13. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

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    Not too much as far as shape goes, certainly nothing like some of the guys on here have produced.
     
  14. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    I'll PM you but the aluminium I have is H14 1050A. This is what Geoff Moss uses to build the E type fronts with etc.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  15. Fintray

    Fintray Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    740
    Location:
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    Just to say a big thank you to Mitch (Burdekin) for supplying me completely FOC with piece of alloy big enough for my tailgate. Although it's the same as Geoff Moss uses my plans for it are far less impressive! :thumbup::thumbup:
     
    galooph and Burdekin like this.
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